NefMoto

Dear Friends.

I have a VW Golf 4 GTI 1.8T
i decided to upgrade the car with K04-001 Hybrid

other parts i upgrade

Intake:

Oversized Tip
80mm Audi S3 MAF
Power Filter
Upgrade Diverter Valve
Front mount intercooler

Turbo --> 51mm piping --> intercooler --> 60mm Piping --> Throttle Body
Upgrade Turbo Actuator

Fuel:
265 LPH Fuel Pump
386CC Injectors also S3
4 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator

Ignition:
NGK BKR7E
NGK Red-Tops

Tune:

K04 Remap

I put the turbo on the car in June 2022
since day 1 im not able to drive WOT till redline. (This does not happen when holding gas pedal to floor)
it always goes into limp mode after i let lose gas pedal to shift
it only happens around 5200 to 7000 RPM


things i tried:

Checked for intake leaks / boost leaks (used smoke machine)
Changed N75 (Measured 0.31 Ohms)
Changed Actuator to upgaded one
Used different Actuator springs
Changed Intake to oversized tip
Engine oil flush + cleaning pistons
Changed Spark Plugs
Changed Coils (to red tops)
Changed Fuel Injectors
Changed Fuel Pump
Changed MAP sensor
Changed MAF sensor (Upgraded to 80mm Audi S3)
Replaced all exhaust gaskets (Head to manifold) (Manifold to turbo) (Turbo to Downpipe)
Checked Turbo with VideoScope (No damage to intake or exhaust vins) No Shaft Play
Adjusted Timing in tune

Im getting really tired of replacing parts and spending money
i didnt had the chance to drive with fun yet :(

I hope someone can tell me some more things to try
maybe the tune is the problem?
im out of words and cant seem to get the problem fixed

IMX is too high.

log all of the PID vars as described in the s4wiki

I have no idea what "K04 Remap" means.

What do you mean? Clearly it is "The K04 Remap".

post your bin file,
are there fault codes turning up?

Hello

No fault codes showing up

I made some changes by analyzing your bin and log.
Reactivated some closed saftey features, tweaked boost pre control/adaption, ignition timing and lambda/fueling.
Knocking is quite apparent, are you running original compression ratio?
If so, I would recommend NGK BKR8EIX.
Try to figure out what I did and if you test it, always be careful, it's at your own risk.
I'm sure there is some more work left to do...

Hello.

Engine is fully stock

i will try your file today and make a new log.

kind regards

I think it's because of the turbocharger. The wastegate port is restricted or the turbo wheel is not ok, so reducing the boost in a short time is not possible while the throttle is closing.
If you request less boost everything will be just fine. Or the actuator spring is too tight.

Hello, i tried different springs in the actuator
The wastegate is opening as should everything is checked mechanically

Kind regards

it does, but the wastegate port is too narrow for this configuration.
I claim nothing, but I would install a normal K04.

Dear Terminator

Alot of other guys i know run this setup / turbo without any problems….
I think my tune is just fucked up and need to start over again.

Kind regards.

Im also noticing 2 bar spike on my boost gauge…..

According to your logs you did everything right. Duty cycle is around 0% but the boost is increasing while the throttle is closing.
 

So the diverter valve is not opening enough or spring is to tight inside diverter valve?

Hmmmm

I don't think it matters.

Ugh its so hard to figure out whats happening…
The boost gauge is also fluctuating
I close to the point to just stop driving the car and sell it…

Disagree. I don't see this at all in this part of the log. Where are you seeing that?

Log PID vars.

Line 4605

Sorry, misread this as there are two independent problems. The main proximate issue (imo) is crazy overboost at peak boost, which is bad PID tuning.

I'd start by getting that under control.

Not sure what is going on with the diverter valves; that is a separate hardware issue that won't be solved in software.

anyway, this right here is a good reason to never do an n249 delete.

He says it goes limp, but never posted if he is seeing codes. I am not so sure the offthrottle spike is causing the limp.

Dear Nyet,

i never get any codes.
it just goes in limp every time i let lose gas pedal at high rpm WOT.
and yes i indeed did n249 delete

Nyet,

I have to do ignition on and off to get out of the limp.
after ignition is on the boost is back

Start with the proximate cause; your PID tuning needs a lot of work.

if you still get limp mode after you fix your PID, reconsider the reasons you deleted the n249. Do you have good ones?

