mdccode5150
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« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2022, 08:52:17 PM »
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I'm kinda visual, does this graphic (Image) summarize what you did? And I found this email in a Damos Dump. It talks about (2) Bootloader (and included)
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2022, 08:58:11 PM »
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R32Dude
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« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2022, 08:25:33 AM »
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I believe so. Leave the zero ohm resistors alone on this board. Just remove the 6.8k and ground the pad which goes to pin104 using a resistor (8.3 k works and is high enough to be kept grounded during galletto etc, etc), for bootmode. Never ground directly, don't risk it. Unground the 8.3k and reboot for normal operation
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2022, 01:53:23 PM »
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Thanks, I have (2) ecu's, and one is no longer communicating  . I will give it a try! |
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #19 on: October 20, 2022, 10:16:31 PM »
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I hope this will help someone unpack the bootmode, and reading the eeprom problems with the ME7.1.1's I did translate some as best as I could. ST10 ME7.1.1 40Mhz and others The email, the Quick Start Guide ST10 Boot Strap Loading (BSL) 2.1, and the powerpoint talks about problems making the change from 32mhz to 40mhz among other changes with URRAM "The "startup times" are now also having a negative impact on these projects". The Quick Start Guide ST10 Boot Strap Loading (BSL) 2.1 document seems to have a workaround to get it into bootmode item #8, and a diagram at the bottom. From what I gather they are shorting the CAN high and Low to activated bootmode via K-Line. The problem seems to be that raster is too fast, and it's causing a infinite loop. Problem Description : - EEPROM will not be read - Communication is lost on the first clear command (infinite loop while) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TRbLDZe53LUWISimdcJcpOcf8AcN5_Ip/view?usp=sharingI started a new topic at: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=21179.0title= |
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #20 on: October 21, 2022, 09:21:45 PM »
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My bad the schematic I was using is a ME7.1.1 C4 from a VR6. I need a C3. I looked at C2 but is different.
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R32Dude
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« Reply #21 on: October 22, 2022, 06:09:19 AM »
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Take some valium mate! You're gonna blow up the next one too. There is a document or two online about st10 bootstrap. In one it tells you that some specific pins need to be high when attempting bootmode. All you need to do is to see if any resistors are grounding any of those pins with a multimeter, and remove them.Ìn mine the 6.8k was culprit. Only then you use a resistor to ground the usual pin for bootmode.
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #22 on: October 22, 2022, 09:55:23 AM »
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Yes, I agree with you...last night I got the Tequila out  now all is well. I got the bad ecu working again, and I decided to pull the EEPROM, and read it! |
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #23 on: October 22, 2022, 09:56:51 AM »
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Ps do you have a picture of the resistor location? Many thanks.
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R32Dude
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« Reply #24 on: October 22, 2022, 05:25:26 PM »
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Ps do you have a picture of the resistor location? Many thanks.
Upload a photo of your board. Top view, good focus. The board area around st10 pins #100 and up. |
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #25 on: October 24, 2022, 02:00:30 PM »
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FYI I fixed (3) ecu's that where bad:
1. Not communicating after soldering that 000 resistor back on, so I replace with a 000 resistor of off a parts board, and re-soldered it, and the surrounding connections which fixed that problem.
2. Couldn't get into boot mode which was the pad connection to the trace (under the soldered boot wire) re-attached to pin #24 on Eprom.
3. Bad EEPROM someone tried to reflash to a manual, and it was a mess, downloaded original and flashed it.
Here is the original ECU that I couldn't get into boot (see) Picture, and it still won't go! I tried all times 3-10 seconds, with resistors 1kohm 4k ohm, 6.8K ohm, and straight to ground.
Thanks man!
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R32Dude
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« Reply #26 on: October 24, 2022, 05:28:51 PM »
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Looks like you have the other version, so my instructions don't count.Mine is for the one in me7.1.1 (3).jpg Have a look at the attachment, if you tried the 000 resistor and grounding the pin in the picture then there is a problem. Do make sure the 000 resistor you remove is EXACTLY in the same position as in the diagram!
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #27 on: October 24, 2022, 08:14:44 PM »
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Cool thanks.
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mdccode5150
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« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2022, 12:56:16 AM »
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Looks like you have the other version, so my instructions don't count.Mine is for the one in me7.1.1 (3).jpg Have a look at the attachment, if you tried the 000 resistor and grounding the pin in the picture then there is a problem. Do make sure the 000 resistor you remove is EXACTLY in the same position as in the diagram!
Finally found "THE PROBLEM" partially working Blue KKL (CH341), Just for the hell of it!. I tried another "Blue" Cable (with a fake FTDI chip) Works on every thing so far. Thanks again for the help! |
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aef
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« Reply #29 on: October 26, 2022, 12:40:41 AM »
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i peeked into this thread the other week and  didnt get the point of it. is there any new information on here or is this all about wrong cables and existing manuals how to desolder which part |
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