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Author Topic: Reading/writing/cloning your immobilizer: A beginners guide.  (Read 205017 times)
tompetty
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« Reply #75 on: April 27, 2015, 10:42:39 AM »

Thanks for the response. I've got the ecu side figured out but it's the KKL cable I am questioning. I don't know where pin #1 is. Is it top left if looking at the pins or top left on the wire side of the plug? Sorry if I am not explaining myself well. I hope I am being clear lol.

The pinout above is on the ECU socket, if you look closely into the ECU you can see the numbers on the pins
« Last Edit: April 27, 2015, 11:01:35 AM by tompetty » Logged
tompetty
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« Reply #76 on: April 27, 2015, 06:38:39 PM »

Ok, so I'm not sure if I mentioned it or not but I am the ultimate NOOB when it comes to CMD. I am doing my best to learn by reading all I can here and watching some youtube vids. I decided to just try and read the eprom over the OBD port in the car (not trying to get into bootmode) just to get a feel for the program. I've attached a screenshot showing my result. If someone would be so kind and maybe help walk me through this I would be truly greatful. I am doing my best not to just ask for the IMMO off. I would like to learn how to edit it myself but haven't a clue where to start. If I am not mistaken, it is trying to access the ecu in bootmode? The way I understand things is that you don't have to be in bootmode to read the ecu over the OBD. Am I incorrect?

« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 09:21:57 AM by tompetty » Logged
tompetty
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« Reply #77 on: April 28, 2015, 01:33:48 PM »

So I tried again this time trying to get the ecu into boot mode. I grounded pin 24, turned on the ignition, waited 3 secs or so then removed ground from pin 24. Same result as the screen shot above. I then tried the same process using every baud rate option, still no dice. Tried leaving the ground on pin 24 longer, no dice. I know its grounding because the fuel pump doesn't prime and the sensors don't make noise as noted by the OP on page one. Once I pull the ground from pin 24 the are audible noises from sensors in the engine bay but I cannot seem to get the ecu into boot mode. At this point I am completely stumped (as if it was possible to be more confused than I already am) and don't know what to do. If starting another thread would be beneficial someone just say so. I don't want to clutter the board more than necessary.
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316LV
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« Reply #78 on: April 28, 2015, 09:01:28 PM »

Thanks for the response. I've got the ecu side figured out but it's the KKL cable I am questioning. I don't know where pin #1 is. Is it top left if looking at the pins or top left on the wire side of the plug? Sorry if I am not explaining myself well. I hope I am being clear lol.


The pictures are both sockets. Imagine that as the OBD socket on your car not your cable.
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tompetty
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« Reply #79 on: April 29, 2015, 12:49:36 AM »

The pictures are both sockets. Imagine that as the OBD socket on your car not your cable.

Thank you. Your explanation is a lot easier to understand than the way I was trying to describe it.
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tompetty
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« Reply #80 on: April 29, 2015, 11:52:11 AM »

I don't think I mentioned why I needed to do this and hopefully it helps someone similar to myself in the future. I have 2001 VR6 Jetta that was misfiring on cylinder #1. After much troubleshooting it turned out to be the injector driver in the ecu. I purchased a used ecu from the same model car thinking much like Hondas that the ecus are interchangeable. Obviously that isn't the case which after many local quotes of $150+ for an IMMO off led me here. Having no CMD experience the task seemd daunting but this site was a huge help. I documented in posts above about not being able to read the ecu over the in car OBD port. After making a jumper harness and getting boot mode on the bench here are my results.

I was able to read and save the 95040.bin off of the bad ecu which matches the cluster and key



Initially I couldn't get it to write but after switching the baud rate I was able to write the 95040.bin from the bad ecu to the new to me used one



At this point I was elated but cautiously optimistic about it working in the car. I am happy to report that it did. It fired right up with no misfire. These are prob baby steps for most but I am pretty proud of myself lol. Just thought I would share and thank everyone on this topic and forum who takes the time to post and create a library of information that can be used by NOOBS like me.

Thanks again.

-Ryan



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316LV
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« Reply #81 on: May 05, 2015, 10:52:55 AM »

Well done! You should feel proud. I was pretty elated to clone my ECU too. It isn't much in the scheme of things, but look at the result. You have a working car again for the cost of a used ECU! That is awesome when you think about it...

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tompetty
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« Reply #82 on: May 06, 2015, 01:35:16 PM »

Well done! You should feel proud. I was pretty elated to clone my ECU too. It isn't much in the scheme of things, but look at the result. You have a working car again for the cost of a used ECU! That is awesome when you think about it...



Exactly. Only prob now is the ecu was out of an automatic and is searching for the auto trans leaving me with a CEL lol. Next stop, coding.........
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GhostxFx
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« Reply #83 on: July 04, 2015, 09:16:50 AM »

It workd  Grin But how do i make the hazard warning lights stop?
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tjwasiak
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« Reply #84 on: July 04, 2015, 09:26:30 AM »

It workd  Grin But how do i make the hazard warning lights stop?
What car? Which ECU?
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GhostxFx
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« Reply #85 on: July 04, 2015, 12:25:13 PM »

A4 1.8t bosh me7.5
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tjwasiak
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« Reply #86 on: July 04, 2015, 02:30:42 PM »

Are you using proper ECU for your car?
Does it have proper communication with other modules on CAN?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #87 on: July 04, 2015, 10:15:35 PM »

If the key matches the cluster, you won't have any hazard lights.

If the key does NOT match, welcome to hell.

Only option is to adapt it all.
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Mechsoldier
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« Reply #88 on: July 05, 2015, 02:41:42 PM »

If the key matches the cluster, you won't have any hazard lights.

If the key does NOT match, welcome to hell.

Only option is to adapt it all.

You can pretty easily open the cluster up and desolder the light, or slip a piece of plastic over it, on many of the clusters I have done.


A word of advice. I spent 17 hours or so trying to get this program to work using a variety of cables, including a true hex can vcds cable, a real vag tacho cable, a fake vag tacho cable, chinese vag k can, chinese vag commander, and probably a couple others. NONE of them worked for boot mode, best I could do was the real licensed VCDS Hex Can cable was able to read in OBD mode.

I also tried on Windows 7 and Xp. In the end, the blue KKL cable with the horseshoe looking emblem and the CE sticker under it is what worked for me, easily using Vista Driver CDM 2.04.15 WHQL drivers I got off this site. So if you're having issues, I suggest just buy the 9 dollar with shipping cable, or find somebody to borrow from. Because nothing else worked for me.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #89 on: July 05, 2015, 02:51:08 PM »

And on the B6 and up that display SAFE on the cluster, as well as non stop hazard lights? Lot of desoldering there Tongue
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