KBUR
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« on: March 02, 2013, 10:14:55 AM »
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Hi!
Being really, really smart, I moved too fast and suceeded in bricking my ECU in the EURO A6 Allroad 2.7t man. That's what you get when you're excited about your tune, want to upgrade and rely on the on-board voltage measurement - that's enough juice. Japp - stupid. But my pedal map rocked. Let's do that again soon...
Never mind, that leaves me with a car with a bricked ECU as you can expect.
Now I am criss-crossing the forum looking for information on if it is reasonable to solve this mess without a bench harness, which I do not have.
I guess I have tried all options of trying to get the ECU into boot mode. I guess there are too many parameters in play here: Windows version, cable, drivers for Galetto, order of disconnect, full battery disconnect, number of seconds to wait before removing ground from pin 24...
I saw some attempts to create a logical write-up of saving a bricked ECU, just to find later comments stating "well that didn't do a thing for me". So - is there a bit of magic involved or is it explainable?
If everything fails - what are the options to get to a driveable car again? As I live in Sweden, which kind of contact do I look for - a tuner, a discussion forum? What could a car shop do for me? (Probably a bad idea). Buy a used ECU? Or will that leave me in the same place, different ECU?
As i messed up my daily drive (again, I am smart) I will have to solve the issue within a couple of days rather than weeks.
Any advice or help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Klaas
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sweegie
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« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2013, 11:44:07 AM »
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Bricked ECU's suck bigtime, but you can fix yours easily with some basic tools and learn some recovery steps in the process. If i was in your situation, id be bench flashing using a few mini crocodile clip test leads and an old laptop power supply. I've done many ECU's this way before i built proper bench harnesses. Of course if you have a scrap yard near you, cutting the ECU plug of an old car is easier than messing around with test leads....  |
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« Last Edit: March 02, 2013, 11:48:12 AM by sweegie »
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nyet
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« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2013, 11:55:31 AM »
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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KBUR
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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2013, 12:45:31 PM »
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Thanks, a little hope is just what I need. Can you recommend a specific write-up? I think I've seen a couple around. Mini crocodile clamps I can buy tomorrow, and a power source I have. /Klaas Bricked ECU's suck bigtime, but you can fix yours easily with some basic tools and learn some recovery steps in the process. If i was in your situation, id be bench flashing using a few mini crocodile clip test leads and an old laptop power supply. I've done many ECU's this way before i built proper bench harnesses. Of course if you have a scrap yard near you, cutting the ECU plug of an old car is easier than messing around with test leads.... |
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KBUR
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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2013, 12:51:43 PM »
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Thanks Nyet! I saw your soldered switch in the other thread, smart solution. However, the pin 24 grounding does not work, would this still help or is the problem elsewhere (I know, between my ears, sorry for that)? /Klaas |
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sweegie
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« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2013, 12:59:24 PM »
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As far as i know, grounding pin24 is the only way to get into boot mode, either on the bench or in the car... Are you sure you're grounding the before switching on the ignition, then releasing after 2-3 seconds?
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KBUR
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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2013, 01:03:32 PM »
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I'll triplecheck again tomorrow... /k As far as i know, grounding pin24 is the only way to get into boot mode, either on the bench or in the car... Are you sure you're grounding the before switching on the ignition, then releasing after 2-3 seconds?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2013, 01:14:03 PM »
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There is one other pin you can use to get into bootmode, but pin 24 works everytime.
The pin circled in red, and the one right next to it can be bridged to enter bootmode, or just touch the one closest to the processor to ground (the circled pin that is)
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
Email>PM
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2013, 01:19:53 PM »
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or, you can use a pin on ram. thats how i do them.
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KBUR
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« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2013, 09:36:16 AM »
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Alrighty! After a visit in my local hardware store and a couple of hours soldering and testing, I can flash the ECU on the bench using a Galletto cable. I now officially declare this ECU UNBRICKED. However, the engine still won't start, and I cannot connect using the NEfmoto software once I connect the ECU in the car (quick and dirty - just the inner ECU case and the two main connectors.) Something I do miss, hmmm... So what did I do? 1) Boot mode (pin 24 to ground through 6k) - check 2) Galetto <ECU DATA> .... result "ECU number not found" 3) <Open file> 4) Select bin (my last working one) 5) <Download file> 6) 1 ... 100% 7) Unclear Italian comments that I should switch off the ignition for 10 seconds, ok I did that  Galetto closes the ECU and declares it is happy. 9) Shut down the 12V supply 10) Disconnect all crocs 11) Run to the car with a phony smile on my face 12) Connect ECU 13) Turn ignition key and try to start. 14) Engine turns, no start. 15) Clench fist, remove ECU and back to bench. I remember reading something about problems with flash but no start somewhere. Back to googling the forum... /K |
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nyet
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« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2013, 10:41:02 AM »
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Any codes?
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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KBUR
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« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2013, 11:06:41 AM »
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After installation of the FTDI drivers again, NefMote runs, but not stable.
Also, the IMMO may have come out to play.
Read 11 of 11 DTCs.
DTC: P1555 Status: 0x31 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0562 Status: 0x62 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0122 Status: 0x62 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0222 Status: 0x62 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0238 Status: 0x61 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0686 Status: 0x62 Unknown DTC
DTC: P0600 Status: 0x68 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0113 Status: 0x62 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0118 Status: 0x62 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0600 Status: 0x74 Decoding not licensed
DTC: P0600 Status: 0x68 Decoding not licensed
Reading all ECU DTCs succeeded.
/K
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KBUR
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« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2013, 11:26:32 AM »
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Nyet,
now you asked faster than I could structure my replies...
Once, I succeeded in flashing a complete bin in the car, with NefMoto software. However, directly after the successful flash, NefMoto could not connect again. I though "I'll be damned, is this the voltage problem again?", removed the ECU and went to my bench.
Galletto, again
* switch cables *
NefMoto - works initially, then connection trouble.
I checked the position of the crocs, eventually the croc with the voltage for pin 21 might have touched pin 40 as well. Ok, steadied the crocs, Galetto again, then NefMoto Flasher.
This resulted in the earlier post.
Hmm. Need a break to think.
/K
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KBUR
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« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2013, 12:04:33 PM »
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Hmmm, Nyet - how do you NOT tire of getting asked the same questions over and over? Found an earlier reply of yours:
"If it says immoblizer not authenticated, then that is most likely caused by trying to flash the ECU on the bench. When the ECU has the immobilizer enabled, it must be in communication with the immobilizer unit in the car, and the immobilizer data must be correct.
You will need to reinstall the ECU in the car, or disable the immobilizer data in the ECU."
Right, that's exactly what I did, so maybe a lot of the DTCs are fake and due to lack of connected components. However, the high boost pressure dtc has a natural explanation - I have not found the proper switch to raise the acceptance for the higher LDRXN. Discussed with one of my colleagues, but neither of us can remember fully how that is done. The maps he mentioned are not present in the Audi ECU. However, that's a question for later.
Question is do I have several problems or one central issue here?
So. Maybe start from half scratch and try flashing in the car again?
Any idea what to watch out for, what to do differently? I guess the IMMO thing should not be an issue as the ECU is the original?
/Klaas
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phila_dot
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« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2013, 12:59:31 PM »
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Are your checksums correct?
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