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Sandstorm3k
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« on: August 29, 2021, 02:07:33 PM »
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Hello me again, there is a guy in our 20vt group whose car has been sitting still for well over 3 months now (due to the issue and turbo build)
He can't resolve the problem and it isn't tune related, so i was hoping some expert could chime in on what could possibly be wrong with this car.
The problem is it runs like shit on idle, don't even think about driving it. Codes stored are P1358 and P1364. It also isn't tune related, as it does this on a simple stage 1 tune and also on different ECU's. List of replacements;
Coil packs, spark plugs, engine loom, ECU, injectors, camshaft sensor.
Anyone perhaps have an idea on what might be going on? The codes seem very clear, but i can't make sense of them after the loom, ECU and packs have been replaced but it keeps coming on.
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justinvw2646
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2021, 02:43:09 PM »
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Year make model engine code. Description of the P codes so we dont have to look it up. I am wondering if the car has a power output stage for the coils. Those things used to go bad all the time on the cars with bolt down coils.
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2021, 02:48:24 PM »
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Sorry my bad!
2002 Leon with 1.8T AUQ engine
Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
They aren't the bolt down style ones, they are of the newer type. I am also quite sure these AUQ/AUM engines don't use power output stages sadly.
It just doesn't make sense to me, the ECU is changed, the engine loom and the coil packs. What else is in between this wiring that could possibly cause issues on just these two coil packs?
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« Last Edit: August 29, 2021, 02:59:30 PM by Sandstorm3k »
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Blazius
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« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2021, 03:21:54 PM »
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Replace the main ecu relay it wont provide power to coils if its failing, not an open circuit but its worth to do anyway. 2 of my Audis both suffered from the same problem, just always replace these when you get a new VAG group 1.8t etc car, infact if you havent already, go ahead and do it now, get Kracker(VEMO etc.) as they are the OEM supplier.
You have to track down service manual to see when does it throw the open circuit code but I would assume its for the signal wire.
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2021, 03:27:42 PM »
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Replace the main ecu relay it wont provide power to coils if its failing, not an open circuit but its worth to do anyway. 2 of my Audis both suffered from the same problem, just always replace these when you get a new VAG group 1.8t etc car, infact if you havent already, go ahead and do it now, get Kracker(VEMO etc.) as they are the OEM supplier.
You have to track down service manual to see when does it throw the open circuit code but I would assume its for the signal wire.
Thanks for the suggestion we'll get straight to it |
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Geomeo
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« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2021, 08:48:03 PM »
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Try an oscilloscope you can Scope the signals coming from the ecu. Buzz out the wiring with a multimeter end to end. It’s possible you have a defective wiring loom. Or the old loom killed the new ecu. Shorts are only nice when hot chics at the beach are wearing them.
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2021, 02:16:55 AM »
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The car has seen three wiring looms and two ECU's I can't imagine the problem persisting through these changes. But I'll tell him anyway, thanks.
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Geomeo
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« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2021, 08:55:47 PM »
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On my car(Audi tt) it don’t seem that complicated. 2 pins per coil (2 &4)go to ground. Pin 1 of each coil makes its way to the ecu relay and a single pin to the ecu. Then the other 4 (pin 3 of each coil) are the signal wires from the ecu. But since all these wires are run with the whole loom it sounds like a giant pain to replace the entire loom. Best to buzz them out with a meter.
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2021, 12:11:24 PM »
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ECU and fuel pump relay swapped, still doesn't work.
Any ideas?
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Geomeo
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« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2021, 08:47:02 PM »
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Are you 100 percent positive the coil packs you replaced with are good? Can you swap 1 & 2 around? Open circuit means exactly that. Either wiring is disconnected somewhere or blown resistor in the coil pack.
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2021, 12:18:54 AM »
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He has tried two sets of packs and also swapped in any direction. Fault stays on #2 and #4 so i'd say it's unrelated to the packs. (OEM redtops, original packs etc)
I'm not too sure about the wiring about the coils though. The engine loom is replaced, but the coils are powered through a relay in the car. Wouldn't this mean there is more wiring involved that could cause issues? I also read something about wiring under/near the battery. We'll have to do some more digging, i was hoping someone has seen this strange behavior before.
Noteworthy: problems arose after he replaced turbochargers, i can't see how this is related but that's how it went.
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fknbrkn
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mk4 1.8T AUM
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« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2021, 01:39:12 AM »
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Did it happens on a stock file?
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Sandstorm3k
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« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2021, 03:00:00 AM »
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Did it happens on a stock file?
Good one, it happened on his old "generic" stage 1 which was fine before. After which i supplied him with a base file for his hardware adjustments (440cc, 4 bar, deletes etc etc) so he could drive the car before getting it tuned at some tuner with dyno. Stock file not tested, but i can't imagine my file and both a generic stage 1 to be at fault for this. |
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justinvw2646
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2021, 11:47:55 AM »
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I do not have access to Seat wiring diagrams. However looking at the diagrams for my GTi it looks like the ignition coil wiring is part of the body wiring harness and not the removable engine wiring harness. There is also a 14 pin connector by the battery on the GTi. Maybe seat uses this too?? I think a pin to pin overlay is in order.
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Geomeo
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« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2021, 02:46:24 PM »
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He has tried two sets of packs and also swapped in any direction. Fault stays on #2 and #4 so i'd say it's unrelated to the packs. (OEM redtops, original packs etc)
I'm not too sure about the wiring about the coils though. The engine loom is replaced, but the coils are powered through a relay in the car. Wouldn't this mean there is more wiring involved that could cause issues? I also read something about wiring under/near the battery. We'll have to do some more digging, i was hoping someone has seen this strange behavior before.
Noteworthy: problems arose after he replaced turbochargers, i can't see how this is related but that's how it went.
Not really. There is power from the ecu relay. But it’s all joined to pin one of the coils. If there were no power from the ecu relay coil pack 1 and 3 wouldn’t be working either. On mine it’s violet and black. If you continuity check between 1 on each coil plug they should all be joined. Is there a ground wire on the valve cover on yours? Maybe that’s dirty. |
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