Hello Leonhard

see file attached log with your file

regards......

Still limp mode after letting of gas to shift

still missing PID vars, but that overboost looks almost under control. IMO IMX is still way too high.

You may eventually be forced to put your n249 back.

did you rethink your reasoning for removing it yet?

BTW this forum is DIY, others should not be modifying your bin for you.

I removed the N249 + N112 + SAI Because the SAI is broken.
so i thought just to remove it all
i can install all back into the engine but i need a new SAI.

Also i am trying myself since June without any good results
im just to stupid to make a good tune myself.i dont understand what u mean with "PID Vars" i dont have any clue of how maps really work in ME7.5
im trying to learn here from my mistakes.

SAI is fine to remove. You may just want the n249 back.

https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#PID_scheduling

Thank you,
i will log these

also can i also just put back my combivalve and n249
do i have to put my emission stuff and N112 back into position or can i just block off these ports?

regards.

You really only need the n249 -> DV bits.

Ah..

So i dont need combi valve + N112 to have functional N249?

so I need the following

N249
+ Vacuum reservoir + lines from intake to N249 + check valve

Correct, but I could be mistaken; may want to double check with someone else, as I've not done this personally on a 1.8t with SAI

Okay thanks i will put the n249 in the car tomorrow.
also do i need to change ESKONF back to original after putting n249 back?

Yes, probably.

The thing is, looking at your logs, the DV should have opened from mani vac w/o the 249 (or the vac res)... maybe its not plumbed right, or it is broken?

Also, I dont know of any case where it would cause limp w/o a DTC.

My DV is straight from manifold connected with vacuum line

I have 4 connections on the manifold 2 are blocked

i have 1 vac line to FPR and 1 vac line to DV

looks better, but your limp mode is still sneaky,
please add these vars as well:

B_ldr
B_mibeg
miext_w
miges_w
miist_w
misol_w
miszul_w

I did some boost PID tweaking and deactivated SAI, N112 and N249.
Leave the diverter valve straight connected to Manifold.
If you are not sure about proper function, use original dv for trouble-shooting.

@nyet...sometimes you need a little more help to go on ;-)

Hello

I have 3 springs for actuator

Green: 0.4 - 1.0 Bar
Yellow: 0.6 - 1.0 Bar (currently installed)
Blue: 0.9 - 1.3 Bar

Which spring should i use for the actuator

I think the best one is green and replace the current spring?

Let me know

Kind regards

just leave the previous spring setting until you get acceptable boost behaviour,
makes it more easy keeping the same Hardware/settings for now.
In between try my bin, if my guessing is right, the "limp mode" should be gone

Thank you for your time,
i will try your bin tomorrow
do you have an explanation why the limp is happening?
i have no idea why the limp is even happening as the boost on high rpm's looks fine.
it only happens at high RPM's if i just WOT and shift before 5000 nothing is wrong
i just feel the car holding boost and the gauge is fluctuating.

Revert to stock 710N

I'm thinking boost control shuts down (B_ldr=0),
and yes, this might caused by boost deviation/fluctuation.
To get it finally, it's still important to add all the named vars to your log!
But first things first, let's see how the update boost PID is doing.

I still think there is something wrong with his DV setup that has nothing to do with tune. I'm also not convinced that is what is causing limp, since its the first i've heard of a broken dv causing limp w/o a dtc.

so ya, lets get the PID fixed up and go from there.

Nyet,

i tried 3 different DV's

Original, Aluminium DV, Forge DV, without any succes.

:(((

I suspect you have a compounded issue its gonna be real hard to track it down if you dont start isolating things one by one.

Hello,

im trying to log but it keeps crashing after adding these vars
also when i was driving the boost is fluctuating even more and limp mode is still present.

can you make a .cfg with all the vars u need compatible with the ecu file can't seem to get it working properly without crashing.
also im going on vacation and wont be back till next week thursday i will make a new log next friday.

kind regards

Holy shit the entitlement.
He does not need anything. You are the one who needs things.

