65vetteC6
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« on: May 01, 2014, 08:16:02 AM »
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I swapped a 2.7t into a B6 S4 and did a single turbo conversion at the same time. Im not positive what year the motor came out of but I think 2000 since it was wired for a Bosch MAF. I am using 034 MAF so I have to rewire it any way. I picked up a M box ecu from ebay to flash the box with software I got from a tuner since I have larger injectors. Car starts but dies pretty quickly so I currently have the MAF unplugged but have no throttle. I am positive the TB is functioning, could the ecu be bad? Or could the tune be the cause of this?
Thanks in advance.
Edit: Guess I should add some of the codes that poped up too,
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1544 - 35-00 - Signal too Large
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 35-00 -
17977 - Cruise Control Switch (E45)
P1569 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
P0238 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller
P1545 - 35-10 - Malfunction - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
18058 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1650 - 35-10 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster - Intermittent
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« Last Edit: May 01, 2014, 09:20:03 AM by 65vetteC6 »
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ddillenger
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2014, 08:57:52 AM »
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Time to check measuring blocks to verify the TPS on the pedal are working.
If they are not, open the ecu and take a high res photo of the board. Chances are the trace for the TB is shot and will look overheated.
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zillarob
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2014, 06:52:01 PM »
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When I was doing this swap, I remember 2 different pinouts for the tbody or pedal wires in the daigrams.
Cant remember how I figured out which one to use, but it worked.
Might want to double check you used the right one.
I havent hooked up the cruise yet, but never got that code.
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« Last Edit: May 01, 2014, 06:55:27 PM by zillarob »
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65vetteC6
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2014, 07:05:37 PM »
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Time to check measuring blocks to verify the TPS on the pedal are working.
If they are not, open the ecu and take a high res photo of the board. Chances are the trace for the TB is shot and will look overheated.
Block 60 correct? The are both show the position changing when I step on the throttle in a stock ecu. When I switch in the tuned one they both show 100% and will not change and there is an error in throttle adpation column and the 3rd column said 1. What is the general location that I should take a picture of? |
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« Last Edit: May 01, 2014, 07:07:13 PM by 65vetteC6 »
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65vetteC6
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« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2014, 07:06:43 PM »
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When I was doing this swap, I remember 2 different pinouts for the tbody or pedal wires in the daigrams.
Cant remember how I figured out which one to use, but it worked.
Might want to double check you used the right one.
I havent hooked up the cruise yet, but never got that code.
The cruise control code should be gone now. I can hear and see the throttle body move when the car is in accessory mode with the stock ecu so I know my wiring is correct. |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2014, 07:12:46 PM »
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The bottom of the board  If you see one trace with the paint burnt off, that'd be your issue. Take a good photo for me. |
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65vetteC6
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2014, 04:45:50 AM »
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ddillenger
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« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2014, 07:08:17 AM »
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I don't really see anything out of the ordinary, but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Do you have a spare ecu to try? The fact that your old one causes the TB to cycle and the new one not leads me to conclude you have a hardware problem, not wiring. If you want to send me the ecu I can swap out the driver board and trace the circuit, or you can get another ecu (I have a few if necessary). Shoot me an email (it's in my sig).
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65vetteC6
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2014, 07:15:55 AM »
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I don't really see anything out of the ordinary, but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Do you have a spare ecu to try? The fact that your old one causes the TB to cycle and the new one not leads me to conclude you have a hardware problem, not wiring. If you want to send me the ecu I can swap out the driver board and trace the circuit, or you can get another ecu (I have a few if necessary). Shoot me an email (it's in my sig).
Just got a loaner from a friend last night so I will tune it and give it a try tonight. |
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zillarob
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2014, 10:22:34 PM »
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Can def be tough to diag with so many changes, hope the new one makes it happen! OT daz, but while we wait, the lower of the 2 larger chips on the upper right of this pic:  B1S1 heater ground, ecu pin 63. I see continuity on the 3rd and 4th pins from the right on the upper row. Is this chip capable of sinking heater current and monitoring the circuit? Have a persistent heater code that wont go away, even when swapping connectors (in another car). |
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ddillenger
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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2014, 10:43:59 PM »
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From what I recall, that should be a 30344. I forget which does which, but one is N75/injectors. I have to find my notes.
Which code do you have?
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ddillenger
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« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2014, 10:56:09 PM »
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Also, the one BELOW the middle one on the right is for the TB/TPS electronics.
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zillarob
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2014, 11:33:11 PM »
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Its a dif ecu, I was just poking at an s4 one because I had it handy.
I was expecting to find some kind of fet that switched ground to the heater, but only those two legs on the mp had continuity.
Seems like a lot for that thing to sink. Ill have pull the other one out and see if I can let the rest of the smoke out of it!
Cant remember exactly, but think it was a heater circuit code. It stayed on the same bank even after swapping the sensor plugs. Other side was good, and stayed good after being swapped.
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65vetteC6
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2014, 06:41:08 AM »
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Well the loaner ecu worked fine, must have been an issue with the ecu.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2014, 07:12:18 AM »
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Rob, you might have a bad MOSFET. Start there.
vette, glad to hear!
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