No problem, Andrew.

You're doing a great job, keep it up..

You're the kind of forum member that makes things easy

Well we recently had some nice sunny weather and road conditions have been dry, so I finally did some logging. Now I'm still a novice when it comes to logging and figuring out what may be an issue, so I made a few charts with what I *think* is relevant data. I also attached the log in case these charts don't say enough. If I had to guess I would say it looks like it's taking too long to reach anywhere near requested boost, and perhaps there's a boost leak somewhere that isn't obvious (I haven't pressure tested yet, though I'm familiar with the procedure; also replaced the torn "DAS BOOT" shorty after buying the car). Another concern is knock voltage on one of the cylinders peaks at ~20volts, which may be on the high end? And lastly requested boost is lower than I think it should be, so I assume the ECU doesn't want to feed the beast until it's "safe" to do so. Whaddya think guys, am I on the right track?

I limit is way too low, your actual boost isn't anywhere near requested.

Also, for that low boost, you are seeing a TON of timing correction, which makes no sense.

Do you have a wideband sensor? If not, I would not go any further w/o one.. or you need to diagnose your fueling. I suspect you are very lean.

No, I mean actual 3rd party aftermarket wideband, like zeitronix, that measures actual lambda (not just whether or not you are lambda 1, which is useless for tuning)


Yea, i would think so, but something is really awry with your timing

Bad gas is the obvious answer.

I'd start by pulling a bunch of timing and see how far down you have to go to get 0 retard.

If you aren't running stock fueling (MAF, injectors) i'd not go any further w/o a wideband.

I created a new topic under diagnostics before going further here.
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9731.0title=