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Author Topic: 2000 A6 APB 2.94L RS6-R Build/Tune  (Read 78975 times)
pablo53
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« on: January 09, 2013, 01:19:49 AM »

After many months of planning, saving, buying/selling, and many more months spent with the Audi Service Manual, piles and piles of parts, and some torque wrenches & plastigauge in my garage - This motor is mostly together.  2000 Audi A6 2.7T, Sport Package, Manual Transmission, 75K miles.

Drivetrain
  • APB Block, 82mm bore
    ATQ Heads fully built, new guides and lifters, polished cams, mildly ported and all Supertech Valvetrain (Inconel, Nitrided SS, Spring Kit)
    3L Crank, re-balanced
    Wiseco 8.5:1cr Forged Pistons
    Pauter X-beam Rods
    ARP Main Studs
    034 Bearings throughout
    Eurospec Non-Stretch Head Bolts
    Heavily Ported Stock Exhaust Manifolds (enormous PITA.  No wonder VAST used to charge so much to do it)
    Heavily Ported Stock Intake Manifold
    Stock Throttle Body
    Nefmoto Software and Tuner Pro
    CM Stage 4, 6 puck disk.  Machined OEM Flywheel
    Deatschwerks 320lph in tank pump mounted inside stock gutted pump
    JHM RS6R Turbos
    ARD '05.5 AR Aluminum TBB, 2.125" Bi-Pipes APR Bi-pipe, 4 bar map sensor, 5120 Mod
    ARD 3" Downpipes
    DIY 3" to 2.5" catless mid-pipes
    DIY Dual 2.5" Exhaust (2x Magnaflow 10426, 2x Magnaflow 11226)
    ARD 95mm MAF tube/K&N open air element
    Bosch Racing EV14 Porsche 997 650cc Injectors Bosch 980cc EV14 running E85
    SRM SMICs
    Innovate LC-1 Zeitronix ZT-3, STE PPD
    DIY PCV, Air/Oil Separator
    DIY Oil Cooler Unnecessary
    EFK, switchable between Manual and Auto
    etc etc

Chassis
  • Koni Sport Shocks w H&R Sport Springs.  Fronts - Sleeved, Rears - 4 grooved height settings
    B5 S4 rear calipers with B7 S4 rotors. 034 caliper spacer
    Porsche Cayenne 17Z Front Calipers over D/S 330mm Volvo V70R Rotors.  18Z Centric ceramic pads
    Hotchkis F/R Sway bar Kit
    034 Street Density Control Arm Kit w Adjustable Uppers
    034 Street Density Engine and Transmission Mounts
    JHM DTS
    18x8 Hartmann R8 Reps
    034 Snub Cage/Mount

Tuning - Just a nefmoto lurker/learner/beginner, I've played with files that already ran, but this will be the first attempt at tuning a setup starting from scratch.

ARD provided all the numbers needed to get the injectors dialed in.  Tuning for the MAF and all else will be new territory.

I hope to hear any and all your criticism and advice.

Tuning started with a stock M-Box file.  Car has a Hitachi Maf now installed.

First Steps
  • KISRM changed from stock 0.120435 to 0.134850 for change in displacement
    KUMSRL changed from stock 0.00107200 to 0.00114400 for change in displacement
    Coded out rear 02 and EGT sensors per S4Wiki
    Set Fuel System correction maps to 1
    Added rudimentary launch control at 4000rpm, and raised rev limit to 7500.
    Removed speed limiter
    Tweeked TVUB for new injector latency values
    KRKTE ended up at .04995 on stock MAF initial tune
« Last Edit: July 05, 2013, 11:50:34 PM by pablo53 » Logged
pablo53
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« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2013, 04:38:51 PM »

All is ready to bolt them on.   Hopefully in a month this car is up and running.

Anyone using the Innovate LM-2 for logging ecu data/afr?  Impressions?  Worth the extra $$$?



