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savages4
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« Reply #75 on: November 09, 2015, 10:04:28 PM »
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Always available to test custom code on my b5 s4
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ddillenger
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« Reply #76 on: November 09, 2015, 10:33:36 PM »
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Always available to test custom code on my b5 s4
I will do this if you want it. |
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Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience!
Email/Google chat:
DDillenger84(at)gmail(dot)com
Email>PM
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rnagy86
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« Reply #77 on: March 12, 2016, 03:09:16 AM »
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Just to revive this thread a bit, I installed a rear LSD in my b5 and wired the black/red wire
(brake light switch) of the ESP/ABS ECUto switched +12V to disable EDL. Checked with vag-com and and
it works, brake is Activated. However this will throw a code and cause a christmas tree
instrument cluster. I noticed that it stores an error code (brake light switch - implausible signal)
after driving over 100+km/h for 1-2 minutes. Simple city cruising does not seem to trigger this.
Using the brake light switch was suggested on several forums but it seems that it's not really
the best solution.
Did anyone ever successfully disabled EDL without throwing any codes?
Thanks
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Snow Trooper
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« Reply #78 on: March 12, 2016, 11:12:02 AM »
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Yes, adjust your ebrake cable and make it so the first two clicks have no tension. When you want to hoon click it up one or two clicks and go two town. Been running a diff (plus a very agressive center diff) and doing this for a long time.
To elaborate further, when I ran the edl circuit mod from way back when, over time I got rough road signal codes and other issues. I think it messed an abs controller up too. I cut the circuit out in 2008 or so and have been like this since.
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« Last Edit: March 12, 2016, 11:14:26 AM by Snow Trooper »
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cartoons?
6A 61 72 65 64 40 76 6C 6D 73 70 65 63
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rnagy86
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« Reply #79 on: March 12, 2016, 11:19:01 AM »
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Yes, adjust your ebrake cable and make it so the first two clicks have no tension. When you want to hoon click it up one or two clicks and go two town. Been running a diff (plus a very agressive center diff) and doing this for a long time.
To elaborate further, when I ran the edl circuit mod from way back when, over time I got rough road signal codes and other issues. I think it messed an abs controller up too. I cut the circuit out in 2008 or so and have been like this since.
Running the circuit mod means that directly having +12V on the brake pedal wire at the ABS ECU? What about using the ebrake signal wire on the ABS ECU all the time instead to avoid the ebrake light on the dash? (I know it is a minor issue but i get super annoyed by having constant lights on the dash) I wish someone with the knowledge could hack the ABS/ESP software  |
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nyet
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« Reply #80 on: March 12, 2016, 11:34:00 AM »
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What about using the ebrake signal wire on the ABS ECU all the time instead to avoid the ebrake light on the dash?
(I know it is a minor issue but i get super annoyed by having constant lights on the dash)
In theory, this should work, and it is something i've wanted to do for a while I wish someone with the knowledge could hack the ABS/ESP software Yea  |
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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armageddon
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« Reply #81 on: March 12, 2016, 02:09:26 PM »
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I'm following this as I will be installing an v8 torsen lsd(the "stronger" one)
I was thinking in using the brake light switch mod, bad news
although, on audisrs, there's some guys using quaife torsen rear diff without problems and with no "modification" to EDL
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turboat
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« Reply #82 on: March 14, 2016, 09:08:52 AM »
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This still bugs me, the torque intervention really spoils the feel of the car.
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rnagy86
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« Reply #83 on: March 14, 2016, 11:01:39 AM »
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So I reverted the brake light switch back to its original place and re-pinned the
parking brake wire on the ABS/ESP ECU.
Make sure that you are not giving that pin +12V as it gets +12V by default
and then when you pull the parking brake, it will pull it to ground!
So what I did is that I grounded that pin to the ABS ECU's housing
where it is bolted to the chassis.
No parking brake light on the dash, but if I pull it there is, so that works.
I've also checked the ABS module (chan 2 measuring blocks) and the ECU
thinks that the parking brake is on all the time, so that's good as well.
I drove the car for 50km and no ill effects thus far.
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nyet
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« Reply #84 on: March 14, 2016, 11:04:54 AM »
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So what I did is that I grounded that pin to the ABS ECU's housing
where it is bolted to the chassis.
Any pics? That's awesome. |
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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rnagy86
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« Reply #85 on: March 14, 2016, 11:12:14 AM »
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I'll take some tomorrow but it's nothing fancy really, the ECU under the back seat has two M6 bolts, you
remove the nut and place a round terminal below it, then the other side of the wire goes to the ABS
ECU which you either re-pin if you have the tools and the special pin or cut the wire.
