Hello to everyone.

Is it possible to know more info about this engine 2.7 Biturbo ? I'm looking to know the limit of this stock engine...and what hardware need to be change to go over for a stage 1, stage 2 stage 3 and so on, what is better to change or better to use like original parts (example coils sparkplugs ..etc...)


Other thing, i have a problem with OBD connection.
Car is already tuned with a ABT ecu and i don't know if the problem it's for this cause.

If i plug in VCDS, or Launch ... ecu doesn't  connect...it gives error.
Any advice to solve this problem?

No i'm not joking.

I know everything about 1.8T 20v and VR6 ... but i know nothing about this 2.7 v6 ...it's my first time...and i'd like to know much info possible... real info and not bar talk.

Then if also these knowledge in this forum is a secret...doesn't matter...i will find info elsewhere 

Just ask. Be specific. 2.7t ME7 tuning is ridiculously well documented and just as widespread (if not more so) than 1.8t tuning.

If you have problems, post what you are trying to do and a copy/paste of what is going wrong. Just saying "I see an error" is utterly useless.

My opinion (probably many might disagree)

stock s4 internals are good to 440-450 wtq, stock head good to 6700 rpm redline
stock compression ratio is fuel/timing limited, you can't get more than 500whp w/o good gas or water/meth, no matter what turbos
stock intercoolers heat soak very quickly at >14psi
stock s4 maf good to maybe 12-13 psi at redline (more for rs4)
upgrading internals are pointless w/o better gas
stock s4 turbo good to 17-18psi peak, significantly less up top (maybe 10-11)
stock rs4 turbo good for 20-22psi peak, 17-19 at readline
stock fueling good to 15psi redline (more if you can run lean at redline, with 91 oct need 11afr)
stock manual trans is good to 550 tq+
stock tip trans is good to 400 tq
main restriction is NOT intake (CAI is pointless for almost all applications, and make MAF tuning tricky) but downpipes/precats/exh
stock airbox is a restriction to some extent; for rs4 remove flap and drill more large holes or cut out bottom and replace with screen (applies to s4 as well)
coilpack conversion kit pointless, no performance benefit, may need to tune dwell. Only advantage is 1) don't have to replace ICMs if they burn out 2) coilpacks marginally cheaper.
catchcan is a pretty good/cheap mod, simplifies vac system, prevents oil in IC/intake and associated fouling and intake restriction
front mount oil/trans cooler good idea for hot weather and >450whp
stock BPVs good for any pressure level up to who knows what... 30psi+?
the #1 problem people have is throwing parts at the car w/o talking to a tuner first because they read on AZ they're awesome


this is all of the top of my head, I could be wrong on any of those numbers by up to 50% (take with grain of salt, input appreciated).

prj can you comment on any of my back of the napkin numbers above? I know many are likely inaccurate.

I've seen stock s4 bottom ends bend (not throw) rods at around 500-550wtq but i'm guessing any big turbo 2.7t that can make 600hp can't make that much tq?

I think prj's estimate of 600nm is very conservative (440 ft lb), in any case.

It's not that conservative.

Look at graph in attachment.
This ran with WMI (incl. map switching with failsafe) and no CF.
Engine had 4 slightly bent rods in it when opened.
Everything ran fine, just a rebuild was decided because the oil consumption was a little high (but the engine was over 15 years old and abused).

Anything over 600 Nm will bend rods. Anything over 750 Nm will throw rods quite quickly.

P.S.
PID was calibrated in both cars and as you can see on dyno graph even when accelerating the car at high load from low RPM there were no boost spikes at all.
So there was no over-torque or anything like that. Not everyone is able to calibrate the PID to be that consistent, and those spikes bend rods.