NefMoto

Requirements

• - Windows laptop (Tested with Windows 7 32-bit and 64-bit, Windows 8/8.1 64bit). Other versions may work, virtual machines may work, but are not well tested.
• - KKL lead or genuine RossTech lead. Leads that are known to work are listed here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=325.0title=
• - Motronic 7.x ECU in car or with bench flashing kit. Bench flashing described here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=417.0title= and here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6324.0title=

Setup NefMoto and Drivers

• - Download NefMoto from here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2200.0title=
• - If you are using a KKL lead, download D2xx drivers from here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
• - Install NefMoto.
• - Unzip the d2xx drivers to a temporary directory. With the Rosstech cable there is no need for extra drivers, but you must set it to dumb mode (Open VCDS --> Options --> uncheck ‘Boot in intelligent mode’ or check ‘Boot in dumb mode’ – depending on your version of VCDS).

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10245;image)

• - Plug in your KKL lead (it is recommended to use the same usb port each time you plug it in - windows can attach different drivers to different usb ports, and the com port number may change if you plug into a different port).
• - Open device manager (Start -> Control Panel -> System-> Device Manage) and view 'Ports (COM & LTP). In this case Windows has identified it as a USB com port and installed a driver, but this needs updating to make sure it is the latest driver, so click 'Update Driver', 'Browse my computer for driver software', and select the directory you unzipped the d2xx drivers too. Once drivers are up to date, set your com port to com1 - this is not necessary for NefMoto but it makes it easier for other tools (Port Settings -> Advanced..).

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10219;image)

Connect to the ECU
Plug the obd connector into the diagnostics port on your car or bench flashing lead, turn the ignition on, then open up NefMoto from the start menu. Nefmoto should detect the lead and show it in the box circled in green:

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10221;image)

If Nef does not detect the lead then:

• - Click 'Refresh Devices'
• - Check the ignition is on/bench lead is powered up - if your KKL lead has a light then it should be on
• - Close and reopen NefMoto
• - If you are using a RossTech lead check it is in dumb mode. (Open VCDS, Options, tick 'Force Dumb Mode' or uncheck ‘boot in intelligent mode’
• - Unplug and replug in your lead
• - Check your device manager is not showing an issue for your device
• - Reboot

Once the cable is detected, select the baud rate as 38400 Baud, make sure 'Slow init' is selected, then click 'Connect Slow Innit'.

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10223;image)

If you are lucky, then you have successfully connected to the ECU, and clicking 'Read ECU Info' will read some basic information from the ECU. If it has not connected on the first try, then try it again, but if it still does not work, you may need to do some troubleshooting:

• - Try lowering the Baud rate.
• - If you get the message 'Failed to read test echo from FTDI device', check that the lead is plugged into the diagnostic connector, check that the diagnostic connector fuse hasnt blown and check that the ignition is on
• - If you are trying to connect in the car, try unplugging the fuses for your instruments. There are usually two fuses for instruments, a permenant feed and an ignition switched feed, if you have full-dis there may be a fuse for the screen too.
• -  If you are having issues connecting to a ME7.5 ECU on the bench (such as 1.8T ECUs, check pin 121 on the ECU plug is powered, see: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6324.0title=
• - If you are using a bench lead, try connecting in the car.
• - If you are still having issues, check that you can connect VCDS or a diagnostic scanner to the ecu and succesfully read fault codes, if not you may have an issue with your car or bench setup

Read Flash from ECU
Once successfully connected, attempt to read the flash file from the ECU, by clicking the 'KWP2000 Flashing' tab.

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10225;image)

To enable the read/write flash buttons, you must select the memory layout:
- 512kb ECUs - use 29F400BB (Early 1.8T)
- 1024kb ECUs - use 29F800BB (Late 1.8T, 2.7T)
If you are unsure what size your ECU is, a quick google will probably answer the question (search for the part number that nef lists when you connect, e.g. “KWP1281 connect info: 6A906032HN”, and ecu size), if not the flash size is listed on the top of the chip inside of the ECU. You can read a 400BB flash using the 800BB memory layout. It will read an extra 512kb past the end of the file, if you chop it in half you are good to go.