This entire thread is how to make someone your slave :/

I don't know why Leonhard here is even trying to polish this turd?

There is 1.6 bar+ overboost at low RPM, with 6 deg of KR. The rods are bent in the engine already. Just a question of when it fails.
Timing is bad, fuel is bad, boost is bad. It's literally easier to start with a stock tune, but I recommend starting with a new engine, because this one is already well under way of putting a hole through the block.
After that go to someone that does real remaps on a dyno and let them map your car.
Problem solved.

Wow very rude.

its just a question??

i didnt tell him to do anything.....

you are the  "turd" here

also im very impressed that you can see from a distance inside the block.
maybe you should try to be a fortune teller?

also the car was already remapped by a company. that i paid 600 euros for
he told me he didnt know why the limp mode was happening.

It comes with 10+ years experience professionally remapping these cars.

You paid 600 for this shit? Great, ask for your money back, find someone on this forum who knows that they are doing, and give them that money instead.

Just remember, nobody owes you anything on here you entitled cunt.

OK, too bad, but that's a result as well,
it turns out to be a hardware thing,
take your time, you'll get the .cfg running

Hello Leonhard,

I think i just might replace the turbo since this issue came after installing the k04-001 hybrid.
altough the vins look completely fine


i cant find any other issue's it must be the turbo itself
i never had this issue with K03S hybrid

What? That makes absolutely no sense. Your tuner did not tune properly for the new K04. End of story.

Yeah, nothing to do with hardware from logs, just a random shit file flashed on.

Of course it's not going to work.

Now it's your turn, you heard all the opinions.
I'm sure you'll get any further help here, if you follow forum rules, diy!
This is what I was trying to get you to

Im always wondered how companies charged half price of a car for absolutely shit and the customer starting to find hw issues and blame everything but the 'professional tuner'

use typical4cyl.cfg in me7l folder

tune your PID, check how to operate with tighter WG spring at s4wiki

The problem is not only pid, look at the first log, it's complete shit.

I swear man when I see the prices of a custom tune by "big" company or "respected" individiual specially in America, then actually see whats going on it really makes me wonder.
Need to start doing it somehow I guess... 600$ lol. TBF I am actually surprised they 'tried' to keep the PID on most just run perma DRAPP...

I confess I only looked at boost, since that's what the original complaint was.

Now that I have looked at the rest.... jesus christ.

Amen. Also, I always enjoy reading your posts.
 

Hello,

I went to the tuner to ask for my money back and he says its impossible for him to do that sadly.
what does exactly need to be redone on this shit tune?

please let me know so i get actual value for my money :)

regards.

There is nothing to "re-do". Whoever made this file has no clue what they are doing.
Not possible to get your money back? Put it in writing (asking money back) then take them to small claims.
Or suck it up as a learning experience.

Certainly don't go that place ever again, because they have no idea what they are doing.

Hello guys.

Im back at it again.

i changed KFLDIMX to 65,75 which fixed the overboost issue (Tight wastegate)
now stable at 1.5 bar

i put the N249 back in after Nyet told me to.
now i have the following issue that really irritates me.
when partial throttle the car sometimes overboosts to 1.3 bar and then jumps back to 0.5 bar
then i hear the the turbo fluttering while on partial throttle
this activates limp mode


what maps do i need to look at to fix this partial throttle boosting issue
any advice / help is appreciated

thanks.

Axis of kfvpdkse
Take a look at the wiki 'tighter wastegate'

did you read any of this yet?
https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#Base_boost_and_wastegate_spring_pressure

Hello Nyet,

I tried to understand it but cant seem to.
i must be really stupid but i trying this now i dont know if i did it right.
i have the 0.6 bar to 1.0 bar spring now

this is original value:

(https://prnt.sc/esL1_Dp6Kc4c)

this is the new value:

(https://prnt.sc/zzqFbrz5V2T0)

did i do it right i dont quite understand the information on the wiki (Possibly because its in english. its very poorly translated to my language)

Didnt take the pics

see attached

(http://Old.png)
(http://New.png)

So youve got this 1 bar spring on a tiny turbo and now youre fighting with it ) why? tighter-better?

