tadope
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« Reply #30 on: June 15, 2021, 03:26:37 PM »
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Jesus i'm reading the reset of your post now more carefully, and just about every sentence is ... not right.
18 hold on k03s? with stock wg and fueling? Really?
it's a k04 |
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tadope
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« Reply #31 on: June 15, 2021, 03:40:14 PM »
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386cc injectors 340lph intank pump
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nyet
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« Reply #32 on: June 15, 2021, 04:57:41 PM »
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ah sorry, confusing this with a different build, apologies.
K04s should have NO problem holding 24psi to redline with 95% DC (not that you'd want to).
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tadope
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« Reply #33 on: June 15, 2021, 05:04:58 PM »
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aaah. ok. more to troubleshoot then. (probably lazy wg actuator)
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tadope
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« Reply #34 on: June 16, 2021, 12:29:16 AM »
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Tougher wastegate spring and some higher octane fuel and it looks not so bad !
218 g/s maf flow !
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Blazius
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« Reply #35 on: June 16, 2021, 12:45:51 AM »
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Tougher wastegate spring and some higher octane fuel and it looks not so bad !
218 g/s maf flow !
Man... Stop targeting 1.5 bar at high rpm, it will simply not do it as you can see , you are literally running 95% wgdc and dropping boost. Also fix the lambda leanout on high RPM, like.. stop using this file period, 9 degrees of advance with 3 degrees of knock retard at 25C IAT cause 14 AFR at 6400 rpm, you are asking for trouble. The PID is messed up too slightly on spool, not even running 95%wgdc to get the best possible spool (IMO) If this is a ko4-023 or something along those lines, you should take a look at your setup, whats your downpipe etc. |
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tadope
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« Reply #36 on: June 16, 2021, 07:40:03 AM »
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Also fix the lambda leanout on high RPM, like.. stop using this file period, 9 degrees of advance with 3 degrees of knock retard at 25C IAT cause 14 AFR at 6400 rpm, you are asking for trouble.(IMO)
Could you explain this a little better. I didn't tune it myself. But i want to learn and do it myself next. |
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stuydub
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« Reply #37 on: June 16, 2021, 07:43:09 AM »
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Read every post on tuning me7 read the FR most will only help so much then ignore.... RESEARCH and more RESEARCH
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tadope
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« Reply #38 on: June 16, 2021, 07:44:14 AM »
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Ur very right stu
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #39 on: June 16, 2021, 08:47:42 AM »
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Advice: start from community stage 1, read wiki again and again. It will start to make sense.
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Blazius
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« Reply #40 on: June 16, 2021, 08:58:11 AM »
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Could you explain this a little better.
I didn't tune it myself. But i want to learn and do it myself next.
Like said you got loads of reading to do.. But 9 degrees of ignition advance at 6400~ is pretty damn low. With increasing engine speeds you need to keep the advance at a reasonable advance because physics. If you are on shit octane and you are very knock limited then you need to dump fuel which not only "cools" the combustion , it might allow you to run higher advance. If you keep the timing low, half your combustion will be happening when the exhaust valve is opening (to exaggarate), which leads to massive egts, its also a surefire to melt a piston. If you gonna keep running this file , then you should find out why desired lambda goes so lean and fix it before you are down an engine. |
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tadope
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« Reply #41 on: June 16, 2021, 09:08:11 AM »
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Like said you got loads of reading to do.. But 9 degrees of ignition advance at 6400~ is pretty damn low. With increasing engine speeds you need to keep the advance at a reasonable advance because physics. If you are on shit octane and you are very knock limited then you need to dump fuel which not only "cools" the combustion , it might allow you to run higher advance. If you keep the timing low, half your combustion will be happening when the exhaust valve is opening (to exaggarate), which leads to massive egts, its also a surefire to melt a piston.
If you gonna keep running this file , then you should find out why desired lambda goes so lean and fix it before you are down an engine.
Ooooooh. I always thought lots of retard meant safe zone. Ok. I'm working on getting the definition for this. I'm tempted to keep running it because the power is really good. Like 270bhp according to maf But I'll shut it down till I can sort it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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dream
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« Reply #42 on: June 26, 2021, 12:33:20 PM »
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Just start with stock file and work it out from there.
Never use someone or some "tuners" files because you never know what their intends are and what their level of knownledge is. They can make a good story but that doesn't mean they know about the construction.
If knock retardation occurs, look at boost level, AFR, IAT, and ignition timing. Try to pull when thing get out of control and the first thing mostly is to pull boost (and add fuel). But all depends on the situation.
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tadope
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« Reply #43 on: June 26, 2021, 12:45:01 PM »
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Just start with stock file and work it out from there.
Never use someone or some "tuners" files because you never know what their intends are and what their level of knownledge is. They can make a good story but that doesn't mean they know about the construction.
If knock retardation occurs, look at boost level, AFR, IAT, and ignition timing. Try to pull when thing get out of control and the first thing mostly is to pull boost (and add fuel). But all depends on the situation.
Ok. Question. If your afr is perfect. And you have no knock pull retard. Is there anything else that could be secretly wrong or dangerous? Or does that mean 100% that you've got it dialed in? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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nyet
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« Reply #44 on: June 26, 2021, 10:30:15 PM »
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Ok. Question. If your afr is perfect. And you have no knock pull retard. Is there anything else that could be secretly wrong or dangerous? Or does that mean 100% that you've got it dialed in?
There are plenty of things you might have gotten wrong. But ME7 has a lot of safeties. So unless you are running boost req past the sensor limit, or you numbed or disabled any of the safeties, you're probably ok. |
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