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Author Topic: Boost not meeting requested even at 95% WGDC  (Read 26457 times)
Basano
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« Reply #30 on: April 25, 2015, 01:39:35 AM »

MED9.1 disappointment on the dyno  Undecided

Last week I finally took my car for a run on the dyno (Dyno Dynamics model). I thought my existing logs driving up and down the roads were looking decent enough, so now for the moment of truth!

Car
Audi S3 8P MY2008 ~ 70 000 miles
BHZ engine (K04) 2.0 TFSI
8P0907115H
387951
HW mods none (completely stock OEM hw, major service last month at the main dealer – oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs etc)

I was a bit disappointed – just 279 bhp. Stock is 261 bhp and I was hoping for closer to 300 bhp still on OEM hw just going on the MAF reading.

Thing is, I’ll stick my neck out here and say I don’t think it’s a sw issue. Actual boost 1.2 bar  at 6500 rpm. WGDC 95%. Fuelling ~0.81. CF < -2.25. MAF ~ 238 g/s. Throttle Plate ~99%. No DTC’s.

Before I go looking for non-existent hw faults, is this as good as it gets? (K04-64 compresssor map…) Anyone got some stage 1 results (i.e. sw only) I could compare against?

I had the logger going during the dyno run, so the pictures below are all from the same session. Actual Boost and Load really do seem to fall away after 5500 rpm


































« Last Edit: April 25, 2015, 01:44:38 AM by Basano » Logged
technic
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« Reply #31 on: April 25, 2015, 09:21:26 AM »

Make it a bit leaner in the whole rpm range (around 0.86 at 3000 rpm down to 0.813 at 6520 rpm) using LAMFA and make BTS a bit richer than LAMFA - around 0,797 at 6520 rpm.
Check if you can advance ignition a bit in mid rpm Smiley
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nyet
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« Reply #32 on: April 25, 2015, 10:42:44 AM »

That's about all you are going to get out of one K04.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #33 on: April 25, 2015, 12:08:10 PM »

Disregard what stock is supposed to be, get a dyno of your car stock. Thats the only way to measure gains.
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Mechsoldier
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« Reply #34 on: May 31, 2015, 12:30:12 PM »

R
« Last Edit: May 31, 2015, 12:31:46 PM by Mechsoldier » Logged
vwaudiguy
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« Reply #35 on: May 31, 2015, 01:22:43 PM »

Disregard what stock is supposed to be, get a dyno of your car stock. Thats the only way to measure gains.

This. ^ Also, not all Dynos show the same power figures for the same engine. Most DD operators can easily add ~+10-15% to get the numbers inline to say a Dynojet's readings. Honestly, the engineers that write the software for many of the dyno companies do not use the same algorithms to measure HP, and don't even agree on the best methods to use to translate what the dynos measure into real world HP. Where the intake temp probe is placed has a big impact on the numbers this particular dyno produces as well. You need to get a baseline preferably on the same dyno brand (same dyno if possible), with the same operator to be able to compare before/after with any decent degree of accuracy.
« Last Edit: June 01, 2015, 07:13:53 AM by vwaudiguy » Logged

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sonique
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« Reply #36 on: May 31, 2015, 02:00:40 PM »

maf x 1,25 approx = HP
your reading maf 240 *1,25 approx 300hp
dyno not good  calibrated Sad
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #37 on: May 31, 2015, 02:02:47 PM »

It's important to differentiate between wheel HP and crank HP.
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ddillenger
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« Reply #38 on: May 31, 2015, 02:02:54 PM »

maf x 1,25 approx = HP
your reading maf 240 *1,25 approx 300hp
dyno not good  calibrated Sad

No. You can move the same amount of air with 5 degrees advance as you can with 20, and I assure you the hp levels aren't nearly the same.
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carsey
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« Reply #39 on: May 31, 2015, 05:04:22 PM »

MAF readings are pretty accurate to a certain degree,  then they become out. 

Im knocking out 265g/s of air, which is 331bhp,   but making 360bhp on the dyno...so its out 30bhp.   Thats a well known UK dyno which has proved itself against many other dynos as reading accurate.
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Lost
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« Reply #40 on: June 01, 2015, 02:04:02 AM »

maf x 1,25 approx = HP
your reading maf 240 *1,25 approx 300hp
dyno not good  calibrated Sad

Those Maf - HP conversation are not correct at all.
If you have an old Maf sensor and tune your car it will read low showing you low Load readings but the car will still make good power. Once your old Maf is done and you buy a new one. It will read higher. Your fueling will be way off. Once you dial in your fueling again the power will be still the same.
Then you have diff power based on type of fuel you are running still the same Maf readings.
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flaattire
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« Reply #41 on: June 01, 2015, 09:24:50 PM »

Catless downpipe needed Grin

Your timing looks a little conservative up top. And have you looked at the variable cam maps?
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ollieoxenfree
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« Reply #42 on: June 24, 2015, 06:32:05 PM »

so if boost psi is way low and ps_w is really high then Diverter valves?
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carsey
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« Reply #43 on: June 26, 2015, 10:06:16 AM »

Id be keeping both timing maps identical and using the VVT/camshaft adjustment maps to hold the torque band.  Works VERY well.
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