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Author Topic: 1.8t: electronic SUV via N249 output  (Read 124241 times)
fknbrkn
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mk4 1.8T AUM


« Reply #60 on: February 22, 2015, 12:10:44 PM »

i wrote partnumber of vag original adapters, its very cheap and its what you need
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #61 on: February 22, 2015, 12:12:35 PM »

Ok thanks I'll take a look Smiley need to pass by the dealer next week anyway.
** just came from the dealer, shit those adapters are 2,20€ ex vat a piece Shocked thanks for saving me the trouble fukenbroken! Hehe
« Last Edit: February 24, 2015, 07:31:50 AM by TijnCU » Logged

MadCow
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« Reply #62 on: February 24, 2015, 08:26:45 PM »

Ok thanks I'll take a look Smiley need to pass by the dealer next week anyway.
** just came from the dealer, shit those adapters are 2,20€ ex vat a piece Shocked thanks for saving me the trouble fukenbroken! Hehe

Yep they're great. For extra sealing you can put a small bead of RTV along the bottom edge, they're supposed to be paired with a gasket but it won't seal fully with those valve covers, and they cost more than the adaptor itself oddly enough.
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thelastleroy
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« Reply #63 on: March 01, 2015, 09:56:50 AM »

Finally got the valve in the mail (authentic, undamaged) and got it installed today. Very slick operation. Going to check if the boost spike I was seeing on logs Is gone, when it's warmer outside.
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #64 on: March 02, 2015, 08:38:59 AM »

Nice, mine is working flawless so far. Just did a trip to the black forest in Germany (1500km) and even with the bus loaded to the roof and 5 persons driving in the hills/mountains no issues at all, holding 1.4 bar boost  Smiley
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diagnosticator
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« Reply #65 on: April 20, 2015, 05:04:30 AM »

I'm probably going to cut the connector and wires to make a pigtail and solder up an extension wire directly.  My car will never be stock again, so I don't mind hacking up the harness a bit. I wonder if dealerships sell  "repair pigtails" for damaged connectors?

The dealer has repair wires, with a terminal crimped on each end. You can get only one repair wire and cut in half, for two wires with terminals. You need to match the terminals at the dealer, needed to fit the connector housings you are using.
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aef
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« Reply #66 on: September 04, 2015, 04:49:03 AM »

tinju yours is mounted the opposit side.
The "long" side is for pressure.

Theses things getting popular in germany more and more.
I just ordered the parts to save my now chra from dying again  Roll Eyes
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adam-
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« Reply #67 on: September 04, 2015, 04:57:12 AM »

Your chra died?
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aef
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« Reply #68 on: September 04, 2015, 05:30:23 AM »

was a used turbo and started to make noise a little.
there is oil on the outside too

all of my wot logs have boost spike on the right side^^
which kills your axial bearing

leave your n249 in place kids. dont trust the internet 1337 tuners
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A4Rich
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« Reply #69 on: September 04, 2015, 05:47:03 AM »

Theses things getting popular in germany more and more.
I just ordered the parts to save my now chra from dying again  Roll Eyes
Have you consider what your going to use for SVDLDUVS? 225 APX values?
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #70 on: September 06, 2015, 05:16:05 AM »

I am still running this setup, on standard APX values. Works great, valve is open on cruise unless requested goes above 1300mB.
Havent looked at it anymore, because it is just like stock and works excellent. No boostleaks yet, done about 10.000km on this valve now.
Its not backwards, pressure side is on the side and turbo inlet pipe is opposite to the coil. I dont think it would hold boost when you switch them around, there is no pressurized diaphragm in this system, just a spring.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2015, 05:55:27 AM by TijnCU » Logged

aef
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« Reply #71 on: September 07, 2015, 03:48:20 AM »

Here is how it looks like on a stock system.
http://www.partscats.info/seat/de/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=au&number=1109&set=1120&ein=2009&f=609&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=014595609&bf=14595&hgug=145&ug=45&parent_id=1522663&detail_id=1522688

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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #72 on: September 08, 2015, 11:39:43 AM »

Okay, wow  Grin now I need to redo my stainless intake haha Lips sealed Might leave it like it is now, works without problems. Thanks guys  Huh Tongue
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aef
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« Reply #73 on: October 05, 2015, 10:22:31 AM »

Hi,

I reinstalled my N249 wiring today and did some tests.
I have a small size turbo (K04-064) from the newer TFSI Mk6R or S3 8P on my 1.8t engine.

My SUV is a GFB T9301 and its mounted on the cold side infront of the throttle
I was under the impression that a eSUV would be much faster and my boost peaks at redline could be solved.

It is faster during gearchange. There is a noticeable better boost build up. (no logs so far)
It is NOT faster at redline when the throttle closes. Maybe it is just too small for my airmass.

The boost spike is bigger and longer with the eSUV.  Cry
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aef
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« Reply #74 on: November 04, 2015, 11:05:16 PM »

No updates from other users?

This is a Polo WRC with same Turbo and eSUV on the Cold Side like i build it in my car.

They have all to deal with the high peak boost at redline?
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