Always aim to 80-90% wgdc at full required boost. 0.6 would be enough
Now you have to fill dimx mostly zeroes, raise kfvpdks* axis even more and hope that it could be driveable somehow (and also pray for n75 and vac lines due to any ldr fault would be catastrophic for that setup)

100% agree with the above. There is no good reason for ppl running crazy low wgdcs.

Avoid WOT because the turbocharger doesn't work properly? I would agree if he had GTX2860.
Like I wrote before, the problem is not with the file but with the turbocharger or the actuator.

A k04 is plenty to bend rods on a stock engine, specially a hybrid one with unchecked wgdc/boost profile.

Ok thank you i will replace the actuator spring with 0.4bar to 1bar. Rated one
Im running this actuator because the actuator that came with it was leaking
Also i changed kfvpdks axis using 1.8/1.49=1.20 so i understand this is bar? Should i even raise it more because im running 65% wastegate with 1.3 bar boost the mechanical boost gauge also seems broken as i see in log, in log it states 1.2 to 1.3 bar with 65.75% WGDC while on the gauge it tells me 1.5 bar…..

So kfvpdks is used like this?

1.8 bar new turbo pressure divided by 1.49 old turbo pressure =1.20 and multiply the whole axis with 1.20 like i did above?

Also which spring should be the best,
im getting the idea the yellow one is still too much for this small turbo?
should i leave the yellow in or replace it with the green one.

(http://Screenshot_48.png)

Get a pull with wgdc 0% and see actual boost

fknbrkn,

Max pressure with 0% WGDC is 1340Mbar

It doesn't mean anything, as it has plenty of time to reduce the pressure during the slow increase in rpm. After closing the throttle and opening the wastegate, the pressure should drop down in 0.2-0.3 sec. instead of 1.5-2sec in your case.

Return pdks axis to stock also, seems thats not wot

Hello.

I think the diverter valve is the issue here.....
what if the DV output on the intake is to small e.g. 15mm instead of 25mm?
this could not get the pressure away fast enough at higher boost levels?

im i correct

this could also mean limp mode at higher rpm's
i also figured out when i hit limp i have to press the clutch pedal for atleast 10 seconds (so it drops to 7 a 800 rpm) before the boost is coming back. sometimes i have to switch off ignition for boost to return.

i raised the kfvpds axis higher this fixed the part throttle issue no more limp mode from that

i added a image of what i meant,
on my boost pipe this is 15mm quite small....

(http://Screenshot_1.png)

WTF is that?
The entire thing looks tiny. And yeah DV should not be 15mm...

Picture is from google.

i will go to a local welder and weld in a 27mm DV outlet on the boost pipe.
apart from that why is my car still going in limp in high RPMS.....
i will make a new log with new DV outlet
just out of words tried everything, KFLDIMX is also now lower and is also following the requested boost not overboosting in log

The stock DV's are 25mm/1 inch. It should be atleast that..

Yes that is what i thought so, weird they even makes these boost pipes for 1.8t with smaller DV outlet....

This pipe looks way too small from picture as well. Stock K03 size? Maybe picture shows it that way idk.

Hello,

I switched the wastegate yellow spring for green spring (0.4 bar to 1 bar)
i made new log
lambda is holding on to 0.75 going limp.... this is always the case also with yellow spring in wastegate

(http://Screenshot_2.png)

can someone explain me what is happening im not overboosting anymore

also found this fault code in ECU this is not always showing
it also popped up with overboosting with old yellow spring

(http://image0.jpeg)

i hope someone can explain me what i can do to fix this issue.
i can try to tune the car myself

Kind regards.

Start from stock file so you're not running 8+ deg kr on boost... Certainly don't try to do anything with this crap tune, stock will probably run way better.
As I said before, you will probably need to change the rods in this engine (or buy a new block when it will let go, since they're 99% already bent).
And read. A lot.

I just wanna find out what is triggering this 0.75 lambda....
im not gonna buy a new engine or take it all out, its not worth the time / money
the car is entirely stripped. i just wanna drive it in weekends or in summer just for fun

you'll never figure anything out with that approach.

start from stock, change *one thing at a time*

Yes, this is different from what you have been doing.

No, what you have been doing is totally wrong  - i.e. change a million things then try to figure out what is wrong.

