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ddillenger
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« on: February 01, 2014, 01:59:42 PM »
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I don't need any of the standard conjecture here. I'm trying to hear facts.
I'm in the process of building my engine and don't need to be doing it twice. Right now, here's where I'm at:
Late model block w/eurospec studs
Stock pistons
Chinese rods
JE Nickel Carbon Steel wrist pins
Goetze rings
Stock crankshaft riding on Coated Glyco bearings
Billet LWFW
Fresh 2.8 heads with Iconel exhaust valves, supertech springs/seats/retainers
RS4 cams
I plan on balancing 50/50 (stock is 60/40 IIRC), and running GT2871R eliminators.
I'd like to know what to expect in terms of the next week link. I have 0 intentions of running E85, I have direct port meth injection and 94 octane right down the road. The way I see it most of these block failures have been tuned for E85 without a dyno and were likely running retarded (read: exceeding MBT) timing.
Pick my build apart, help me make it better before it's completed and I'm left in utter disappointment. I'd rather spend the money now than spend twice as much fixing something I overlooked the first time.
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em.Euro.R18
Full Member
Karma: +4/-5
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Posts: 219
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« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2014, 01:01:02 PM »
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Most 2.7t's stock bottom end, I've seen to this point running robust setups (up to 6766) on e85 most failures happen at the rods. Most recent 2.7t I've seen was running some pretty aggressive timing throughout the curve. I havn't had alot of experience with e85 but from what I've read, its LESS susceptible to knock(for obvious reasons). When the mix flash point is hit.... you know the rest. I say keep a smooth curve to the torque delivery and run aggressive timing within reason. 8500rpm shouldn't be a problem dependent on the bearings you used. You'll be fine just my 2 cents.
Almost forgot... I prefer using rifle drilled rods for high revs and longevity.
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« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 02:01:23 PM by em.Euro.R18 »
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nyet
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2014, 01:21:37 PM »
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got a target C/R?
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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phila_dot
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2014, 01:43:32 PM »
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Where'd you get the wrist pins?
Any truth to the Glyco bearings being far inferior to OEM?
Which LWFW?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2014, 01:56:02 PM »
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I got the pins direct from JE. http://www.jepistons.com/Products/787-2250-18-PTC.aspxI also bought some C-350 Steel Casidiam (DLC) coated Precision Products Nascar (lol) pins, they're lighter, but they're also only 2" long (vs stock 2.25). We'll see what the machine shop says about them. Target CR is 8.5:1 As for the Glyco bearings, I've used them for years in everything from Diesels making 1500+tq, to stock rebuilds. Never an issue. LWFW is tricky, I have 2. One Fidanza, and one for my tilton. |
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« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 02:01:50 PM by ddillenger »
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phila_dot
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« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2014, 02:10:02 PM »
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How are you planning on hitting 8.5:1 with stock pistons?
I've only seen 1/2 point and full point spacers.
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prj
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« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2014, 02:20:44 PM »
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Also, you do not need this kind of RPM for those turbos. Not even close.
The 2.7TT is like any other 5v head. Do the springs and the exhaust valves and you can rev over 8k no problem.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2014, 02:28:50 PM »
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034 has the .7 point spacers on their site, I ordered (and received) them months ago. As for the RPM, my needs didn't really factor in. I don't NEED big turbos at all. I sure like them though  |
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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phila_dot
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2014, 02:50:56 PM »
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Oh ok, I haven't seen them.
I don't think you are asking for trouble. Everyone wants to talk about these inevitable main failures at 600wtq, but there have only been a small few and the details are questionable.
Any failsafe planned for the direct port meth?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2014, 04:39:01 PM »
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No failsafe as of yet. I'll be running KR based enrichment, and checking my tank regularly. My truck had meth for the longest time, and if you let it run out while towing (heavy) you were sure to meltdown. As such, I'm religious about checking my levels (and a 10 gallon tank won't hurt). I figure I'll run your map switching program. When the low meth light comes on, I'll change to my 93 map. I don't really see myself needing to run meth all the time considering the size of the turbos. It's not like it'll be anemic without it.
For gauges I have Dual Bank wideband, Dual bank EGT probes, and fuel pressure. I'm considering a backpressure setup as well, but we'll see.
Thoughts on what I can expect for HP/TQ on this setup? I don't like making estimates, but the only other car I've tuned with GT's was a 2560 car (and even that felt impressive).
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« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 04:43:15 PM by ddillenger »
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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prj
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« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2014, 04:53:33 PM »
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Get Aquamist HFS-3 and forget stupid issues like checking tanks and other yadda yadda |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2014, 05:03:50 PM »
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I'll be using the N335 output from the ecu to control the meth activation via KFLUKL and VLUKL.
As far as checking the tank, I'll do it whenever I get gas. Not a big deal for me.
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
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userpike
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« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2014, 05:21:36 PM »
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I'll be using the N335 output from the ecu to control the meth activation via KFLUKL and VLUKL.
As far as checking the tank, I'll do it whenever I get gas. Not a big deal for me.
I've seen carnage pics of the keyway for the timing pulley on the crankshaft sheared off because of high rpm. USPMotorsports had problems with flywheel bolts snapping off before they installed a Fluidampr. There are these friction washers available to put between the flywheel and crank, timing pulleys and crank pulleys to keep them from slipping. Not sure but assuming the 2.7tt cams are about the same construction as the 1.8t cams, Integrated Engineering welds the cam chain sprockets on the 1.8t cams because they slip @ high rpm. |
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« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 08:56:29 AM by userpike »
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userpike
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« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2014, 09:52:11 PM »
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which Chinese rods are you running?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2014, 09:54:18 PM »
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
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DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
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