I am finishing up my swap from 1.8t to 2.7T single turbo and will be trying to tune the thing myself.  I still have some issues to work, but for the most part the engine is running and ready to be dialed in.  

So far I have a stage 1 tune.  It has emmisions related stuff deleted so I can get this thing registered, and to help troubleshoot issues since it is a "proven" tune.  

Right now I am trouble shooting why the MAF is reading all sorts of crazy.  

Maf not connected fuel block 1 lamda reads around =/-5%.  With maf connected I am getting -25% on bank 1 and ~+15% on the other. The maf will read 12g/s at idle and will fluctuate between 230 and 350 with slight throttle holding rpms at about 2k.   Car barely idles and will not rev with the trim battles going on.  The two sensors are in my down pipe right after the turbo.  

Maf Disconnected I can drive the car around, but there is a major hitch when going from low vaccum to low boost.  I have watched my wideband go stupid lean in this area, and trhen all the sudden fueling kicks in and it takes off until throttle cut. (running off of the wg spring right now, so boost needs to be dialed in)

It has M box satge one file written on it.  I dont know if he wrote it, or just flashing the a file he has from some other source.  I dont know if it is really running on other cars.  I just assumed that since I asked for as few mods as possible, just emmsions deletes, that my car would run decent enough.  I tried to red the file from the ECM last night but the flash utility kept getting hung up on the trying to communicate with the ecm.  I kept having to close the program and pull power to the ECM so it would reset.

I was using a 4" (turbo inlet size) to 3.5" reducing 90deg silicon elbow with the maf on the end of it. 

Also to add, I am getting multiple short to ground faults.  I traced them in the wiring diagrams and it seems that the n75 and n80 are wired in to the rear o2s.  I did cut the plugs for the rear o2s out of the harness, and these solenoids/valves are linked to their power right after the fuse.  I am hoping I dont have to take my harness back apart to fix this.

I guess I just sent you a PM asking you about the primary o2s.  I would really like to only use one sensor. 

You cut all that stuff out of the harness?  The only thing I want under my hood is the N75.  I would love to have all that stuff gone.  No resistors, no plugs, no extra wires, no fault codes, and readiness set. 

Here is the stg 1 file I have flashed on my M-box.  I ran the difference tool between that and the stock bin and its showing there to be So,e changes to timing and MAF.  I read on the wiki that the MLOFS (MAF OFFSET) was supposed to be 0 or 200, in this fiel it is 513.7.  I dont know what that does, but I also comapred it to my buddies tuned file and his is set to 0 like the wiki says for a hitachi MAF.     What am I missing here? 

On the file, the only thing I changed was the interchanged sensor functions like here:
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=722.msg6469#msg6469

I do have pics of it all.  The manifolds are 304 stainless pipe log manifolds with v bands on the ends, nothing special really.  I will try to post more in the morning.

I flashed my file I pieced together from the stg 2++ tune.  I was pretty skeptical at first because it was my first time doing the whole process, and I had to change so many things around for my particular setup.  

Started the car, MAF unplugged and first thing I noticed was the fact that with the Maf unplugged it no longer had a 12-13gps value.  It was ZERO like it should have been.  That eliminated wiring to and from the MAF like I was thinking.  Car was still pulling a lot of fuel at idle, I blame it on me not having the MAF hooked up.  

I took it for a spin around the block and was pleasantly surprised.  Again I was skeptical.  I took it easy for the first few seconds just to see if anything was obviously wrong.  Turned onto my WOT in First gear street, slowly revved to 3.5k and braced myself....either I was going to go flying forward from the violent jerking it was doing around that RPM range, or I was going to get pushed back and have to grab 2nd.  I can gladly say, that the car didnt hesitate and got right down to business.  Almost instantly I got all 13psi (still on WG spring).  I did this for a few more times around the block just to be sure it wasnt a fluke and then parked it so I wouldnt continue to look like a jackass.

This whole time I thought my issues were all hardware related.    

I am not using any MAF right at the moment because with my original "tuned" file I got eratic readings and the car wouldnt even idle.  I thought I had a bad MAF ^ see pictures above of the VCDS readings with Maf plugged and unplugged.  I will be throwing the Maf back in the mix today to see if in fact it is bad.  Hopefully by the end of the day I will be able to start on the Stg 3 file hacking.