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Author Topic: KFMIRL & KFMIOP (done to death, I know)  (Read 27027 times)
IWay
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« Reply #30 on: June 14, 2019, 08:06:38 AM »

Any body know what ChargeLimitPID-I is, as it's doing something when the boost peaks?

Tried search didn't come up with anything useful.

Thanks
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nyet
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« Reply #31 on: June 14, 2019, 08:11:26 AM »

Why are you even bothering worrying about the PID if you are going to run max wgdc?

You literally ignored every single one of my posts.

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IWay
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« Reply #32 on: June 14, 2019, 08:45:32 AM »

The same words can be interpreted in very different ways.

Not worried about it, just want to know what it is?

I did previously post;

"I was suspecting that the Turbo might be running out of puff (I did note that the wastegate was maxing out at 95% earlier in the thread)"

and

"When would a F23 be expected to run out of puff?"

People some times don't actually answer the post but go of on tangents.

Any way as far as I can tell something doesn't add up, apparently the F23 should make more boost than it is with the WGDC running at 95% or not.

So it's either;

- Something wrong with the logging (unlikely)
- Something wrong mechanically, WG actuator set incorrectly at factory, leak somewhere, etc (possible, but it runs fine, no codes, I can't see anything and would expect to see some other symptoms for a mechanical fault)
- Map not performing as expected (possible)
- That's as far as a F23 goes (possible)

In your experience what boost should an F23 make on a 1.8T and if you say it should make a lot more would a FMIC and or big TIP make much difference?

Thanks

« Last Edit: June 14, 2019, 08:50:20 AM by IWay » Logged
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« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2019, 08:50:17 AM »

- Something wrong with the logging (unlikely)
Agreed, unlikely
Quote
- Something wrong mechanically, WG actuator set incorrectly at factory, leak somewhere, etc (possible, but it runs fine, no codes, I can't see anything and would expect to see some other symptoms for a mechanical fault)

Absolutely this. Also possible you have an intake collapsing somewhere - common on 1.8t setups
Quote
- Map not performing as expected (possible)
No. Your n75 is maxed out. There is nothing more a map change can do. You could completely disconnect the wg line and you'd likely see the same issue, unless the N75 is bad

Quote
- That's as far as a F23 goes (possible)

In your experience what boost should an F23 make on a 1.8T and if you say it should make a lot more would a FMIC and or big TIP make much difference?

I haven't run an F23 on the 1.8t personally but from looking at the compressor map it should indeed be able to do better.
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IWay
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« Reply #34 on: June 14, 2019, 09:22:59 AM »

Cool, Cheers.

I'll do some mechanical testing & let you know.

Have a good weekend
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prj
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« Reply #35 on: June 15, 2019, 10:57:22 AM »

Btw running 1.5+ bar on stock rods means you most likely already damaged the engine and they're not straight anymore.
It really doesn't need much.
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nyet
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« Reply #36 on: June 15, 2019, 12:49:01 PM »

Btw running 1.5+ bar on stock rods means you most likely already damaged the engine and they're not straight anymore.
It really doesn't need much.

Well, then, now he has lower compression! That means more booooooost and more timing yo!
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« Reply #37 on: June 15, 2019, 11:28:01 PM »

Well, then, now he has lower compression! That means more booooooost and more timing yo!

yeah to bend them even more Cheesy
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IWay
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« Reply #38 on: June 17, 2019, 07:18:34 AM »

All,

Thanks for you input.

Long story short, done some more testing. Even ran with the wastegate actuator pipe disconnected, IE 100% WGDC, identical results as previous.

It's either choking or the turbos a dud, don't think it's a dud, spins up fine, less than 1k miles old, no strange noises etc. Might be that it's not a F23, don't think this is case either the turbine is definitely different to the K04 I took off and it said F23 on the box.

So back to choking, the exhaust side has stainless tubular manifold, 3" down pipe, decat, 3" exhaust all the way through, so no more I can do here (I'm not going to pull the head apart for porting etc).

The inlet side however is almost stock with the exception of a cheap ebay TIP as the stock one had split. So I have ordered a Badger5 oversized TIP which should eliminate the TIP chocking point. If the new TIP doesn’t make any difference then it's the turbo. At some point soon I'll get some type of cone air filter, and if necessary FMIC.

When I run the new TIP for the first time I'll be putting a pulled back map on it, as I think the current map will probably break the car if the new TIP solves the problem.

I'm thinking I can't be far off the 300HP\300FT\LBS at the moment which was the original aim.

Now the questions part;

- Does anybody know here the choke point is for a stock TIP (Audi TT BAM, 225)?

On testing the current map it's already showing an over boost spike on initial spin-up and it's knocking over 4Krpm, once the choking is resolved I expect these to get worse.

I'm going to do some reading on how to reduce\eliminate these, any good pointers? I know I'm looking at the boost PID and fuelling & timing, but that's about it at the moment.

Thanks


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adam-
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« Reply #39 on: June 17, 2019, 07:51:45 AM »

I said on the last page that you are at 95% DC and nothing is going to add more boost.  Your wastegate line is effectively disconnected at 95%.

You aren't logging individual cylinder knock values in those logs.  Also without rods a good spike will make this shit the bed.
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nyet
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« Reply #40 on: June 17, 2019, 07:58:30 AM »

What is your wg spring set to?
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
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Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
IWay
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« Reply #41 on: June 17, 2019, 08:31:11 AM »

I ran it at waste gate pressure appears to be about 6PSI.

Also does the attached log & graph mean that there is knock but it's been corrected or does it need correcting?

I've not touched knock control before.

PS
Going to dyno it after fitting new TIP.

Thanks
« Last Edit: June 17, 2019, 08:37:45 AM by IWay » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #42 on: June 17, 2019, 08:57:47 AM »

DO NOT RUN THIS FILE ON THE DYNO YOU ARE WAY OVER THE MAP LIMIT

There a dozen things wrong with your approach, and it shows in your log.

W T F are you thinking?
« Last Edit: June 17, 2019, 09:00:09 AM by nyet » Logged

ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
nyet
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« Reply #43 on: June 17, 2019, 08:58:55 AM »

Seriously, if you dont understand

1) why you shouldn't run this file
2) why I asked about wg spring

you absolutely need to step away from the car and do a bit more research/learning about turbos Sad
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
IWay
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« Reply #44 on: June 17, 2019, 09:32:43 AM »

I did say,

"When I run the new TIP for the first time I'll be putting a pulled back map on it, as I think the current map will probably break the car if the new TIP solves the problem."

You asked about the spring to see if it was set wrong IE opening too much too early.

I'm not a complete dim-wit, only started mapping begging of last month as a hobby, not been doing it for years as some people.
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