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Author Topic: Removing DTC for CAM/CRANK sensors.  (Read 7747 times)
cuLtivated
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« on: August 27, 2018, 10:05:37 AM »

Long story short I need to pass emissions and in order to do so I need no DTC lights on dash/codes in ecu.
I have fixed my timing and for some reason I still get the DTC for CAM/CRANK and my car wont always start right away.
I have changed both sensors and they are brand new and I am not 100% sure that they are not faulty.
I have tried to get some help but the only suggestion I received was that it might be my fuel pump as suggested.
I have yet to change my fuel pump as it keeps the car on no problem.
I am considering it being the actual microswitch in the drivers door not priming the fuel pump.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I think at this point I would just code out the DTCs to pass emissions and then findout and fix my actual problem.
Please advise, Thanks guys.
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_nameless
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2018, 11:18:00 AM »

Long story short I need to pass emissions and in order to do so I need no DTC lights on dash/codes in ecu.
I have fixed my timing and for some reason I still get the DTC for CAM/CRANK and my car wont always start right away.
I have changed both sensors and they are brand new and I am not 100% sure that they are not faulty.
I have tried to get some help but the only suggestion I received was that it might be my fuel pump as suggested.
I have yet to change my fuel pump as it keeps the car on no problem.
I am considering it being the actual microswitch in the drivers door not priming the fuel pump.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I think at this point I would just code out the DTCs to pass emissions and then findout and fix my actual problem.
Please advise, Thanks guys.
is this a joke?
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2018, 11:45:02 AM »

Long story short I need to pass emissions and in order to do so I need no DTC lights on dash/codes in ecu.
I have fixed my timing and for some reason I still get the DTC for CAM/CRANK and my car wont always start right away.
I have changed both sensors and they are brand new and I am not 100% sure that they are not faulty.
I have tried to get some help but the only suggestion I received was that it might be my fuel pump as suggested.
I have yet to change my fuel pump as it keeps the car on no problem.
I am considering it being the actual microswitch in the drivers door not priming the fuel pump.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I think at this point I would just code out the DTCs to pass emissions and then findout and fix my actual problem.
Please advise, Thanks guys.

Possibly bad cam position sensor, or broken woodruff-style key that's molded into the crank damper. Knowing what year/make/model/engine you have would help as well. We're not mind readers. Smiley
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aef
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« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2018, 06:03:25 AM »

is this a joke?

i think so because of aol mail adress  Roll Eyes
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Carsinc
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« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2018, 08:47:57 AM »

Possibly bad cam position sensor, or broken woodruff-style key that's molded into the crank damper. Knowing what year/make/model/engine you have would help as well. We're not mind readers. Smiley


He has already expressed 0 interest in actually fixing the car.
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cuLtivated
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2018, 11:00:11 AM »

I saved this 337 from a backyard in queens, took the entire motor apart, redid every single gasket, hose, sensor, upgraded over $2000 in shit and reset timing 2x. its still saying the same bullshit about the crank sensor and the cam sensor. I want to get the car registered so I can drive it to a friends house which is over an hour away for additional help figuring it out. I dont want to pay for another tow, another uhaul rental, and more fucking bullshit.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2018, 11:04:52 AM by cuLtivated » Logged
cuLtivated
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2018, 11:02:27 AM »


He has already expressed 0 interest in actually fixing the car.

... Redacted to express apology for yesterday.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2018, 07:13:19 AM by cuLtivated » Logged
cuLtivated
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« Reply #7 on: August 28, 2018, 11:03:59 AM »

Possibly bad cam position sensor, or broken woodruff-style key that's molded into the crank damper. Knowing what year/make/model/engine you have would help as well. We're not mind readers. Smiley

2002 VW GTI 337 1.8T AWP 02M
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2018, 12:45:34 PM »

2002 VW GTI 337 1.8T AWP 02M

Check the woodruff key on the damper. Verify with a dowel rod or similar measuring device that when the marks are @ TDC it's actually TDC for no.1 piston. I've seen/heard this many many times about "everything is on the marks but car throws this DTC". Something is off.

I've seen:

Cam sprockets on backwards
Cam to cam timing off
Misaligned crank dampers from using impacts to tighten the bolt and/or not using a proper counter-hold tool.
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adam-
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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2018, 02:05:39 PM »

Clearly you cant fucking read in english. MY FIRST POST STATES I HAVE ALREADY CHANGED THOSE PARTS OUT WITH BRAND NEW BOSCH PARTS.... Fuck you, go fuck yourself. Think you know everything and are the man I bet your a fucking looser with a POS who doesnt even know how to do anything but copy paste straight from this forum and many others.

You'll fit right in here.

You need a mechanic, not a tune.
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_nameless
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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2018, 02:19:06 PM »

Clearly you cant fucking read in english. MY FIRST POST STATES I HAVE ALREADY CHANGED THOSE PARTS OUT WITH BRAND NEW BOSCH PARTS.... Fuck you, go fuck yourself. Think you know everything and are the man I bet your a fucking looser with a POS who doesnt even know how to do anything but copy paste straight from this forum and many others.
@nye please pin this post as a joke
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adam-
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« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2018, 02:22:53 PM »

Grass.
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Carsinc
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« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2018, 08:51:20 PM »

Clearly you cant fucking read in english. MY FIRST POST STATES I HAVE ALREADY CHANGED THOSE PARTS OUT WITH BRAND NEW BOSCH PARTS.... Fuck you, go fuck yourself. Think you know everything and are the man I bet your a fucking looser with a POS who doesnt even know how to do anything but copy paste straight from this forum and many others.
Clearly you can't spell looser loser.
Also if you post pics of engine at tdc, of crank pulley mark,and front of pulley, cam mark, and then of cams with vc removed if we dont see
the problem, and fuck you i have lots of POS.
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cuLtivated
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« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2018, 07:20:36 AM »

Clearly you can't spell looser loser.
Also if you post pics of engine at tdc, of crank pulley mark,and front of pulley, cam mark, and then of cams with vc removed if we dont see
the problem, and fuck you i have lots of POS.
Apology for yesterday. I removed my post as that was not my intention to start a fight. I will be taking pictures tonight when I get home from work. I appreciate you taking the time to listen and respond accordingly. I am willing to do whatever it takes to fix my car. I am new to wrenching, honestly I am a technology type guy, so mechanical stuff isnt really my thing however if its possible to learn I am capable. I can read diagrams, follow directions and figure out whats wrong. I literally have done so much already with just the bentley and followed its advise to the T. The car fires up just some starts it takes approx 2 seconds to do so, other starts are perfectly fine. I showed a member of vortex via fb video chat while doing it who is a vag certified mechanic from ny state and he confirmed everything looked good the rollers counted 16, the cam marks and arrows lined up, piston 1 was at top (tdc). I am reading back at other posts from here and realized that the issue may be of the cams not being where they should be so I am going to again start taking it apart. Any suggestion are appreciated and will be looked into. Thank you
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Carsinc
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« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2018, 09:15:27 PM »

i really just need the pics, I can tell you the problem.
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