Im going to attempt to tackle a base file then go from there for a 1.8T Me7.5
I haven't found any real straight forward probably wont for the 1.8t platform
Also, have a unitronic big turbo for a back up ecu that I will be using until I find Im ready

Hardware: CTS Big turbo kit Turbo: Percesion 5431
                Eurojet Race Front Mount Intercooler- 2.5" piping
                830cc Delphi Injectors
                Walbro 255
                80MM Hemi Throttle body
                3" turboback
                FX400 6 puck Clutch
                VR6 MAF

My Plans for the map so far and I will continue adding as I continue to find more information throughout the forum. IF

ANYONE WANTS TO POST LINK TO SOLID INFORMATION DO SO PLEASE

My Plan:
Tackle timing at first will be reducing
KFZW/KFZW2  by -6 or -7 The entire map I do not want to risk since im still on stock block so I do not want to risk

anything with a lot more power.

Then Fuel-
LAMFA- Will Shape this towards the spool then full boost ill aim for 11.4-11.6 AFR
KFLBTS- Will do the same as above
KFFDLBTS- set entire map to 0
TABGBTS- Raise Limit or Lower Limit? To what still need to research this. Someone can chime in?

Injectors-
KRKTE- Correct this to the 830cc injectors
TVUB- fix this also to idle like a charm
KFMRES/KFMRESK- idle torque reserve to help with Injectors and 80mm tb to idle
 
Idle-
NLLM/NFSM- raise idle slightly to help with the light flywheel, injectors, and huge tb

MAF-
MLHFM- Vr6 Maf so going to grab the table from a vr6 bin file

Load maps-
KFMIRL- will shave down the mid range  currently will only be running 12-14psi so stock map might alright?
KFMIOP- raise upper limits reflect from KFMIRL simply going to use Me7 tuning wizard for this.
KFTARX- set to 1 across
KFLDHBN- set to highest value

Boost/ Wastegate/ PID  
This is where I am confused.
Start LDRXN most likely wont see boost till around 3500 then past it will spool quickly and hold 12 or 14 psi

Now I am not going to be running N75 valve rather going to use AEM TruBoost ebc
From what I read on the forum to eliminate the N75 valve you have 0 out KFLDIMX and KFLDRL not sure if this is correct.

This is where Im confused as to tuning wastegate duty cycle to smooth out boost
Also, Do I use stock boost PID tables as well?

Next Thing Throttle Body also.

-KFZW figured -7 from the entire table wasn't right but just wasn't positive if it still followed similar to stock turbo?
-TARGETBTS makes sense I guess I was over thinking that
-TVUB will have to find this then will use tuning wizard for KRKTE then play with FKKVS
-IRL/IOP will have to look into this further Ive been looking at the stickied thread but information doesn't seem to catch in my head need something little bit more simpler
-I wanted to delete the N75 valve completely and put in the truboost 3 port sensor ebc instead because I have no where to put the N75 into my intake due to it just being a 3 inch 90 degree pipe and running a external waste gate. I ran a manual boost controller on my brothers setup but he was just running 630cc mafless Unitronics tune. I just have plans of running high 20s then maybe low 30 psi with a lot of meth. And stock n75 wont do that. However is this capable to put the sensor inline to run the 24+ psi later on. And for now you think the bottom port of the n75 can just put a filter on because I really don't want to ruin my intake with welding vacuum nipples all over it.

Thanks for the input! 

N75 can do 2.0 bar . Eitherway boost controller is not a bad idea , just listen to me and leave the N75 plugged even with no hose connections..It will save you a lot of trouble .

About Ign Timing you will need a lot of logging and as engine_nerd said think about timin at low loads ,does it really have to be that different from stock ?

ATM stock bottom end and head I have a spare block I need to take to a machine shop to see if its usable if money allows I would like to do a 2.0 stroker. However someone offered me a pretty decent price for my current GTI so I think ill be letting it go if everything checks out. But I also have a jetta which all the big turbo parts came off of but the motor has very low compression 140 across and a bitch to spool this turbo. So I think Im going to end up redoing that motor and putting everything back into the jetta if the sale goes through. So this should allow me to do a lot more reading and understanding. I don't think Ill fully comprehend until i put it together and see the reaction with the big turbo though. As far a the N75 that would allow me to do boost by gear then correct? Im tired of spinning entirely through first and second that just gets pretty annoying quickly.
As far as timing you do make a point it won't make very much low load so stock time should be fine until higher load/higher rpm

Also I wasn't sure to ether 0 out or 1.0 entire BTS I would feel better with 1.00 the entire map and conservative LAMFA you mean by running richer then 11 or aim for 11 then lean out a little when every things said and done

Only thing I'm having trouble with is finding TVUB for the injectors will have to search to find how to calculate or find these values.
Also FKKVS is more for part throttle far correction for the injectors because it is pushing that much more even at low loads this is the factor that makes it run nice parts throttle correct? Thats how I am taking a view on this.

I also was searching throughout the forum about KFVPDKSD/KFVPDKSE. I only glimpsed through it but this is more or less I think it was turbo pressure ratio or something along those lines but please do not quote me I haven't looked at the thread in quiet awhile but it was for part throttle and tuning these would be worth the time

And anyone by any chance have a part number for rs4 4 inch maf housing my buddy works at Audi so I would like to up the maf housing size for higher boost levels.

Lmfao yes Im aware had to on previous car hauled ass and the biggest sleeper on 27psi and that was on a shit show unitronics tune hense why I want to get it the base map good to go to ditch unitronics.
Plus I was only going to run 12 psi maybe put me at 260 isn I believe most percesion wake up 25+ psi

Before you get to mapping do the rods.

Also the exhaust valves tend to melt around 350bhp area

If it goes bang you wont no if it was due to bad mapping or the mechanicls letting go

I have plans to do so  on a spare blockthen put the block into my car as i can only have the car down for a weekend at a time. And i didnt want to break in a new motor on a k03 that spikes whenever you drive. I wanted to get the big turbo on so i can break the motor in on that 1000 miles no boost or my buddy had sucess with like 600 miles no boost then 400 on wastegate  i just dpnt want to break in a motor on stock turbo. And 10 12 psi on this turbo i doubt will surpass 300hp.

Breaking it in has nothing to do with the strength of the rods though, they're the weakest part.

If you can't afford rods, buy a smaller turbo, its honestly such a waste of time not doing it.

If you want to run it in, run it in on the K03 with the N75 disconnected, just run actuator pressure.