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Gonzo
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« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2011, 05:56:19 PM »
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The key is to flash only if the ECU board matches.
If both SW versions are for engine code X and they are both wideband and same Immo version, it should TECHNICALLY work.
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abalogh
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« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2011, 11:39:04 PM »
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Hi Gonzo,
Thanks for your reply.
So I have the following data about my ECU:
VW number: 036906032J
Type: ME 7.5.10 4413
HW number: 0261207194
SW number: 1037363469
Flash type: 29F400BT
Which one (or more) have to be met?
Best regards,
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livslx
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« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2011, 03:46:32 AM »
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Hi Abalogh,
I strongly believe that if these 3 conditions are met:
1. same Bosch code (manufacturer/designer) on the silver label
2. same VAG code (integrator, including last letters) on the silver label
3. same ECU type (ME 7.5.10xx to every letter) on the silver label
then you can flash it up with a stock bin file. The same applies if taken (second hand) from the same engine code and the ECU worked well. Also, if you can open the boxes and see visually no differences between the two circuit boards (like Gonzo said).
I prefer opening the box and check the injector drivers (burned out or not) or other power ICs visually and if any corrosion or discolored spots are on the circuit board, while also you can check if it's exactly the same architecture and ICs types/memories. (ICs = integrated circuits). Sometimes you have to peel off the paper label pasted onto the AM29FxxxYY flash in order to check the flash type. Disadvantage = you have to re-apply the silicone, on the borders, to keep the box watertight. But you know that the hardware is visually ok.
Did PM you, in regards how to copy the immo eeprom.
About my cold start problem .. today, the mechanics will check if the previous workshop did align the distribution well, as my cold start problem started immediately upon replacement of the distribution kit, in 2010.
Regards.
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abalogh
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« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2011, 02:46:26 PM »
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Hi livslx,
Thanks for these info. It seems that it is very strict and my ECU cannot be flashed with an ECU file from the other Octavia even if it is an 1.4 16V BCA with ME7.5.10. Have to be very careful.
By the way could you flash (write) your ECU (not the IMMO eeprom) with NefMoto software finally?
And another question: What do you think, is it possible to replace a whole ECU (hadrware and software) with the different one? I mean to replace e.g. ME7.5.10 4413 - 036906032J with ME7.5.10 7980 - 036906032BJ?
Best regards,
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Gonzo
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« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2011, 06:41:25 PM »
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If they are both ME7.5.10 and they are both same engine then it should work. Give it a shot. But flash the spare, not your own  |
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livslx
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« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2011, 12:28:50 AM »
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If the "032BJ" is taken from the same engine (BCA), it should work instead of "032J".
Using a second-hand/spare ECU would work, but you have to clone the immo eeprom content to the spare ECU, otherwise the engine will not start.
On the other hand, if you want to go on "re-flashing the ECU" solution:
ME7.5.10 and the Instrument Cluster (usually Motometer BOO Vxx) are strongly related, to ensure a positive result on flashing the ECU map into your ECU, I believe that you have to fulfill:
- supply the car with a strong battery charger to make sure that during flashing you will not have voltage coming too low (13.5 volts would be very good).
- pull off the instrument cluster fuses (F11 and F15, but better check on your fuses board)
before re-flashing session.
- make sure that your laptop will be stable (well supplied, no processor intensive processes)
- use the same FTDI dumb interface that you succeed reading the flash (if it was "stable" in 45 minutes then should be stable on writing as well).
Regards.
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abalogh
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« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2011, 03:57:33 PM »
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Thanks for your suggestions livslx and Gonzo! I think I have to get a spare ECU for the secure test (now I have only a file from a '032BJ"). Or find another possible reason for the cold start problem  . I'll post the results. If you can resolve your cold start problem livslx, please let me know. Regards, |
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livslx
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« Reply #22 on: September 06, 2011, 03:01:33 AM »
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Hi abalogh,
I have resolved the cold start problem.
It was the vacuum pipe to the gasoline pressure reducer. It was not cracked but during the distribution belt replacement it seems that was the last time for that rubber pipe to hold the pressure and its tightness was almost lost. During the night time or long standing, all the vacuum was lost and it was necessary a few engine revolutions in order to rebuild the vacuum.
The gasoline pressure reducer is located to the distribution belts end, actually it is the end of the injectors rail, thats why it was the source of my cold start problems.
Now, after one month upon this rubber pipe replacement, still EVERYTHING IS FINE !!!