Click 'Choose Memory Layout', open the 'Memory Layouts' directory and select the memory layout file that corresponds to your ecu size, e.g. 'ME7 29F400BB.MemoryLayout.xml' or 'ME7 29F800BB.MemoryLayout.xml':

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10227;image)

The 'Full Read Flash' button should now be available, so click this and it should start to read your ECU - sit back and wait a few minutes. If all is successful, Nef will prompt you where you want to save the flash file you have read.

To check your read was successful, use me7check (http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=447.0) to verify the file you have read:

• - Download me7check and save it in the same directory as you saved the flash file
• - Open a command prompt and change to the directory where you saved the flash file
• - Run “me7check <flash file>” (you can also drag the file after you write ME7check)

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10231;image)

If you failed to read the flash, then you will need to do some more troubleshooting:

• - If NefMoto pops up with a message saying 'Immobilizer not authenticated', then you will be unable to read/write the flash because the immobilizer will prevent access. To read/write this ECU you must first either authenticate the ECU (by reading it in the car with a paired cluster and key), or delete the immobilizer from the ECU. More information on immobilizer delete is here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5068.0title=
• - If you got the message 'Disconnecting because no response was received for the Tester Present message.' then check that if you are flashing a me7.5 ECU (most 1.8T), if so ensure pin 121 is powered up, as described here: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6324.0title=
• - Drop the baud rate to 38400 after you have connected to the ECU.

What Next?
After reading flash off their ECU, most people want to remap their car – to increase power, remove emissions control systems, add extra functionality etc. Nefmoto and the forums will not do this for you – you will need to put in the effort to remap your car, if you are prepared to learn then people will help you. If you want it to be done for you, go pay a professional tuner.

If you are inexperienced and need to use your car, consider buying a used ECU and tuning that instead, so you can recover any read/write failures. You should also prepare for a bricked ecu by making sure you have a bootmode flashing tool, such as galletto or mpps.(http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/ECU_Bench_Flashing)

To map your car, first read the S4 wiki to understand the basics, most of this information is relevant to other cars, such as the 1.8t: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

You will need a map editor, such as winols (expensive) or tunerpro (free).

You will need an ECU definition file, often called an ‘XDF’, ‘kp’ or ‘Damos’, to identify the maps and parameters in your flash file. The definition file is like an index to the bin, it states the location of each map and how big it is. If you do not have a definition file for your ECU, try asking in the definition files request section: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=34.0

If you cannot find a definition file for your ECU, consider using a different bin file which does have good definitions – many ecu’s can be cross flashed. This should not be attempted at random and you should stick to proven combinations until you are familiar with mapping, 512kb and 1024kb ECUs are not interchangeable. A good example of this is the ‘S4 M-box’ which can be used on many other 2.7T ECUs – more information is here http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Generations. If you are attempting this, look through threads talking about cross flashing, or ask for suggestions.

If you modify a flash file, you must correct the checksum prior to writing that flash to an ECU – otherwise a fault code will be triggered and the car may not run. Checksums can be corrected using winols, via the MTX plugin for tunerpro (www.mtx-electronics.com/prodotti/Software:tunerpro-checksum-plugins) or by asking nicely in the Checksum Update Requests forum: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=35.0

Writing Flash to ECU
Before writing the flash, verify that the checksum is correct, using me7check:

• - Open a command prompt and change to the directory where you saved the flash file
• - Run “me7check <flash file>” (you can also drag the file after you write ME7check)

If the flash file is OK, me7check will report no errors, if it has a checksum error it will report as below:

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10233;image)

If your file has checksum errors, DO NOT write it to the ECU.

Once you are happy that your flash file has no errors and is compatible with your ECU:

• - Open up NefMoto, connect to the ECU as described above and select the ‘KWP2000 Flashing’ tab.
• - Click ‘Choose Flash File’ and select the file you wish to flash to your ECU.
• - Verify you have selected the correct memory layout for your ECU.
• - Click ‘Full Write Flash’
• - NefMoto will pop up asking for you to confirm that it is good to write:
  

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10235;image)

Sit back and wait for nefmoto to complete, if all goes well it should write the ECU within 3-10 minutes:

(http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6537.0;attach=10237;image)

Once it has finished flashing, turn off the ignition if the ECU is in the car, if it is on the bench, disconnect the power.

