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Author Topic: 1981 VW T3 1.8turbo build  (Read 127664 times)
TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #165 on: April 22, 2017, 12:15:20 PM »

Bought another car today, setting the 1.8t counter on 3  Cheesy
Its a 2001 AUM, with a blown turbo. A bit like a real 007 gadget with smoke screen on demand (boost). My wife will be driving it, so I will just install an old turbo that I have left from the gt2860r TT. More downtime for the turbo bus yeah  Grin
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TijnCU
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« Reply #166 on: July 06, 2017, 04:42:22 AM »

After about 340.000km, the engine finally gave.
I lost all compression on cilinder 1, I checked the valves with a scope but cant really determine if they are bent too bad. I still drive the car a few times a week untill she blows up or untill my new engine is finished, what ever comes first. It still wants to rev to 6800rpm and I can still drive over 150km/h, but idle sounds like a classic VW engine.. good for me it is in an old vw :-)
Compression results of all cylinders: 1.5 - 6 - 6 - 7 bar. Amazing it still puts out enough power to drive  Grin
I have cleaned the pistons on my new block and assembled new Götze rings, honed the block, attached rods and new KS sputter bearings.
All valves are cleaned / polished, and I am currently awaiting my piston installation tool and valve lapping stuff. Hope to put the new engine together in the upcoming week or so. Will be fitted with the new hybrid ofcourse, so I should be looking at a nice overall power increase.










The A3 is running great, I am doing boost linearisation runs on it now to finalize the tune. I did a map switching set of stock, power and economical, and I get 15.2km per litre on average now! (130km/h highway and around 80-100km/h on most B roads). So despite good 200hp tune, mostly driving  on 0%wg like a grandma Grin
« Last Edit: July 06, 2017, 04:58:29 AM by TijnCU » Logged

TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #167 on: September 28, 2017, 02:10:17 PM »

Head is ready for mild porting, K04 hybrid is up for sale. I decided to sell the manifold and turbo because I want to step up to a true twin scroll gt3071. Its always more fun to build stuff I think, and the turbo is laying around for ages collecting dust. I have had some interest in it, so hopefully I can sell it soon. Price is 1200€ for the manifold + turbo + gaskets and 0.8bar wastegate actuator, if anyone here is interested. Thought that was a decent price for a custom longitudinal kit with tubular.
Anyways, if I get to ordering new stuff I will update this page. Also I have seen photobucket fucked the internet by removing all 3rd party links, so I will try to relocate my albums to somewhere else.
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TijnCU
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« Reply #168 on: December 11, 2017, 03:24:22 AM »

K04 is sold, gt3071 is on the way. I will put on a billet wheel and twin scroll housing later, first I need to finish the engine and build a manifold. I still need valvesprings, thinking to go for the Rosten kit.
Looking forward to driving it with power again, currently the old engine is still working and going strong on 3 cilinders every day  Huh Grin full 1 bar boost by 3500 rpm on a k03 yoo.
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TijnCU
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« Reply #169 on: December 18, 2017, 07:25:23 AM »

If someone wants to share their vision on valves...
In the vag tuning scene it is very common that people install stainless or inconel valves when rebuilding their heads. In other cases people are very happy with sodium filled valves and these are considered an upgrade over one piece valves because of heat dissipation as well as weight saving (for example 4g63 evo). Even our B5 RS4 as the same exhaust valves. Now, I am going to install stonger springs in my head in any case, but I am not decided on changing the valves just yet. I feel that both stainless and inconel might be a bad upgrade because of the increased heat that will be put in the valve seat. Weight is less of a concern with the stronger springs I guess. The reason I do the springs is just because of the fact I dont want to use old worn springs and the rev limit will probably be around 8000 rpm (judging by the compressor map).

oh, and its here  Grin
Kind of special compressor wheel on it, looks more like a hta73 clone.. anyone that knows what it compares to?
53mm inducer, 73mm exducer, 77.5mm ett 7+7 24mm blade height 15mm hub
« Last Edit: December 20, 2017, 02:00:05 AM by TijnCU » Logged

TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #170 on: January 02, 2018, 02:59:18 AM »

Did some cleanup on the compressor housing, smoothed the surge port edges a bit and a quick polish.
I have bought a .82 twin scroll housing too, should be interesting to swap the housings on the dyno to see the difference in spool and flow compared to the open scroll .63
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prj
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« Reply #171 on: January 05, 2018, 09:08:11 PM »

The reason why the sodium valves are removed is because when stiffer springs are installed they are hit harder and sodium filled valves are more brittle.
RS4 is nothing special because the max safe rev limit is 7200 RPM on stock head.

