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s5fourdoor
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« Reply #15 on: May 17, 2013, 02:26:03 PM »
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lol. true. stage 2 sucks. had me a charlie murphy moment.
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AARDQ
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« Reply #16 on: May 17, 2013, 02:39:49 PM »
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It's the altitude, especially as it warms up around here. It's often 85-90 deg F, at 6,000' you've got a density altitude of ~9,000'. 815 mbar absolute pressure on a good day. Effectively you have the exhaust energy of a 150 hp engine and the car initially accelerates as if. No way around it with the FT. It's not terrible from 2,500 rpms-on but traffic maneuvers from a dead or near-dead stop  require planning and crossed fingers. That's a decent-sized chunk of the driving I do. Not happy about it, but them's the brakes. 21's. Probably be a couple of months before I'm ready to make the switch. |
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« Last Edit: May 17, 2013, 02:41:44 PM by AARDQ »
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AARDQ
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« Reply #17 on: February 28, 2014, 04:55:33 PM »
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Finally completed my 6MT swap a couple of days ago and holy cow I am stunned at how much better off the line (everywhere, really, but particularly off the line) it is with the manual. I figured it was Internet hyperbole when people would say that their car was 'transformed', but nope, it's the real deal.
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A6_C5_Allroad
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« Reply #18 on: April 01, 2014, 04:59:06 PM »
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Finally completed my 6MT swap a couple of days ago and holy cow I am stunned at how much better off the line (everywhere, really, but particularly off the line) it is with the manual. I figured it was Internet hyperbole when people would say that their car was 'transformed', but nope, it's the real deal.
And you were able to get rid of the damned SAI pump, to boot, correct? I've not missedd mine, that's for sure!!  |
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AARDQ
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« Reply #19 on: April 02, 2014, 08:41:03 AM »
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Yes, SAI went away when I changed to Frankenturbos 15 months ago or so (which, in case anyone cares, look and act pristine after 20,000 miles).
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A6_C5_Allroad
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« Reply #20 on: April 02, 2014, 10:35:21 AM »
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Yes, SAI went away when I changed to Frankenturbos 15 months ago or so (which, in case anyone cares, look and act pristine after 20,000 miles).
Great job, AARDO! The K03 turbos in my A6, 6 spd., are singing their swan song, so it looks like it's about time for the Frankenturbo investment. |
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nyet
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« Reply #21 on: April 02, 2014, 10:36:59 AM »
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I need to do this to my allroad
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AARDQ
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« Reply #22 on: April 02, 2014, 11:59:19 AM »
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I need to do this to my allroad
Sourced parts like driveshaft and trans mounts from ebay.de and ebay.co.uk and convinced seller to ship to US. Used an FYF-code trans from a 2002 A4 3.0. Unfortunately figured out too late that that model has a 0.73 6th rather than 0.68 so 3,250 rpms at 80 mph, which is excessive IMO. I may change to one of the TDI options at some point, but I don't do enough driving at that speed to justify it at this point. |
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nyet
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« Reply #23 on: April 02, 2014, 12:01:54 PM »
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The allroad i've heard is much easier since we got an NA 6sp version here...
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stuklr
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« Reply #24 on: April 24, 2014, 09:40:43 PM »
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My Allroad is a manual swap car. Purchased for a great price with a slipping reverse in the tip trans. Its really just a bolt in affair. Even the holes for clutch hydraulics are present.
The conversion make a huge difference, but I used the A6/S4/S6 4.11 final drive to keep the rpm low while on the highway. The factory final drive for the AR with a manual is 4.39 and the tip is even lower with 4.89! The trans I am running has the B5 S4 gear ratios so It also skips the very low Allroad first ratio.
Bryan at audiS4parts is also making a center driveshaft adapter so you can keep the tip prop shaft too. The tip shaft is ~4" shorter. Finding an Allroad manual center drive shaft was the most difficult part. It has a bespoke carrier bearing to match the lowered drivetrain so a manual A6 unit would need adapted.
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AARDQ
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« Reply #25 on: May 19, 2014, 08:58:43 AM »
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So, a couple of weeks ago I had a strange pulsation in the clutch pedal. Has briefly happened a couple of times since, but very briefly, almost like I'm 'feeling" things. This morning no reverse with engine on. If I engage reverse engine-off, start engine and back up, no problems, no weird noises -- but then into neutral and try reverse again, no luck unless I shut the engine off. I have a Sachs RS4 PP, and it seems from research like finger connecting ring failure is pretty common? Linkage seems fine...
Any other possibilities before I tear into things?
Any recommendation for a replacement PP that won't fail after 3 months? 400-420 HP level is fine.
Edit: Spent a couple of hours troubleshooting and the problem went away. Was just about ready to conclude that I was screwed when as a last ditch I straightened out the (flexible) clutch hydraulic line (it dipped lower than the slave at one point). Pumped the clutch pedal a dozen times and back in business. Can't say for certain if it was air, and I'm not going to be surprised if the problem comes back, but for now I'm very relieved.
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2014, 12:34:55 PM by AARDQ »
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AvantS4Me
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« Reply #26 on: September 15, 2014, 05:42:03 PM »
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AARDQ-
Did you have any trouble recoding the ABS module? Did you flash the ECU or just recode it? I just did the swap in an S4 and didn't recode the ABS module before disconnecting the TCU. Now I can't get the ABS module to accept the manual code.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2014, 06:21:18 PM »
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AARDQ-
Did you have any trouble recoding the ABS module? Did you flash the ECU or just recode it? I just did the swap in an S4 and didn't recode the ABS module before disconnecting the TCU. Now I can't get the ABS module to accept the manual code.
It is a PITA. You have to login. Usually 07497. Then, clear codes. Then, recode (whatever your current coding is, change the last number to a 5). Hit do it. Repeat until it sticks. Then, do a steering alignment. |
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
Email>PM
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AARDQ
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« Reply #28 on: September 15, 2014, 06:46:23 PM »
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It is a PITA. You have to login. Usually 07497. Then, clear codes. Then, recode (whatever your current coding is, change the last number to a 5). Hit do it. Repeat until it sticks.
Then, do a steering alignment.
I remember seeing someone on one site or another who ended up moving the old auto trans next to the car and plugging back in the TCU and trans until he could get the coding to stick. Mine is a BEL w/ 7.1.1 4Z7907551R so I didn't reflash, just recoded. I didn't actually have to do a steering alignment, just entered that mode and exited. It worked. Also, you may get a "Coding error" DTC for the ABS and ECU but those will go away once you disconnect the TCU. For the ABS (even after you code it correctly) you may also get a "test activated' code and ABS light. That will go away and the ABS light will go out after you go on a short drive. Good luck! |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2014, 03:44:06 AM »
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You do not need the TCU plugged in to recode  |
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
Email>PM
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