FAQ
Q: What cars does Nefmoto flasher support ?
A: Nefmoto supports most ME7.1  and ME7.5 VAG group ECU`s . It is great for 1.8 20VT and 2.7 bi Turbo ME7 cars. More info: http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/NefMoto_ECU_Flashing_Software

Q: Will my cable work with Nefmoto?
A: A: Most KKL cables and genuine RossTech cables will work with NefMoto. Read the “Setup Nefmoto” section of this guide for more info and links.

Q: Can I use nefmoto to immo delete an immobilized ECU?
A: A: No, nefmoto is used to read/write the flash, the immobilizer is stored in the eeprom

Q: Will nefmoto tune my car?
A: A: No...it is just a flashing software , nefmoto forums will help you a lot though

Q: Will you tell me exact steps to tune my ECU?
A: A: No. Go read the S4 wiki, read the forum, people will help you if you put in effort

Q: Will you tune my ECU for me?
A: A: No, go find a pro tuner, pay them

Q: Can I harm my ECU in any way?
A: A: Yes, if you are not careful. On most cars you can read the ECU without any issues, however on some cars reading will cause a fault code to be set which prevents the car from starting - if the car does not run after reading, re-flash the file you just read from the ECU. This is the case for '04-06 Allroads, and can occur on some others. Go to his forum section for useful info http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=16.0

Q: If I damage my ECU can nefmoto recover it ?
A: A: In case of a bricked ECU , then no..you will need to flash it in boot mode using Galletto or MPPS,check it here http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/ECU_Bench_Flashing

Q: What is an ‘M-box’?
A: A: An Audi S4 8D0907551M ecu. Generally considered to be a good basis for S4 tuning as it has good definitions.

Q: I have a xxxxxxxxxxK K-box, can I flash on a M-box?
A: A: The ‘?-box’ shorthand only refers to S4 ECUs, and the ?-box is irrelevant if you are not talking about an S4 ECU. Cross flashing is only possible between compatible ECUs, and even ECUs that are the same part number with a different letter may be incompatible.

Links

• Latest Nefmoto software: http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/NefMoto_ECU_Flashing_Software
• FTDI Drivers D2XX: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
• Nefmoto Wiki: http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
• S4 Tuning wiki: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

Adding Dumb mode picture

To Add to the Settings for the VCDS cable.

Make sure you remove the boot intelligent mode in both your Main VCDS and Beta version if you are running any.

I followed the guide last night.
Personally, I got stuck as soon as I needed to select the if the ECU file is 512k or 1024k.
I googled as per suggestions given, with no answer provided I'm afraid. So that is where I stopped.

How do we go about finding out if our ECU's are in fact 512kb or 1024kb?
Is there a tell sign or info provided via VCDS that can confirm this for us?

My Box code is D, I did however find the answer on a M-box code.

http://nyet.org/cars/files/stock/part-numbers.txt

Yeah !

Interestingly, I some how had that link open on my laptop at hom already. So unless 512K is at the end of the ECU info.
All other are always 1024k meaning we use the 29F800BB file checker?

Good to know

The other listed ecu's are, most recent ecu's are, some older ones are 512kb.

so i tried to do a read on my wifes gti just now and i get this error any ideas why or to get around it?
(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae19/generationmotorsports/gtiecuread_zps713d98df.png) (http://s953.photobucket.com/user/generationmotorsports/media/gtiecuread_zps713d98df.png.html)

38400 baud.

I tired different baud rates but just for fun i went to try it again and got this error. Disconnected because no response was received for the tester present message. What can this be?

(http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae19/generationmotorsports/gtiecuread2_zps547c4a6e.png) (http://s953.photobucket.com/user/generationmotorsports/media/gtiecuread2_zps547c4a6e.png.html)

On 1.8t that usually means that pin121 is not powered up. You are doing this on the bench?

