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Author Topic: FMIC ridiculious heatsoak  (Read 18431 times)
masterj
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« on: June 02, 2015, 06:02:29 AM »

Hi, guys,
how do you mount fmic so it wouldn't block radiator on audi a4 b5/passat b5 1.8t? Mine is in front of radiator and starts to collect heat after coolant reaches 90 degrees to a point where I have huge ignition angle cut (>60 degrees C intake temp).  Both ventilators on max. I was thinking maybe replace my fmic with dual smics on each side where foglights currently are (removing them also). Whatcha think? Also anyone knows which oem intercoolers I should buy? Maybe tt ones? or diesel? OEM part no would be awesome

Plumbing would go like this:

turbo > smic1 > smic2 > intake mani
« Last Edit: June 02, 2015, 06:06:09 AM by masterj » Logged

Jerry Tunin
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« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2015, 10:07:24 AM »

I would think with the large gap between the radiator and FMIC that while driving there wouldn't be any...?
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Jerry Tunin
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« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2015, 10:08:06 AM »

I would think with the large gap between the radiator and FMIC that while driving there wouldn't be any...?

Is your FMIC literally up against the radiator or is it attached to the front bumper?
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adam-
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« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2015, 02:40:35 PM »

Maybe that's why mine is cold - I've still got the AC rad..
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majorahole
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« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2015, 06:03:15 AM »

i always assumed the b5's with fmic had a decent gap between rad and fmic? unlike my mk5 gti that the stock "fmic" is actually right next to the radiator, like mounted to it. i'm planning on doing a true fmic so its actually out in front and does'nt absorb the rad heat so badly
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masterj
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« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2015, 02:56:21 AM »

Is your FMIC literally up against the radiator or is it attached to the front bumper?

About 2cm between radiator and intercooler, attached to the reinforcer crash bar. Also ic covers around 50% of radiator. Dunno if this is ok or not, but I think two smics will be way better for radiator, no?
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tjwasiak
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« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2015, 05:41:02 AM »

Do you have any issues with engine temperatures? If not I would not worry about radiator. FMIC should be much better then 2 SMICs for charge temperatures but it seems something is wrong with your setup. Are you sure charge temperature sensor is not faulty?
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masterj
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« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2015, 06:39:21 AM »

Do you have any issues with engine temperatures? If not I would not worry about radiator. FMIC should be much better then 2 SMICs for charge temperatures but it seems something is wrong with your setup. Are you sure charge temperature sensor is not faulty?

Coolant temperature stays about 90C (as it should), but after a while both engine fans kick in high speed spinning and I literally feel massive ignition retard and observe ~60C in intake. I think my intake air temperature sensor is OK, during cold start it shows same as ambient temp and then slowly rises to something like +5C above ambient. Any ideas on what to log/do?

BTW: This happens only in city. On highway I can literally go wot for a long time and not get any ignition retardation (also fans are spinning on normal speed all the time). That is why I suspect something with the air cooling system...
« Last Edit: June 08, 2015, 06:45:13 AM by masterj » Logged

majorahole
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« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2015, 04:44:56 PM »

you ever figure this out?
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adam-
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« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2015, 11:56:57 PM »

Where is the temperature sensor located?  Maybe during city driving, the heat soak on the manifold goes high so the temperature sensor reads high, too.

I doubt you'd relocate the sensor to inside the FMIC (cause I surely haven't!) :p  I've noticed that in the hot days (20 degrees C, as much as we get), my inlet will be pretty damn hot.  Like you though, I can go WOT on the motorway forever and not see silly inlet temps.

I'll let mine heatsoak the next time we get a hot day (rare in Glasgow) and see how high they go.
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TijnCU
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« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2015, 02:00:15 AM »

Do you log ignition retard or just suspect it? I have high inlet temps too when I come off the highway into slow traffic, but its more due to low airflow through hot manifold than low IC efficiency. If you shut down the engine, the inlet temps rise quickly as well...
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nyet
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« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2015, 09:48:39 AM »

FMICs have ridiculously high thermal mass.

Not sure why everybody thinks they're so wonderful.
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dream3R
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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2015, 05:13:39 PM »

The last intercooler I bought was an upgraded Volvo drop in to the rad pack it was brilliant.

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How to work out values from an A2L Smiley

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5525.msg52371#msg52371


Starting Rev's http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5397.msg51169#msg51169

noobs read this before asking http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9014.0title=


ORGORIGINAL 05 5120 creator for Volvo
ORIGINAL Datalogger (Freeware) Author
ORGINAL finder of the 'extra' torque' limits
I don't have ME7.01 A2L I just use ID
dream3R
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2015, 05:17:23 PM »

FMICs have ridiculously high thermal mass.

Not sure why everybody thinks they're so wonderful.

I agree on this especially stop start traffic



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How to work out values from an A2L Smiley

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5525.msg52371#msg52371


Starting Rev's http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5397.msg51169#msg51169

noobs read this before asking http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9014.0title=


ORGORIGINAL 05 5120 creator for Volvo
ORIGINAL Datalogger (Freeware) Author
ORGINAL finder of the 'extra' torque' limits
I don't have ME7.01 A2L I just use ID
justindcady
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« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2015, 06:31:35 AM »

FMICs have ridiculously high thermal mass.

Not sure why everybody thinks they're so wonderful.

As a result of being so close to other 'stuff' that radiates heat (i.e. AC Condenser, Radiator, etc.)??  Whereas SMIC is in its own little place off to the side away from other stuff that can possibly radiate heat?

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