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Author Topic: Cam position, 2.7T FT off-idle  (Read 6945 times)
AARDQ
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« on: January 14, 2013, 11:59:10 AM »

With my setup (2.7T BEL Tip, FT21s), in the off idle segment, I'm thinking I would want to delay intake cam retard to a point a bit later than w/ the stock K03s, i.e. follow what looks to me like the original philosophy and essentially treat the engine as NA until the boost threshold (which is, of course, a bit later with hybrids).

Any advice here?

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nyet
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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2013, 12:04:19 PM »

Why bother? You have a lot of other things to worry about first anyway which are going to affect torque far more than dicking around with cam timing.

Get all that stuff dialed first... because once you do, you'll have far more torque than the tip can handle anyway, and you'll have to end up detuning the car regardless.
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AARDQ
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« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2013, 12:45:53 PM »

Why bother? You have a lot of other things to worry about first anyway which are going to affect torque far more than dicking around with cam timing.

Get all that stuff dialed first... because once you do, you'll have far more torque than the tip can handle anyway, and you'll have to end up detuning the car regardless.

The other stuff is actually dialed in very nicely...  Except for boost threshold I'm not crazy about, and a somewhat out-sized response when reducing throttle, things are pretty groovy.
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catbed
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« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2013, 03:04:16 PM »

With my setup (2.7T BEL Tip, FT21s), in the off idle segment, I'm thinking I would want to delay intake cam retard to a point a bit later than w/ the stock K03s, i.e. follow what looks to me like the original philosophy and essentially treat the engine as NA until the boost threshold (which is, of course, a bit later with hybrids).

Any advice here?



KFNWSE is what you need. I am currently testing this for a 1.8t BT, but I would not worry about it with frankenturbos.
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AARDQ
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« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2013, 03:42:58 PM »

I'd seen the thread you had going but didn't want to hijack.  I've got the correct map (KFNWSE, as you say) identified.  The XDF for the 4Z907551R is quite complete, and the FR (especially German-language ME7.1) lines up nearly perfectly w/ this ecu.  I compared my current cam switching with what happens with the RS4 and it seems to add up that with something akin to K04s I should delay retard slightly.  This set-up is bona-fide gutless for the first two beats after mashing the throttle (I'm at 6,200') and I'm looking to gain anything I can in that phase.  Everywhere else, I'm more than pleased.  (The RS4 is of course quite different than a run-of-the-mill 2.7T, but at 650 rpm to 2,000 rpm I doubt there is much practical difference.)

Besides, learning what works and what doesn't is at least half the fun.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2013, 03:47:07 PM by AARDQ » Logged
prj
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« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2013, 04:22:24 PM »

Lock the cams to one position, make a pull, record torque, lock the cams to the other, make a pull, record torque.
Of course first tune KFZW in locked position and then KFZW2 in locked position so you have the same amount of timing pull.

After you do this, look where the torque graphs intersect, that's your switch point.
You can subtract about 50-100 rpm from it.
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AARDQ
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« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2013, 04:29:25 PM »

Lock the cams to one position, make a pull, record torque, lock the cams to the other, make a pull, record torque.
Of course first tune KFZW in locked position and then KFZW2 in locked position so you have the same amount of timing pull.

After you do this, look where the torque graphs intersect, that's your switch point.
You can subtract about 50-100 rpm from it.

Righty-o.  Thanks.
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nyet
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« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2013, 04:52:42 PM »

Besides, learning what works and what doesn't is at least half the fun.

This is true regardless Smiley

Just sayin, you should do the same on a car with a 6sp Smiley
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
AARDQ
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« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2013, 05:07:14 PM »

This is true regardless Smiley

Just sayin, you should do the same on a car with a 6sp Smiley

Oh, absolutely!  My personality is such though that I want to solve this little dilemma, or at least improve it, before making the switch.  Same with reprogramming the TCU.  Switching over to a 6sp (no way I'm selling this car) before I figure that out one way or another would be cheating.  Besides, it's too cold for enjoyable garage work right now, and commuting traffic has been a bitch lately, so I'm kinda glad for the Tip.
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