The same error is in some TT`s and other VAG cars due to Dash.

Remove the dash fuse :)

no its in the car. The weird thing is I was able to connect a few hours earlier. I was gonna try removing the fuses today and see if that helps out. I know the car has some sort of tune on it but its a shitty tune.

Hi
I have an issues with 1.8T BFB
this is the message from the nefmoto.
Validating flash memory starts at 0x00800000 and ends at 0x00900000.
Validation failed, ECU reports that security access is not granted.

Memory lay out is for 1024kBytes hence shoud work without problem. Can you give me some hint how to solve it out

BFB is A4 , is it B6 or B7 ? B7 cant be read with Nefmoto at all.. I dont know why .

Hi

I have b7.
I solution is that: do FULL unistal Nefmoto, and FULL instal.
Next connect to car and there is still same message with no validation of memory layout but when you click OK it works and read ECU. Definitelly there will be and issue with start of the car after flash reading. Therefore reloead (write flash) and it will start with no issue

I was showing an acquaintance the ropes of tuning and I guided him to your thread. I told him prior he needed to hook his battery up to a charger and use a multimeter/voltimeter to monitor the voltage during the duration of the flash procedure, Then he told me I was wrong because it doesn't say anything about that in here lol  :P ... So I skimmed through the guide and I didn't see it either.

I'll admit, maybe we both accidentally missed it, but if in fact theres nothing about it there, maybe it would be worth while to add it?

If it is there then excuse our oversight and carry on lol  :D

Steady battery voltage is important. Nefmoto even says it before writing.
Just because it isn't listed here on the site, doesn't mean you don't have to do it. At the dealership, we always use battery maintainers. Computers don't like low voltage situations, especially during programming.

The ECU could care less about the voltage unless it drops significantly below 10V. There is pretty strong voltage rectification going on, caps and so on.
The ECU will flash when the car doesn't even have enough capacity left to crank. Because the usage is miniscule.

The only times you need a battery charger are when:
1. The ECU turns the fans on during flashing.
2. The flash is very long (30+ minutes)
3. The car has a nearly dead battery

In fact I screwed up against point 1 on a Bosch ECU once, and the voltage oscillated so much that the fans stopped and then restarted constantly, but the ECU completed the flash just fine.
A lot of the shit you do at the dealership isn't really relevant when you know what you are doing and how things work.

As to the reason why the flash fails - security access is denied.
Can be due to modified seed/key algo, can be also due to a number of other things - the engine running, previous security access attempts with incorrect seed/key (resulting in lockout) and so on.
On some Renault ECU's even because engine temp is above a certain number. Voltage is not it though - these ECU's usually flash fine on bench at 10 volts.

What I do is relevant. Locked modules because of low/inconsistent voltages has happened. Below 10Vs and you're running into trouble. Why not just have steady voltage and avoid potential issues? Not necessary when you'll  only be working with the ignition on for a short time. Software updates can take 45 minutes to over an hour at the dealer. All modules get updated (70+!) so it takes time. Nothing wrong with a steady 13.5V.

Thanks for the info. Renault ecu's can be temp sensitive? That's nuts. ;)

We are not talking about flashing all the modules in the car here, just the ECU.
Why you don't need to have charger? For the simple reason that:
1) If you are using correct protocol to write, you can't brick the ECU even if the power cuts out - you will always be able to get into the loader again and flash again.
2) It's a hassle to connect it every time, can't be done on the road and so on.

As I've said - I've been doing this for a while and I only recall ONE case through the thousands of times I've flashed ECU's in various cars that I had a write fail due to voltage dropout... and that was recovered swiftly after simply connecting a charger and restarting the write. I wasted maybe 10 minutes max instead of wasting 10 minutes per write on shit that is extremely unlikely to give you any problems.

I am sure that just as there are ECU's that reject security access when the coolant temperature is above a certain value, there are also probably some ECU's that reject security access based on too low voltage. Although I have never experienced this yet.

