DonkeyDub
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« Reply #60 on: March 20, 2020, 01:26:15 PM »
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KFDZWKG map ( Correction of the ignition angle by shifting the knock limit ) outputs - zwkg
dzwol - Lambda ignition angle correction of the optimal ZW
dzwoag - Exhaust gas return rate correction of the optimal ZW
Are you suggesting to raise KFZW values to counter these corrections.
I'm curious how KFDZWKG works. Shifting the knock limit?
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nyet
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« Reply #61 on: March 20, 2020, 07:52:00 PM »
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Yes. Increase KFZW. OR:
If your actual load is overshooting your request habitually, yes, you can retune KFMIOP/KFMIRL. But if they're already inverses of each other, you may just want to underscale MLHFM a bit and bring up KRKTE accordingly until actual load is always under req. I know some purists will object, but slight load underscaling never hurt anyone, plus it will automatically bring up your KFZW output for you as a side effect without ever having to touch the table itself.
Also compare ps_w to actual ps during wot to see if it is a MAF too high issue.
Do not touch any knock control maps. They should be fine stock.
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #62 on: March 21, 2020, 03:22:26 PM »
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Stock KFZW, too much but It did of course bring up Zwgru.
Need to tweak them down.
What throws me off is Zwout = Zwsol when rl_w< risol_w.
I need to look more into FR and Torque monitoring. If I had mibas and mimax, it'd likely be very obvious.
I'd be more tempted to under scale MLHFM if the above wasn't happening. Example in screenshot.
Still unsure of KFMIRL/IOP.
I've seen post about always having actual torque<requested.
In stock iop it seems actual = requested or actual>requested.
IOP:1240 RPMS @ 140 load = 70.59 KFMIRL: 1250 RPMS @ 70% Torque = 138.82
If the former is true, mine is incorrect and I should Increase KFMIRL.
Side question, how closely should msdk_w follow mshfm_w? is there an acceptable tolerance?
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nyet
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« Reply #63 on: March 21, 2020, 06:25:47 PM »
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You're overthinking things, especially now that you are hitting knock control
Stop worrying about torque intervention. It isn't a problem in your logs, you're making enough timing to hit knock limits as it is.
You didn't bother logging actual boost and ps_w, which is what you are really looking for if you are worried your MAF isn't scaled right.
I don't recall if you mentioned you had a stock MAF or not, but a CAI is going to fuck with your MAF readings.
Not enough for torque intervention but it might affect fuel trims.
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #64 on: April 01, 2020, 12:07:38 PM »
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Stock maf.
Pid work and zwgru raise fixed it.
A steady 18lbs with timing the clutch slipped between 2000 and 3200 rpm in high gears
Going for 1 bar now.
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« Last Edit: April 01, 2020, 12:09:54 PM by DonkeyDub »
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nyet
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« Reply #65 on: April 01, 2020, 01:07:27 PM »
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A steady 18lbs with timing the clutch slipped between 2000 and 3200 rpm in high gears
careful with this. once you get this happening, there is no going back. Things are going to get exponentially worse... |
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Auriaka
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« Reply #66 on: April 01, 2020, 03:48:25 PM »
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Must has a valid point
I originally had clutch slip just at last 1000 Rpms. My response was to taper the boost out to bring down the power. Still slipped, was noce to it and kept out of the throttle to hard and by the end of 2 weeks I couldn’t get on it past 40% pedal before it would just free rev on gate pressure only (8psi)
Once clutch slips, it does not come back.
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #67 on: April 02, 2020, 12:11:12 PM »
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Glazed clutch can recover.
With this issue,
Midway through a casual drive, I hit the clutch pedal. It shifted well but there was
A noticeable difference in pedal pressure. Valeo SMF kit in it is just over a year old.
All functions are fine besides pedal difference. (Besides the slip which may be from too much TQ for the clutch kit)
I'm unsure whether clutch kits wear in after so many miles and have a change of feel or if they should feel consistent from install until broken/worn.
The kit is rated at 300ft lbs and between 2000-3000rpm it is well near there at 18lbs.
If the clutch pedal should be consistent then there is likely something wrong with my pressure plate.
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #68 on: April 07, 2020, 08:07:45 PM »
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1 bar is good!
Going to clean up the pid controller, get it dialed in and post a log.
Crazy how the Unitronic tune would hit 26 psi but 18lbs with a proper tune makes more power.
Proper is a given to more power but still suprising.
I'd like to have more of that low end torque between 3000-50000rpm. But I'd rather steady boost instead of ramping up and down.
Nyet, for egts on a gasoline. What is max temps I should shoot for one k03s?
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nyet
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« Reply #69 on: April 07, 2020, 09:14:40 PM »
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900C PRJ would probably say 850 though  |
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #70 on: April 30, 2020, 10:29:06 AM »
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Vehicle has a 3inch turbo back exhaust and No egt Gauge.
How accurate is tagbts_w? Does the Exhaust affect its accuracy?
If I aim to keep this under 900c during a fourth or fifth gear pull.
Is this overkill or desired?
I'll check FR as well.
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #71 on: May 15, 2020, 11:46:16 PM »
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What other maps share RPM axis with KFLDHBN?
I'd like 3520 or 5000 to be 4500.
What Injector duty Cycle do you use as a maximum? 85?
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #72 on: May 16, 2020, 11:06:56 AM »
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With Methanol injection. Have you experienced any damage to aluminum parts?
Worried about interactions with the 1.8t head.
Is methanols corrosive proprieties milder in vaporized form?
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DonkeyDub
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« Reply #73 on: May 16, 2020, 11:16:25 AM »
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How accurate is tagbts_w? Does the Exhaust affect its accuracy?
If I aim to keep this under 900c during a fourth or fifth gear pull.
Is this overkill or desired? |
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nyet
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« Reply #74 on: May 16, 2020, 04:32:30 PM »
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Why on earth would you post a screen shot? It can't be indexed by search engines, so any words in the picture are irrelevant. Not only that, but if the page changes, the contents of the photo are out of date. What you meant to do was this: https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Exhaust_gas_temperatureVAG-COM blocks 034 and whatever else only display an internally calculated O2 sensor temperature (tabgbts), which is what most people think are real EGTs. That value may or may not have anything to do with the real EGTs or temperature at the primary O2 sensors; in fact, those temperature values are stored in 2 maps where the inputs are load and RPM.
Block 112 is the only block where a real EGT value (tats) is displayed, and only when the actual EGTs exceed 945°C. This is only due to the design of the sensors and their electronic modules, which makes that they can only "read" 945-1035°C and that's all. So basically if all you see is 945 all the time, it means your actual EGTs never exceed 945.
If you see block 034 EGTs hitting 750 or 800 or 850, those values have never been, are not and will never be actual EGTs. The only real EGTs are in block 112. If you want to know what they are when they're below 945, then you have to use RS6 sensors with adequate programming, so you get a range of -40 to 1100°C and then you will know what your real EGTs are.
Screen shots of text are worse than useless, IMO |
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