I have posted a xdf for the C-Box with the needed variables included in the definition section. Are you sure you can just throw them out (your tune doesn't need them)? Do you have an EGT gauge? 

http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php/topic,339.0title,.html

Have you already logged your EGTs with a EGT gauge or something?
If I remember right you don't have the EGT messure block with the C-Box.
I don't know how MRC calibrates their stuff, but in general if you code out the EGT sensors you have to make sure that you don't run too high EGTs otherwise you will .... up your engine pretty quick.

To your question on audizine regarding testing the sensors with a multimeter:
It's not possible to do that. The sensor is a Typ N thermocouple. It is usually not the thermocouple that fails but the sensor electronics. The signal for the ECU is a 100Hz PWM that is varried between 945-1050

The failures of the sensors have nothing to do with EGTs, but how do you know what EGTs you are running?

I can understand your frustration with this. I have coded out the sensors for the same reason as well. But I run on E85 all the time which is less critical with the lower EGTs.

My point on this is, that anyone has to be clear that he throws out a major safety feature for his engine if the sensors are coded out. I wouldn't do that if I would not have an other way to have an eye on EGTs (for example aftermarket gauge). There are many scenarios which can lead to too high EGts even if the initial tuning was spot on, especially on binary lambda sensor cars.

I use the stock sensor thermocouples hooked up to an amplifier that puts out a 0-10V signal I can display and log with my Labview based logging system.

What about this idea I have , tell me if it's stupid! And maybe something better with the above in mind...

Here we go :

We have 2 EGT sensors in the car ! If both of them take a crap it's 400€ and you go insane !

I asked for pro's and contra's on coding them out BUT yesterday I was in my buddies S2 , we did some extreme pulls over 280km/h and his EGT's rised to 1020° ! Opened the hood and everything was glowing orange , very nice to see but this made me think about the importance of an EGT meter cause his KMS standalone does what the ME7 does in our cars and add fuel quickly to cool things down, if that feature wasn't on there he would have melted everything last night

So now that I understand that I was thinking what if we keep 1 OEM EGT, the passenger side (for you guys driver side) cause that’s the easy one to replace and keep all the features like dumping fuel to keep it all cool and being a safeguard for the engine , decoding the other one and put a 100€ EGT gauge in there just to monitor in the car?

ORRR am I thinking wrong and will the S4 normally not produce +950° on highway pulls and can I have em both coded out and put 1 gauge in there with a limiter that let’s me know when things get hot?

Cause the OEM dumps fuel in there to cool things down or limp the car when it goes + 940 ? Whereas having em decoded nothing will dump fuel in there and you just have to come off the gas to cool down the exhaust temps!

Last but not least, will loosing my 400cell Catalysts and add W/M help turn down the EGT’s a lot ?
Yeah I know lot of questions but I’m trying to get a lot of knowledge about these cars and how everything works

Sometimes, this fault (implausible signal) is appear due to faulty lambda probe. I remember official paper from VAG about this.

But yes, in my experience, new EGT sensors is ruined after about 2-4 month after installation (about 5 cars with such situation). Very bad quality!

You can try to open and re-solder your EGT sensors, in some case, this will help.