NefMoto

I don't need any of the standard conjecture here. I'm trying to hear facts.

I'm in the process of building my engine and don't need to be doing it twice. Right now, here's where I'm at:

Late model block w/eurospec studs
Stock pistons
Chinese rods
JE Nickel Carbon Steel wrist pins
Goetze rings
Stock crankshaft riding on Coated Glyco bearings
Billet LWFW
Fresh 2.8 heads with Iconel exhaust valves, supertech springs/seats/retainers
RS4 cams

I plan on balancing 50/50 (stock is 60/40 IIRC), and running GT2871R eliminators.

I'd like to know what to expect in terms of the next week link. I have 0 intentions of running E85, I have direct port meth injection and 94 octane right down the road. The way I see it most of these block failures have been tuned for E85 without a dyno and were likely running retarded (read: exceeding MBT) timing.

Pick my build apart, help me make it better before it's completed and I'm left in utter disappointment. I'd rather spend the money now than spend twice as much fixing something I overlooked the first time.

Most 2.7t's stock bottom end, I've seen to this point running robust setups (up to 6766) on e85 most failures happen at the rods. Most recent 2.7t I've seen was running some pretty aggressive timing throughout the curve. I havn't had alot of experience with e85 but from what I've read, its LESS susceptible to knock(for obvious reasons).  When the mix flash point is hit.... you know the rest. I say keep a smooth curve to the torque delivery and run aggressive timing within reason. 8500rpm shouldn't be a problem dependent on the bearings you used. You'll be fine just my 2 cents.

Almost forgot... I prefer using rifle drilled rods for high revs and longevity.

got a target C/R?

Where'd you get the wrist pins?

Any truth to the Glyco bearings being far inferior to OEM?

Which LWFW?

I got the pins direct from JE.

http://www.jepistons.com/Products/787-2250-18-PTC.aspx

I also bought some C-350 Steel Casidiam (DLC) coated Precision Products Nascar (lol) pins, they're lighter, but they're also only 2" long (vs stock 2.25). We'll see what the machine shop says about them.

Target CR is 8.5:1

As for the Glyco bearings, I've used them for years in everything from Diesels making 1500+tq, to stock rebuilds. Never an issue.

LWFW is tricky, I have 2. One Fidanza, and one for my tilton.

How are you planning on hitting 8.5:1 with stock pistons?

I've only seen 1/2 point and full point spacers.

Also, you do not need this kind of RPM for those turbos. Not even close.

The 2.7TT is like any other 5v head. Do the springs and the exhaust valves and you can rev over 8k no problem.

034 has the .7 point spacers on their site, I ordered (and received) them months ago.

As for the RPM, my needs didn't really factor in. I don't NEED big turbos at all. I sure like them though :P

Oh ok, I haven't seen them.

I don't think you are asking for trouble. Everyone wants to talk about these inevitable main failures at 600wtq, but there have only been a small few and the details are questionable.

Any failsafe planned for the direct port meth?

No failsafe as of yet. I'll be running KR based enrichment, and checking my tank regularly. My truck had meth for the longest time, and if you let it run out while towing (heavy) you were sure to meltdown. As such, I'm religious about checking my levels (and a 10 gallon tank won't hurt). I figure I'll run your map switching program. When the low meth light comes on, I'll change to my 93 map. I don't really see myself needing to run meth all the time considering the size of the turbos. It's not like it'll be anemic without it.

For gauges I have Dual Bank wideband, Dual bank EGT probes, and fuel pressure. I'm considering a backpressure setup as well, but we'll see.

Thoughts on what I can expect for HP/TQ on this setup? I don't like making estimates, but the only other car I've tuned with GT's was a 2560 car (and even that felt impressive).

Get Aquamist HFS-3 and forget stupid issues like checking tanks and other yadda yadda :P

I'll be using the N335 output from the ecu to control the meth activation via KFLUKL and VLUKL.

As far as checking the tank, I'll do it whenever I get gas. Not a big deal for me.

I've seen carnage pics of the keyway for the timing pulley on the crankshaft sheared off because of high rpm. USPMotorsports had problems with flywheel bolts snapping off before they installed a Fluidampr. There are these friction washers available to put between the flywheel and crank, timing pulleys and crank pulleys to keep them from slipping.
 Not sure but assuming the 2.7tt cams are about the same construction as the 1.8t cams, Integrated Engineering welds the cam chain sprockets on the 1.8t cams because they slip @ high rpm.

which Chinese rods are you running?

http://racingpartsmaximum.com/importrod.html

make sure to get DLC washer for your timing sprocket, it will prevent slipping at high rpms. Flywheel doesn't need that since it has 8 bolts preventing it from slipping while timing sprocket has only the keyway (it will turn freely once keyway is gone).

I would also be very apprehensive about running anything over stock thickness HGs... in my mind, any foreign metal between block and head is just a way for pressures to work its way through there and causing HG failure. More of it, easier to leak...

As to WM. USing the flap output seems kind of binary and lacks precision. I will be converting my system to use IDC (injector duty cycle). That is the most accurate way to control WM injection since it will directly correlate to amount of fule injected. MAF input is not accurate since MAF flow to voltage is not linear.

Conversion will involve making fairly simple board to convert input 12v to 5v and then PWM signal (which injector on/off is) to 0-5v voltage. Three electronic components total. Output of this will go into standard WM controller (Vast in my case) and there I can adjust things with pots.

I think you will be good to go.  Block failures arent as much of a thing as some tuners want people to think.

from what I can tell 2.7t block failures are rewards for doing something very very dumb in the tune..

generally, running too lean, too much timing, oil supply failure, stupid EGTs, etc.

the 2.7t block is DAMN stout in stock form.

I decided not to chance it.

(http://i.imgur.com/n4ATIjgl.jpg)

YOBO (You'll Only Blow Once)

now thats purdy. :-*

I hate those.  More power to you for messing with it.  I have one I bought for myself and after doing a few for customers I was over them.

Dude, it was a nightmare. Cutting the oilpump, cutting holes in the pan (which I am STILL waiting for from my welder).

I would not have done it had I known what a PITA it would be.

These blocks blow at around 1000 whp - cracks in the water jacket…

8500 rpm is borderline for a 5/16 inch arp 2000 with heavy rods and pistons.

what am i looking at here??? did you make a brace for your block?  im going to start my build soon too so im currently taking notes on everything i read.

It's a eurospec girdle :)

SRM makes one as well, or I have another 3.0 shortblock already girdled and ready to go if that sort of thing interests you. The machining and setup for the girdle is hell. Modifying the pan alone....

Just get an RS4 block  ;D

Why do you want to use RS4 Cams instead of 2.8 Cams?

Think about 2.5TDI Oilpump  ;)

There is no such thing as RS4 cams. RS4 uses 2.4 NA cams.

That is why I asked for 2.8 Cams  ;)

I was enjoying your thread daz, any updates??

Soon. Very soon.