And a log file from this morning, from startup through some surface streets, some freeway, back to surface streets.  Also, for whatever it's worth the LTFT's after running around all morning were 5.6% idle / 3.9% partial throttle...

try zipping it before you upload, not gonna dload that

I'll probably have to get out in the boonies or up in the middle of the night to do that I think, but I'll give it a go as soon as I can.  There's two Walmarts, a Costco, a Target, a Trader Joes, a couple of Whole Foods-type places and a few other giant "everything" stores within like two miles of my house, so all the roads and freeways are clogged up with suburban Karen-types going around panic-buying everything they can lay their hands on...

Thanks for being patient.

So my wife and I took turns the last few weeks, first her then me, being laid up sick with "probably mild COVID-019" so I wasn't able to get out and try to run better/more useful logs until yesterday morning and some more non-logged driving later in the day. I think the log with the earliest timestamp might be the most useful of the three because I didn't have to slow before getting to 4000rpm but not sure.

I did have time to think on things some, and while I think I understand that the KFNWSE, KFNWKHE, KFNWKRE etc. tables are the degrees before/after TDC that the intake valves open with the VVT, does that have any effect on ignition and injector timing?  Or are those entirely separate with the cam, crank and knock sensor inputs?   It came to mind mostly because my intake valve opening events are (VVT off) at 8deg instead of (VVT off) at 18deg from the reverse-rotation build, and it isn't mechanically "fixable" without monkeying with the chain sprocket on the intake cam.  If those values do impact the ignition and injector timing calculations, would it be better in my case to change them to reflect when the intake valves actually open relative to TDC?  I spent a fair amount of time while sick staring at the funktionsrahmen trying to understand that and figure it out for myself, but between being sick and being a n00b ... I'm kinda lost. 

I'm not sure if there's an actual problem or not -- that's what I'm trying to figure out.  By and large it generally runs pretty good, but there's some .. weird .. stuff going on that I'm trying to understand and sort out.

It runs roughly and records many misfires across all four cylinders after flashing or clearing codes, until it's been run long enough to adapt.  It's "stutter-y" and hesitates from off-idle up to around 15-1600RPM, more when cold but even when warmed up to some extent.  It sort of bogs and falls on it's face when I mash the pedal to WOT no matter what gear or engine RPM.  It seems to hit some sort of a "limp mode" if the boost hits more than about 15-16PSI as read on a VDO gauge that's tee'd in between the manifold and FPR; after it hits that "wall" it's very noticeably down on power but clears up with 10-15 minutes of driving.  Haven't had that happen and been able to get the computer hooked up before it goes away, but there's no code set.  In 4th and 5th gear it doesn't want to go much past 3000RPM no matter what I do, even on flat ground. 

I never had any of that with the AEB harness/ECM on the motor.  No misfires/misfire codes, no KS codes, good power and pull all the way up to 5000+RPM on flat ground no matter what gear, boost never went above 10-12PSI -- which has me suspect something related to the WB conversion, ether the AWM harness I used (though I've checked it over it wire-by-wire multiple times), something "not right" in the ECM/tune, or something that was swapped or added to work with the harness that's not functioning correctly.  I changed the MAF, injectors (which we know had me going round and round for a while .. because I'm a dumbass), throttle body, ECM, harness, and changed the upstream O2 sensor for a wideband. Added the DBW pedal from an '03 Jetta 1.8T, added the MAP sensor between the intercooler and TB, swapped the cam sensor ring, re-pinned the harness plugs for knock and crank sensors to match the motor because the sensors are all fairly new. I added the N249 valve between the intake and the N75 (N112/SAI off in ESKONF) but otherwise left all the existing vacuum, evap and vent hoses alone.  Same ignition coils as before (I had an ICM delete), same turbo/wastegate, same intercooler, same alloy diverter valve, same 4-bar FPR.  In the course of this thread I've upgraded the fuel pump to ensure good pressure and volume, and since January replaced the N75 again, this time with a new "C" version.  SAI deleted (no port in head), brake booster pump deleted and off in ESKONF.  Harness is from an A/T car, no clutch switch but the brake switch is installed and wired up and the ECM coded for manual.

I'm just trying to explain where I'm at in as much detail as I can think of.  I hope I'm not muddying things up too much doing so.



I wasn't planning to mess with the timing, just wondering if the difference between actual intake cam timing and "expected" cam timing values in the VVT tables might be having an effect on timing, even with VVT turned off in the ECM.  I do have the VVT tensioner on the motor, but it runs much better with it turned off in the tune and unplugged.

I'll try and get some good WOT logs, but it might be tricky.  Oregon's been on a statewide partial lockdown for nearly a month with no end date in sight, and I live right in Portland where there aren't many good places to drive the way I need for that other than the freeway, unless I get way way out of town.  With my health still not being even 80% yet, I don't know if I can get my wife to go along with me getting very far from home for a couple of weeks no matter what the reason.

why do you have the n249 between the intake and the n75 when it goes between the intake and the diverter? Anyone else catch that?