If you fail to follow this advice, forget about getting any other here.

Hello people

I can finally tell why my car is going limp mode and throwing P0299 code

See video below: https://youtube.com/shorts/1yMD1dpdy5g?feature=share

This seems to be the issue fortunately the turbo seller is going to fix this issue because i have this limp mode issue since day 1
Brand new turbo….
Always double check the parts before u install it in the car this took me 8 months to figure out :(

I will update when the new turbo wastegate is in

This does not fix your crap tune.

I know but he tuned it with this wastegate
So he could not properly tune it …..
He would retune it for free after i installed the wastegate

Chinese turbochargers have this problem. I recommend you to check the wastegate port because it can be restricted.

Just weld it in place

Check this out

You don't understand.
This person who "tuned it" should not be let near an ECU, certainly not a customers ECU.
The boost control is not the main problem, the entire thing is a clusterfuck.

Maybe with WG in order it won't go into limp mode, but it still makes fuck all power and will grenade the engine.

The wastegate port is not restricted like chinese turbos
Its just the flap that is not putting enough pressure on the port causing it to leak
The whole flap is just loose while actuator is connected
I hope its not a chinese turbo i paid 875 euros for this hybrid…
Also u recommend me to let it tune by someone else ?
I dont know anyone that is a good tuner / company in my country
I live 10 min away from belgium and 10 min away from germany
Maybe in germany some good tuners ?

Hello guys,

Finally got the turbo out
I can send the turbo to the turbo seller and he would fix it for me for free
but after a better look the wastegate port looks restricted like chinese turbos have.....
i dont think its a great idea to put it back in my car?

what do you guys think about it?

(http://screenshot_6.png)

Chinesium thrash

Really? Maybe it's better to check first? And what did you expect if you have problems with overboost with the N75 open? And it was quite clear from your logs... at least for me.
I don't mean to be impolite but do you have your own opinion?

Did the OP eventually find the problem with overboosting?
I am having the same issue.  I have an aftermarket WG and N75. 
I have just tested the resistance on the N75 which read 24ohm - fine.  Then the ECU plug and I found that voltage to be 8v which is not enough to activate the valve.
I then isolated the earthing issue by using the battery earth instead of the plug and got a full 12v.  The ECU was extended some time back and I think the earth wire is nackered.

Its worth a try if you didn't come right

For this chinese turbo, must make the wastegate screw enought weak and after you can work with n75!
I had the same issue in the past with a gt2871r from maxpeeding and with a OEM garrett too (was more simple with this)
It is not restricted , it is enought to evacuate the problem si chinese wastegate springs.
I said what it works for me.

Yeah, that's why "idiots" from Borg Wagner make a 24mm port instead of 12mm as the "smart" chinese developers do.
I tried everything, even replaced the actuators and springs, nothing helped. All that any tuner can do is to request 0% N75 duty cycle. And if after that there is still overboost, then the turbocharger is crap.

just bore this hole.... flap is much bigger than hole

Try it first, and then give recommendations. It's impossible to do.

Tell me why it is impossible? Grind the flap, use dremel tool to bore out, then weld the flap together as it was. It's about two hour job.

It is not wood or aluminum, so simply boring it out won’t work. Even if there was access deep into the port (no access, by the way), it would still not be 2 hours with a dremel tool.

Use an external wastegate.  And weld the flap shut.  You'll need another manifold though.  It seems odd that out of all the turbo chargers in the world you are the only one that is having an over boosting issue....?  How much air needs to be flowing through that flap to stop your over boosting?  Because even at 12mm that looks like a lot of air.  Are you sure the flap isn't just binding/geting stuck?

yeah... them things are cast, the best you can do with a dremel is flaring them for better airflow, trust me...

If you got a chinese turbo, first thing mark out bigger hole and take off housing and drop it off at a machine shop. Otherwise you could have issues.

I just wrote this post myself http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=22382.0title= and I feel like I am facing almost the exact same issue just on Stock 1.8T with stock map ?
Could you quickly glance over and confirm because if so I think we could try to bounce back ideas what we've done already to rule out unnecessary fixes

Nah, there's issue with wastegate port too small, that's common on chinese turbos. On oe setup this problem does not persist.