It is actually the intake valves that have the soft springs and give issues, so for an easy RPM bump it's enough to replace them.
Doing it correctly you need both intakes and exhausts and then you need to change the exhaust valves to withstand the bigger forces exerted on them.
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TijnCU
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« Reply #172 on: January 06, 2018, 01:26:22 AM »

Thanks for your reply! I initially thought about this, but I figured the valves would still follow the cams and this would be a lot less destructive compared to a floating valve. What would you advise your customers for lpg powered daily driven cars? Would a staibless valve be durable enough?
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TijnCU
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« Reply #173 on: January 13, 2018, 07:09:37 AM »

I am also thinking ahead on how I am going to get enough LPG in the engine with the big turbo, because the choises on injectors are a bit limited. There are larger truck injectors on the market, but they have slow opening/closing times so I am sure there will be no way the engine will idle at lambda 1. That is no option for me, because I need the car to pass the inspection and also because it is a waste of fuel. The other option is to make a staged system, and I am really considering this. A simple way would be to link the ground wires (trigger) together with the gas injector loom but feed 12v to the second stage from the ECU, for example from the SAI pump. Ofcourse combined with a halved krkte and triggered from rpm or load. Not sure if the gas controller can survive a double injector on a single trigger though, but if not I suppose I could move up to a 8 cilinder controller. There are not many examples on higher power small LPG engines that I have found (in fact did not find any) so it is a bit of an adventure. But I am sure I'll manage, just go step by step.
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prj
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« Reply #174 on: January 13, 2018, 08:45:16 AM »

You also have a boost limit due to the evaporator pressure.

If you want to make bigger power in LPG it is best to inject liquid, not gas.
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TijnCU
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« Reply #175 on: January 13, 2018, 10:09:34 AM »

Yes you are right about choke flow but I should not have issues with my goals for boost. My evaporator is rising rate and I have only 1.4 bar base rail pressure (that should currently net enough injector for 240hp). I have seen well over 1.5 bar boost and no problems with lpg delivery at all.

On the other side I really like the liquid injection concept, and must confess that I did not even consider it yet. Mostly due to the fact I only knew about prins and vialle systems (not good for high power) but after a quick search I see that a lot of companies are making liquid injection kits now. I will look more into it, if there is a 500hp capable external pump kit that might be the way forward..

To add on this after reading on about choke flow, what I have gathered there should not be any problems with injector flow up to at least 1.7 PR (butane).  My current injectors are limited to 4 bar maximum working pressure, so if I want to run 2.5 bar boost I can not exceed 1.5 bar base rail pressure and have a 1.43PR at maximum boost in result (accounted for atmospheric). The Barracuda lpg injectors are slightly better flowing and can handle up to 4.5 bar, so if I would buy 8 of those I could go for 2 bar base pressure and end up at 1.57PR with maximum boost. My reducer can not support 2 bar base pressure though (nor the maximum power output), but I found an Australian made reducer (AMR M7) that is rated for 2.7bar outlet pressure and 575hp. Concluding, there might be some options with vapour injection still that would cost me a lot less money converting, however lacking the nice evaporative cooling you obviously get from liquid injection.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2018, 12:09:29 PM by TijnCU » Logged

TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #176 on: January 30, 2018, 03:10:45 PM »

After much debate (in my mind) I ordered a set of Mahle exhaust valves. I had been watching both Supertech and Ferrea, but I just think they are just too expensive for my application. Then I had contact with Rosten performance, that sold me the uprated valvespring kit, and he mentioned his performance valves come from Mahle and he never had one perform less than any Supertech or Ferrea valve that he sold before. This kind of opened my eyes for other brands, and as it turned out I could get a nice deal on these valves through a German supplier. These valves are bi-metal CrMnNi head / CrSi stem but not hollow, and are recommended for the highest thermal and mechanical requirements by Mahle. Part number is 029VA30519000, we will see how they hold up in the future  Smiley
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armageddon
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« Reply #177 on: January 30, 2018, 03:28:31 PM »

A friend broke a Rosten performance spring at idle on a RS4, this after a complete engine rebuild. luckily, no damage was done.
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #178 on: April 16, 2018, 04:51:59 AM »

Everything can break. For me this is the most money I am willing to spend on this engine, and I am sure it will be just fine.
The AEB head was port matched and cleaned up a bit, no major port work. All valves lapped in and installed with the new springs, and cams back in including VVT tensioner. The head is now back on the block, waiting for more free time to complete the installation  Smiley *added clean valve cover and temporary manifold, awaiting tool steel dowels for pinning the crank gear after which I will complete the belt side of the engine.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2018, 02:18:49 AM by TijnCU » Logged

mister t
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« Reply #179 on: June 19, 2018, 01:19:30 PM »

A friend broke a Rosten performance spring at idle on a RS4, this after a complete engine rebuild. luckily, no damage was done.

I had a set of Rosten springs on my 1.8T and they worked phenomenally well. I was boosting 30+PSI on a 60-1 and later, a Comp 5556 (flows between a GT3076 and GT3582) I also regularly wound the motor out to 8000 RPM.

So long story short, I wouldn't hesitate to run the Rosten springs.

Phenomenal build by the way!!!
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