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pablo53
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2013, 10:20:15 PM »

Just a few more parts and ceramic coatings.



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ddillenger
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« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2013, 10:23:26 PM »

UGH

I think I just soiled myself. VERY nice.
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!

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nyet
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2013, 10:57:19 PM »

THAT is badass. Also I am a fan of low CR builds.
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
s5fourdoor
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2013, 11:06:36 PM »

very excited for this thread!  beautiful build...
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pablo53
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« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2013, 12:54:45 AM »

A couple of updates to the build:
  • Transmission/starter are now mounted to the motor
  • Piston size listed above as 81.5mm was mis-typed. Pistons are for 82mm bore (which is actually probably pretty close to 81.5mm since they are Forged from 2618 alloy).   I'm crossing fingers and beheading chickens in hopes that I don't end up with the same issues Julex had with his Wiseco's.  
  • ARD Bi-Pipe is a new design using a metal TBB boot, bolted to the TB through the stock holes, and V-banded to 2.25" bi-pipes with meth bungs.   Seems to be a nifty product, so I'll post pics once it arrives.
    • Intercoolers are now on hand, made by SRM.  Time will tell on performance, but for now, they sure do look nice....and big

    The d/s turbo oil inlet seems to have a sealing issue and it looks like the problem is potentially several issues so the oil line, bolt and the banjo fitting will need to be replaced.   $100 +

    I started looking into the Induction Motorsports Oil Line Kit $200 shipped
    then quickly realized a kit like this could easily be diy'ed with something like:
      -
    • 4 x 12mm banjo to AN -4 fittings, steel - $50
      8 x 12mm copper crush washers < $1
      12" PTFE Braided AN -4 Hose - $10
      20" PTFE Braided AN -4 Hose - $10
      3' of High Performance fire sleeve - $15

    I couldn't find specs for the K series turbos, but it looks like Borg Warner recommends AN -4 for their other turbos so I will assume this will work. 
« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 10:25:18 AM by pablo53 » Logged
pablo53
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« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2013, 12:46:02 AM »

Well, I'd hoped to have the got the first start out of the way by now, but for those who've taken on projects like this, there are always those little annoying delays no matter how well you plan things out.

Motor and Transmission are all together, wired, plumbing is all fitted
As of Friday, I'll have a new set of 3" downpipes minus RS6 style flanges
and still waiting for the LC-1 (Innovate 3796)
Once the parts arrive and I can get the flanges and 02 bung welded in, there will still be a two week delay for ceramic coating, ugh!

It's these delays though, that help to keep from making inpatient mistakes.  Gives us a chance to correct those things that might have been half-assed.   Add more fire-sleeve, heat shielding, clean-up some sketchy wiring, verify and re-verify fitment and torque specs....but mostly just end up buying more parts:
  • 5/16 Heim Joint diy Transmission shifter assembly crossmember
    Custom AN6 Turbo Oil Lines (14mm Hex bolts for the 12mm banjo fittings - much more room)
    Custom 3/8" ID Coolant Return Lines (17mm Hex bolts for the 14mm banjo fittings - also, much easier to install)
    Replace factory boost reference/wastegate lines with some 250 psi, 400* push-loc
    Braided Stainless PTFE Clutch Line
    $200 + 2 hours on AZ + 3 hours of Nefmoto = FSI Coil Conversion
    Wrap everything in this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fire-sleeving/=lo5hgi

If I have to sit around much longer, I will paint my entire Tornado Red A6 to either Charcoal Metallic or Meteor Gray Metallic

previous stock motor stage 3 for 2 years


Free - I just had to dismantle the engine for the shop's use of the heads, and pay them 75% of the $ I got for recycling the block


Not Free


Was supposed to be a cool pic of the ATQ in the foreground, APB background - Camera phones, what could I have expected?  This:


« Last Edit: April 06, 2013, 01:23:39 PM by pablo53 » Logged
pablo53
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2013, 09:44:36 PM »

Installed the motor/transmission today. 