Be careful to check your wiring diagram, because there are 4 different ones.
Anti-lock Brake (ABS 5.3) with (EDL) and (ASC - ASR) and (EPC), from 1999 m.y..pdf
Anti-lock Brake (ABS 5.3) with (EDL) and (ASC - ASR), from 2000 m. y..pdf
Anti-lock Brake (ABS 5.3) with (EDL), (ASC - ASR) and (ESP), 1999 m.y..pdf
Anti-lock Brake (ABS 5.3) with (EDL), (ASC - ASR) and (ESP), 2000 m.y..pdf
For me the last one was the correct and on the ABS ECU i had to use:
pin 76 (grey/yellow).
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Snow Trooper
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« Reply #86 on: March 14, 2016, 01:36:05 PM »
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Awesome, never bothered to hard wire mine. Probably should. The ebrake signal def works though and good to see your experience back it up.
Sometimes I launch with it down, so un defeated. I always click it up to drift and such though. Not sure I want it all the time.
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cartoons?
6A 61 72 65 64 40 76 6C 6D 73 70 65 63
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nyet
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« Reply #87 on: August 10, 2016, 12:47:51 PM »
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Pulling fuse #42 is the power supply for the steering angle sensor. Can somebody independently verify this for me? According to the wiring diagram, it goes to pin 44 on the ABS control module, and most likely provides power for the hydraulic pump for traction control (V156) on pins 22 and 24. It sets an auto clearing fault in ABS that kills ESP, but not ABS. I have to do this in my allroad because if you delete the air suspension, ESP cannot be deactivated above 40mph. I wired up a switch and inline fuse holder to the 42 position. As a side effect though it seems to mess with brake bias. Be warned though, in the snow, it seems to want to lock the rear brakes easier.
Are you sure the rear brake lockup tendency isn't just because you're disabling per wheel braking via TC intervention? I would like to know conclusively if pulling fuse 42 interferes with brake biasing (F:R proportioning valve) (aka EBD?) |
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« Last Edit: August 10, 2016, 02:35:56 PM by nyet »
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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prj
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« Reply #88 on: December 07, 2016, 06:48:30 AM »
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Btw if you are running an open diff the EDL helps a huge amount. I did some tests on a new Audi S1 that is used for rallying. Tested it with two wheels on snow and two on tarmac. Wheel speeds without EDL: Time FL FR RL RR
0.00 0 0 0 0
0.25 3.9 50.8 4.4 34.1
0.49 9.1 52.5 8.2 59
0.75 12.6 71.3 12.7 66.7
0.99 16.1 89.4 15.7 93.3
1.25 19.1 93.3 19.2 91.3
1.50 22.7 89.4 22.6 90.3
1.75 26 82.7 25.9 82.9
2.00 31.4 75 29.9 78.9
2.25 37 73.1 36.8 72.2
2.50 41.3 40 42.3 41.2 After 2 seconds the car is still at 30 km/h. And the two wheels that are on the snow are still spinning out of control. At 2.50 the car leaves the snow and the end wheel speed is about 41.3 km/h at that point, as it starts rapidly accelerating. Wheel speeds with EDL: Time FL FR RL RR
0.00 0 0 0 0
0.25 41.3 3.3 26.4 4.7
0.50 40.2 8.7 36.8 9.3
0.75 45.4 13.9 50.1 17.8
1.00 60.4 18.6 62.4 18.3
1.25 61.8 25.8 63.8 23.7
1.50 61.9 34.4 60.5 29.1
1.75 68.5 34.4 70.8 35.7
2.00 68.4 39.3 70.2 38.8
2.24 62.4 45.8 73.5 43
2.50 47.2 48 48.8 48.5 Here at 2 seconds even with the wheels spinning we already have almost 40km/h. So it gets to the speed 20% faster. Even bigger is the difference for example at 1.5 seconds in - 22km/h and roughly 32km/h respectively. The car also understeers like mad in corners with EDL off. Turn EDL on and suddenly it goes where you point it. So if you have open diffs, don't try to disable EDL. Yaw control is a different story though. |
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2016, 07:02:03 AM by prj »
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nyet
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« Reply #89 on: December 07, 2016, 10:37:00 AM »
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I have a rear LSD.. which is why I want to disable EDL entirely.
As aside note: I don't have a useful computer handy, does anybody know what the stock EDL vehicle speed cutoff is for ME7.1?
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ME7.1 tuning guideECUx PlotME7Sum checksumTrim heatmap toolPlease do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own. Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your ex
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