hmm... no "soapy water in a spray bottle" method? do another leak test...
how to get any results during this test if there is underpressur in the system?
What's the PCV system looking like? Are you absolutely sure the check valve between the intake and PCV system is closing properly during boost? If the vacuum amplifier in the PCV system is failing you'll get boost leakage into the PCV also. It doesn't take much for them to gum up and allow boost to leak.
OEM pcv system is out including pcv valve.
I changed pcv system to closed oil catch tank system
you can see it here on my car:
What about the pressure regulating valve that is mounted in the TIP? If it fails you'll get the boost leak dtc.
do you mean DV valve?
if yes, it is changed to new made by forge.
With your -18% trim the ECU is removing 18% of the fuel that it SHOULD need. This is happening because the air mass that is supposed to mix with that fuel is escaping the system somewhere. I know of no other explanation because you said the injectors are stock. If the number is positive the ECU is adding fuel to compensate for the extra air mass in the system (vacuum leak)
and what IF ecu by this -18% is removing fuel that SHOULDN'T be there?
my car is using more fuel during drive than it should, so maybe I realy have to rich mixture during normal daily drive?
during logs STFT is perfect, so you can even see on log that during making it my LTFT is getting better because of perfect STFT
but during normal city drive STFT values goes to big minus values. In my opinion this is the cause of my big LTFT,
but I still can't find why my STFT goes down during calm daily city drive.
Is injector time value correct on my log?
Maybe there is any other sensor connected with fueling or air in car that is broken and gives wrong values to ecu so injectors have wrong timing during city drive?
In my opinion injectors are fine but are working wrong because of ecu. Is this theory possible?
How about stock ecu?
you think that my stock ecu can be damaged
What I believe is
1) FPR stuck
nope - like I said - I swapped my fpr with one from car with no trim problems - and I still got same trim problem after ecu reset on my car
so it's definitly not a fpr fault
2) wrong MAF sensor
nope, bought 2 OEM factory new bosh maf dedicated by numbers for my car
3) mapping issue
what do you mean ? and how can I check it ?
Please post your ECU file here
I will
There are no leaks because the LTFT is -18% so ecu removes fuel. When you have leaks MAF counts lower and ECU adds fuel so it should be +18% for leaks!
yeap, I also think that this is not a leak problem,
but like I wrote before I double checked it anyway
I want to add in here that you should perform the leak testing on a fully warmed up engine. It's a PITA but sometimes leaks only happen when the engine is hot. Also, utilize a test pressure much higher than you ever intend on the turbocharger boosting. Use the "soapy water in a spray bottle" boost leak detection method and watch for bubbles!
hmm on hot engine? I will try it
Is there any sense in this soapy water leak test here?
I mean there is underpressure in the system so I won't see aby bubbles anyway...
Am I wrong here? How should I perform this test with underpressure in the system?
thanks I know this one, and a few more, including OEM bosh service manual.
I understand the theory - I mean I know how it works,
what I don't know is how exacly LTFT value is creating by the ECU,
are there any car sensors (more than maf and o2) connected with the proces so I can check it?
