vwordie
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« Reply #45 on: May 24, 2013, 07:06:54 PM »
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« Last Edit: May 24, 2013, 07:10:25 PM by vwordie »
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shane0569
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« Reply #46 on: May 24, 2013, 07:56:42 PM »
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Okay, so I believe my N75 is good and so why doesn't 95% duty cycle give me as much boost as without the valve at all?
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userpike
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« Reply #47 on: May 24, 2013, 08:00:14 PM »
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WoW nice first post dude!! LOL |
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nyet
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« Reply #48 on: May 24, 2013, 08:02:50 PM »
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Okay, so I believe my N75 is good and so why doesn't 95% duty cycle give me as much boost as without the valve at all?
Perhaps your PCV is blocked? Try installing the N75, but vent the long leg to atmosphere? |
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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userpike
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« Reply #49 on: May 24, 2013, 09:40:15 PM »
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Okay, so I believe my N75 is good and so why doesn't 95% duty cycle give me as much boost as without the valve at all?
because your N75 is still bad probably. You can test it with an ohm meter, if it is between 27 and 30 ohms it's good, otherwise throw it away.. this is per the Bentley diagnostic instructions for the N75s equipped on 1.8t and 1.9t Golfs and Jettas Yours may be a different part number(last digit) but I think the check is the same for all of them. If I were you I would maybe Google it or something. They are pulse width modulated and are set to have a certain amount of resistance for the ECU to "use" the N75 "properly". Oh ya, you want to check it while its warm only. |
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shane0569
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« Reply #50 on: May 25, 2013, 06:48:40 PM »
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Perhaps your PCV is blocked? Try installing the N75, but vent the long leg to atmosphere?
I tried that, didn't really change anything. Today I also removed, checked and cleaned the PCV spider hose assembly while I was doing the cam tensioner and valve cover gaskets. Everything seems okay. The one thing that had me wondering was a green check valve immediately after the f-hose. It has an arrow on it (i believe to indicate airflow) pointing towards the f-hose, meaning that it should only allow flow towards the f-hose? (which would contain boost) But, when I blew on it, it allowed air to flow in the reverse direction of the arrow, and when I pulled vacuum on it, it would snap shut, not allowing flow. Doesn't this seem backwards? Are the arrows on these green valves supposed to indicate airflow direction? I have't logged again after cleaning the PCV system and doing valve cover gaskets, but I don't think it's quite right yet. Besides that check valve, the only other thing I'm thinking to try is bypassing N249? |
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shane0569
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« Reply #51 on: May 25, 2013, 06:52:20 PM »
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because your N75 is still bad probably.
You can test it with an ohm meter, if it is between 27 and 30 ohms it's good, otherwise throw it away.. this is per the Bentley diagnostic instructions for the N75s equipped on 1.8t and 1.9t Golfs and Jettas Yours may be a different part number(last digit) but I think the check is the same for all of them. If I were you I would maybe Google it or something. They are pulse width modulated and are set to have a certain amount of resistance for the ECU to "use" the N75 "properly".
Oh ya, you want to check it while its warm only.
I checked the original one from the car when I removed it. It was pretty hot/warm when I did, and it read 35 ohms. I read somewhere else that was at the top end of the normal range for those valves. 25-35 ohms I believe. I swapped it with another valve from my other 2.7t and it's still running the same (although I didn't check the resistance on that one yet, so it could be "bad" as well." |
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userpike
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« Reply #52 on: May 25, 2013, 11:40:00 PM »
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I checked the original one from the car when I removed it. It was pretty hot/warm when I did, and it read 35 ohms. I read somewhere else that was at the top end of the normal range for those valves. 25-35 ohms I believe. I swapped it with another valve from my other 2.7t and it's still running the same (although I didn't check the resistance on that one yet, so it could be "bad" as well."
Good luck! I hope you get it figured out soon. |
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shane0569
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« Reply #53 on: May 26, 2013, 01:11:04 PM »
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Thanks, me too!
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shane0569
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« Reply #54 on: May 28, 2013, 12:33:39 PM »
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Update...I found a bad green check valve just off the f-hose that must have been letting some boost go back into the low pressure side, so I replaced that with a good one. Still not getting full boost.
I put clamps on the vacuum/boost hoses that control the DVs, as I have not previously had them clamped. Thought that might be a source of a problem. At the same time, I replaced N75 with a used one that I got for a good price. Seems in better physical condition than the one I had currently. Resistance checked out ok, valve functionality checked out ok. After that I was running had to go right to work, so I didn't have a chance to log it yet. But, on my way to work, I got on it a bit, and sometimes on WOT it will stumble very bad, and the ABS and ESP lights come on simultaneously, but only for a few seconds, then they shut off. No wheel slip though, as this was in the higher gears.
Like I said I haven't logged it yet, and will tonight. Just curious if anyone knows what the ESP and ABS light coming on for a few seconds means?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #55 on: May 28, 2013, 12:36:54 PM »
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Log your MAF signal.
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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shane0569
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« Reply #56 on: May 28, 2013, 01:18:35 PM »
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Log your MAF signal.
Okay, will do. Does this indicate "limp mode"? |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #57 on: May 28, 2013, 01:21:17 PM »
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ABS/Check engine can be caused by a bad MAF signal. If you get logs, the problem will become apparent.
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
Email>PM
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shane0569
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« Reply #58 on: May 29, 2013, 12:48:54 PM »
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So, it literally won't do that anymore...which I guess is a good thing...
It must have had something going on with the fact that I was driving on the first start-up after changing the N75? I don't know...but I was doing MUCH more boost leak testing today and found some tiiinny leaks in a few places. I will log again.
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userpike
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« Reply #59 on: May 29, 2013, 01:49:39 PM »
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So, it literally won't do that anymore...which I guess is a good thing...
It must have had something going on with the fact that I was driving on the first start-up after changing the N75? I don't know...but I was doing MUCH more boost leak testing today and found some tiiinny leaks in a few places. I will log again.
The ecu was expecting the same "performance" from your changed out N75, once it realized something was different it recalibrated itself to use the new part. If you reset your adaption values on top of clearing all the DTCs( if there are any) you may get even better results than what you are currently experiencing. About the small boost leaks, they add up to be a big boost leak so its good you fixed them even though the ECU can adapt to small "leaks" in boost/vacuum. |
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