A4Rich
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« on: April 27, 2015, 08:33:41 AM »
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What are your opinions / experiences with the electronic thermostat on the AMB engine? Currently getting ready to do some preventative maintenance and have been thinking about a couple options.
1) Keep e-thermostat system (with the ability to adjust if needed 518AK 003 xdf attached)
2) Remove and Replacing with AWM mechanical system
Parts required:
Complete Overhaul (O-rings and Bolts to be added):
1 (lower hose assembly, uses your stock coolant sensor) - 4B0 121 055 J
2 (thermostat housing) - 06B 121 121 L
N/A (Thermostat 87C and 82C are available) - 050 121 113 C
9 (Lower Water Pipe) - 06B 121 065 AC
17 (Upper Water Pipe) - 06B 121 071 L
22 (upper hose) - 8D0 121 101 K
33 (upper pipe to reservoir) - 8D0 121 107 C
35 (Rear flange kit, bolts to upper pipe) - 058 121 132 A
12 (cap for lower pipe) - 078 133 335 A
Edit: Added Part Numbers
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« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 07:01:18 AM by A4Rich »
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Steve Bassen
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« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2015, 08:55:29 AM »
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Lemme save you some legwork, since I was going to do this to my now defunct BAT build...
Basically grab everything from the B5.5 Passat (same as AWM 2001.5 or whatever 06A's in the A4):
upper and lower water pipes (the stock upper still wants to be hooked up to the electric thermostat's upper port, which won't exist anymore)
rear coolant flange
upper and lower hose assemblies... these via Rein are way cheaper than what we pay for the B6 hoses from VAG
thermostat and housing assembly
Everything should pretty much bolt right up. There's a ton of benefits... consistent and lower head temps vs the stock map based thermostat, way cheaper thermostat cost, deleting the J-plug and replacing it with the hard line, etc. I've actually got the water pipes already; I'll unload them for cheap if you need them. For tuning, you'll need to disable the DTC's for the electric thermostat in addition to adjusting your map based thermostat maps to 180 (or whatever the temp is of your now conventional thermostat) across the board so the ECU sees a consistent temp. I found and defined all that crap in my own xdf for the 518AK 003 that I can post when I get home... pretty simple. It should all work in theory... I never did get to put it in the field since I'm now doing a 2.7T swap on my B6.
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« Last Edit: April 27, 2015, 08:57:35 AM by Steve Bassen »
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Steve Bassen
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« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2015, 09:11:40 AM »
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Just realized you already have the maps all defined for the thermostat.... here's what you need to disable the DTC when the thermostat is unhooked.
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A4Rich
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« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2015, 12:40:34 PM »
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Steve, thanks for all the information!  Looking into the part numbers, will PM you later tonight about the hard pipes. |
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Steve Bassen
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« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2015, 12:43:01 PM »
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Sure... if I get some time tonight I'll dig around for my diagrams to confirm the parts... I marked up all the crap that's a must have for the swap. Pretty sure that was it. Really the one time cost of the swap should be worth it since then you're left with $20 thermostat housings instead of an $80+ thermostat, and $35 lower radiator hose assemblies instead of $130 or whatever the B6 hose is.
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quattro5v
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« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2015, 03:48:29 PM »
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Interesting information. I too would like to know what part numbers etc to use.
FYI I've gone a different way with the e-thermostat and built one which does away with the plug, though I am using a standalone ecu.
Standard B6 thermostat housing with heavily modified internals to negate the OE 110deg thermostat, and replaced with an (OE) 87deg one.
Works well after testing.
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Steve Bassen
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« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2015, 05:23:41 PM »
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Ok, from the AWM diagram you'll need numbers 1 (lower hose assembly, uses your stock coolant sensor), 22 (upper hose), 33 (upper pipe to reservoir), 35 (rear flange kit, bolts to upper pipe), 2 (thermostat housing), and 12 (cap for lower pipe). Oil cooler hoses are the same between the B5/B5.5 AWM and the B6 AMB, as are the heater core connections.
My diagrams made a bit more sense a few months ago when I was looking at them... but I was also planning to plumb in an afterrun pump, as well, with a power off timed relay hooked in.
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A4Rich
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« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2015, 12:47:38 PM »
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Interesting information. I too would like to know what part numbers etc to use.
FYI I've gone a different way with the e-thermostat and built one which does away with the plug, though I am using a standalone ecu.
Standard B6 thermostat housing with heavily modified internals to negate the OE 110deg thermostat, and replaced with an (OE) 87deg one.
Works well after testing.
Would be interested to know more details of your setup, have any logs? |
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quattro5v
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« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2015, 06:02:39 PM »
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Would be interested to know more details of your setup, have any logs?
No logs. Using the Vi-Pec plugin i88 which is modelled off the ME7.x Audi TT ECU. Ran out of fuelling (returnless) with 550cc injectors. Have since upgraded these and need to also revert to a return-style setup. Turns out 4bar static pressure is too much to tune 2200cc injectors at idle... https://youtu.be/GJo8WUHf_x8As far as the thermostat goes, I have invested a considerable amount of time and $$ in to getting it right. FYI a person can write a map for the e-thermostat function. I removed it for simplicity and a reduced failure point. |
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