Everybody is looking for cracked rubber pipes but not for loose tightness, you see ..
Best regards,
livslx
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abalogh
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« Reply #23 on: September 06, 2011, 04:23:53 AM »
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Oh, those annoying small things! Hi livslx, It's great that you,ve found it. I'll check this pipe too, but it seems that the origin of my problem is different. But who knows . Now I'm looking for a second hand replacement ECU. The new one has a horrible price. The only thing I got to know that the 036906032J is not exists now the replacement is the 036906032BJ so I think it has a reason. Thanks for your post. Best regards, |
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abalogh
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« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2011, 03:12:31 PM »
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Hi livslx,
Unfortunately I haven't found a proper replacement ECU for my car so I cannot say about any result yet. But there was a strange thing which happend a week before.
There was a common service taken a week before (oil change, air filter change, brake fluid change etc.) And the brake pads and shoes were also changed. After the brake fluid change there was an ABS bleeding. After this service the car has been changed. Starting the engine was easier, there were more power in the engine when I started at the traffic lights so it behaves as a new one. But it lasts only for a day. I didn't use the car for 2 days and when I used it again all these fine feelings has been disappeard. (Starting the engine is just like before the service.)
Have you got any idea regarding this behavior? Is it confirms the fault of the ECU or not? What is your opinion?
Best regards,
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terok
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« Reply #25 on: November 10, 2011, 07:26:47 AM »
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It doesn't confirm anything. This kind of thing happens all the time. After service car gets better, or worse. Usually because fault memory has been cleared (faults or no faults). This also zeroes a few adaptation channels, mixture-adaptations for example.
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abalogh
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« Reply #26 on: November 12, 2011, 03:43:29 AM »
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Hi terok, To be more accurate, the real service (with service interval reset - there were no DTCs) was 3 weeks before this positive change. 3 weeks after the service there was a brake service only with bleeding the ABS. After this the car became better (but only for one day  ). Have you any idea for this? Best regards, |
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esilviu
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« Reply #27 on: October 15, 2012, 02:06:39 AM »
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Hello abalogh, livslx
I have a 2004 golf 4 with the same engine as you, BCA, and have exact the same problem with cold start, over 15 degrees C, outside it starts correct revving at 1200 rpm at idle and after warming a little approx 1 min. dropping at 750 rpm at idle, and below 15 degrees C it starts abnormally at 780 - 800 rpm at idle instead of 1200 rpm, I checked with vagcom and no DTC found !?
Did you succeed to solve your cold start problem?
Thanks.
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« Last Edit: October 15, 2012, 02:37:20 AM by esilviu »
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abalogh
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« Reply #28 on: October 15, 2012, 02:57:27 PM »
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Hi esilviu, After a number of tests and comparisons with other Octavia with BCA engine, I can say that this behavior is intended and controlled by the ECU. My car starts at 1200 RPM above 18°C and starts at 910 RPM below 18°C. But in your case the 800 RPM seems too low. My problem was that in some cases there were severe vibrations after starting at 910 RPM. I could eliminate this vibration by slightly increase the idle speed and idle torque of the engine (+20 RPM and +3 Nm). Unfortunately I could not find the real reason of these vibrations. (I noticed it first when the car was 4 years old.) Nobody could detect any error despite a car electronic expert were examine the car and he noticed the vibration . Now the winter coming soon. I'm curious whether this solution works at lower temperatures. Does your engine runs smoothly when starts at 800 RPM? Best regards |
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esilviu
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« Reply #29 on: October 18, 2012, 02:31:07 PM »
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Hi abalogh, Thanks for your pm and for your answer, maybe we can find the solution taking into account we are two with exact the same problem. Concerning the starts under 15°C at 800 RPM , it is not so smooth , you can feel some small vibrations, but for me are not so annoying , I think they are normal for a cold start, for me the real problem is this cold start which is reversed from normal - it should start under 15°C with 1200 RPM and over 15-20 °C it could decrease the RPM level to 900, 800 or even 750 if outside we have 35°C. As soon as I will have some spare time I will check the intake temperature sender , it's the one on the intake chamber in the same package with map sensor. In my opinion are two sensors which could lead to this behavior - coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor, this could explain the 15°C threshold; 18°C in your case, there should be a blockage of the sensor/s at a certain level producing this effect/behavior on the engine in cold start , even I/WE don't have any DTC's on vagcom. THANKS and we hope to solve the problem  |
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« Last Edit: October 18, 2012, 02:35:12 PM by esilviu »
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