Engine fired up within 10 seconds, which seemed unusually quick - Lines were purged in September.
 
I'll be running the stock maf while I fine tune injector constant, and seat the rings.

Two things I was pleasantly surprised by today:
  • No leaks anywhere... yet.
    SRM intercooler fitment.  They installed in 5 minutes a piece, and there is plenty of room in the oil filter area for the sandwich plate, and possibly the high capacity filter.

One thing that sucked: Bleeding the clutch.  It was just more a pain in the ass that it should have been for some reason.  Still doesnt feel right either.  I'm starting to wonder if the master cylinder went out.

Here's a couple camera pics during the install.











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airtite
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« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2013, 02:32:37 AM »

beautiful!
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pablo53
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2013, 12:09:25 AM »

beautiful!

Worked on the ride a few evenings this week, I've got just about everything on the car ready to roll out.  Car starts and runs great.  Ended up with some coolant dripping down near the oil cooler, but it looks like it was just building up on the block due to me not cranking down the coolant bleeder bolt.

Clutch issue I mentioned just turned out to be this: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/234720-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Install-Tips-and-Bleeding-101-by-JHM.  Front end of the car was too high when bled.

So far, after logging idle and part throttle while parked, I am seeing basically 0 STFT.  Fluctuates between about 2 and -3 on both sides-not simultaneously, but mainly stays at 0.   KRKTKE is 0.04995 with Bosch Racing 650cc/min injectors, and idle is smooth as butter. 

Car sounds very tame with a pair of Magnaflows (pn 10426 and 11226) per side with 2.5" mandrel bent tubing - 3" downpipes and no cats.   

I'm dying to take a test drive, but the brakes aren't quite done.

Just waiting (story of my life, right?)  on a pair of new front brake lines.  I'd originally planned on using banjo fittings, but I always felt for the Brembo setup, that the banjos could ratchet themselves loose under the right conditions, so I decided to go with 10mm to AN3 adapters at the calipers, then back to 10mm at the end of the hardline from the ABS, with a foot of AN3 in between.   Seems to make the most sense, and keeps the lines well away from anything the could rub, snag, or twist them oddly when steering lock to lock.

I will have a set of the JHM Rear S4 SS brake lines for sale, as the A6 rear lines are much shorter.  15" of brakeline back there is just way too much.   I guess the lines are run a little differently between those cars.   The S4 has a second section of rubber hose.


   
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pablo53
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2013, 11:40:50 PM »

Started on the oil cooler mount today while I wait for the brake lines.  It won't get installed until the car is broken in, but at least the hoses and mounting brackets will be ready to go.

Anyone else here end up getting screwed over by this? http://articles.latimes.com/2013/mar/13/business/la-fi-hr-block-blunder-20130314

Damn, I filed on January 29th, and I still haven't got my taxes back.
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Creed
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« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2013, 06:57:31 AM »

Looking very neat! Great job. I guess those injectors are another ev14's? What TVUB did you end up with?
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pablo53
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« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2013, 08:28:04 PM »

Looking very neat! Great job. I guess those injectors are another ev14's? What TVUB did you end up with?

Injectors are these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Racing-60lb-650cc-injector-Volvo-Porsche-VW-Audi-B5-S4-2-7-/330827200622?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d06d6786e&vxp=mtr

EV1 connection did not require an adapter, nor did the injector height require fuel rail spacers. So far so good. No misfires, and the car idles like a champ.

Nozzles have 6 holes, same as my previous EV14s.  My initial break-in file w/stock MAF is attached.

  
« Last Edit: April 09, 2013, 08:52:58 PM by pablo53 » Logged
Creed
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« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2013, 10:16:25 AM »

Thanks for sharing, I'm waiting for same injectors for my rs4 ASJ, also figured KRKTE around 0.05 +/- from other EV14's comparison, though calculated is smth like 0.045.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2013, 11:33:31 AM by Creed » Logged
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