narrowband wot fueling is no mystery.

The answer is: your o2 sensors are not used during wot. switching to wideband does not change this; if something is wrong, you'll just get huge lambda corrections.

Let me get this straight: you propose that in order to prevent running out of injector, you tell the ECU it just needs to use less injector?

No, i'd get a tailpipe sniffer to see where you're at.

If MLHFM were that far off you'd see it in your LTFTs.

And it would indicate a hardware problem, not necessarily an overscaled MLHFM.

yes, absolutely 100% this.

Anyways I went out today took some logs and got familiar with what my Afr is doing, live right in front of me and found that lamsbg is saying the same thing my gauge is telling me. 10.2 at WOT just dosent seem right to me and I believe I should be around target?

Im going to install my ev14 52lb and try to get them set in but as a simple crash course, do I set KRKTE to hit stoich of starters?
In the past out of curiosity I blindly threw em in and set KRKTE using the equation on wiki and once I finally got it started it was way to rich and would foul out spark around 4k rpm.

Sorry. long story short and where im really trying to get at is when I install my injectors and get it started do I just lower the starting point value of KRKTE(assuming its really rich) until I get requested.

as for TVUB I was able to get it started and idle going by the spreadsheet uve posted in the other threads

You dont need to log to fix fuel trims (except to watch O2 voltages, more on that later)

You can just watch stft/ltft in vcds.

None of what you are doing makes much sense. You have narrow down what the issue is

1) bad hardware (intake/vac leak, bad injector, pump, filter, fpr, MAF, etc)
2) bad MAF scaling (MLHFM)
3) bad injector scaling (KRKTE/TVUB)

3) is the least of your worries if you are fairly certain you are close to theoretical for both KRKTE and TVUB. The car should start, warmup, idle, and run part throttle within 5-10% STFT/LTFT with no misfires or stumbling. If your injectors are very different from stock, you may have coldstart/warmup issues due to wall wetting, but once the motor is up to temp, it should run fine.

If that is not the case, STOP RIGHT THERE and figure out what else is wrong.

Also would be handy to post wideband logs during idle and constant part throttle (pick a load point that is still closed loop)

Finally, log NB O2 voltages.

Im going to have to go over 1) alittle more...

vac inhg looks weird @ 11 but I thought it might have been from when I got rid of pretty much all emission related stuff in the past. I did run compressed air thru the system today when I swapped out my injectors to make sure it was sealed and nothing seemed to hiss at me.

MAF is fairly new, the injectors has constant ohms thru out all 6, pump never showed signs of failure but I have a walbro 255lph that i was going to couple with the injectors if needed, same with the fpr and I have a 3bar on hand if 550cc @4bar was overkill and the filter I have never changed out but I will now that uve mentioned it.

2)I never messed with MLHFM and using wiki as a guide I was assuming I didnt have to with a stock MAF

3) I felt like I was getting somwhere with but in all honesty not being at work the only means of logging I have is me7logger and my newly installed WB gauge. With the new values it did start right up, warmed up on time, idled "ok" and part throttle seemed good when I cruised it back home.

sorry for being so noobish and not making sense, I never had to mess with fuel until now that I put together a BT kit