This all said - I do have a 30 amp charger with some very long leads wallmounted in my dyno room. And I have countless others around the workshop. If I am flashing anything that takes longer than 20 minutes I tend to connect the charger. However, I've been usually doing that AFTER the write has already started (because I have nothing better to do) - never had an issue with that either.

Car power, or laptop power? My flashing takes seconds, so I don't care about car battery power. Just note that for some ECUs the flashing procedure can be restarted only if you don't kill the ignition power in the meantime (sure there are ECUs that will boot up into flashing after power loss, mine does not). For laptop power - the laptop can die for several other reasons than just power (I always properly reboot mine after a couple of days of sleep / work cycles, because when my total up-time reaches about 4 weeks the probability that the laptop will die out of nothing increases exponentially). For powering - having a laptop charger around the car and power socket means one more reason for me or my kids to trip over it and f-up everything.

That's because you are not using correct protocol to flash it. Using correct protocol there are bit(s) set that notify the loader whether flashing was completed.
When overwriting the loader usually another loader is written to a different area and a pointer is set to it before the initial loader is erased.

I am sure with a factory tool you can turn of power nearly at any stage of the flash process and it will successfully restart the write.

EDIT: I removed what I have written up before, I crawl into my hole now. (I mixed up the addresses when I wrote that).

Quote:
"If you are unsure what size your ECU is, a quick google will probably answer the question (search for the part number that nef lists when you connect, e.g. “KWP1281 connect info: 6A906032HN”, and ecu size), if not the flash size is listed on the top of the chip inside of the ECU. You can read a 400BB flash using the 800BB memory layout. It will read an extra 512kb past the end of the file, if you chop it in half you are good to go."

Great but is there a layout so I know which chip to look at?!?!
The 2 big ones are CPUs apparently, the long one has a white sticker...
I have looked for '512'or '1024' but nothing.

Under long chip's label shows if 512 or 1024.
Eureka!!

I have built a bench setup and still fail to read from backup ecu.
from http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=417.0title=

ECU
P1 + P2 = Ground
P3 + P62 = 12v
P43 = K-Line
P21 = ignition (added switch to wire)

OBD plug (KKL-blue from recommended source and is recognised in NefMoto)
P4 = Ground
P7 = K-Line
P16 = 12v

connect usb to pc, open Nefmoto power PSU (Wii PSU 12v 3.7A works well for Saab ECUs)
Ign switch off.
Baud to 38400
as following: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6537.0title=
however connects at 10400!
turn switch on (to pin 21 ignition) connects fine
read ecu info, good
continue to KWP2000 Flashing tab to read ecu
select correct mem layout.
Click 'full read flash'
"immobilizer not authenticated", continue
shows:

-Immobilizer not authenticated
Continuing despite programming session preconditions not being met.
Negotiating communication timings.
Successfully changed to new communication timings.
Requesting security access.
Security access granted.
Starting diagnostic session.
Unable to properly start diagnostic session, attempting to continue with current undefined session.
This can occur if the security lockout is running, or the engine is running. Please turn off the ignition and retry if this continues to fail.
Negotiating communication timings.
Too many consecutive unsolicited messages from ECU, disconnecting.
Disconnecting...
Disconnected
Reading ECU flash memory failed.
100% complete.
Restoring Windows sleep mode.

Is there a wire i've missed, do I need to ground something inside?!?

Need to get into bootmode to read original ECU which has Revo map on it.

Tried another method: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5068.0#msg49080
no joy.

You need to clone it in boot or use a tool that supports immobilizer bypass.

RequestUpload needs securityaccess to pass in programming session and that's not gonna happen with the immo not authenticated.
Same for RequestDownload.

The ECU content can be read using another method, but not with the tools available here.

This Cable works ?



https://www.ebay.de/itm/183127997752?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

I bought one that looked exactly the same from a different seller and it worked. It has the FT232 chip which is the important part...

Ok when i try to flash read i get immobilizer not authenticated what do i need to do

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Did you actually read this? http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=6537.msg116267#msg116267

Pulling the immo ( ic fuse) wouldnt work? sometimes my mpps doesnt do flash thru obd, but i pull ic fuse, cycle key, put it back in and it works :D American cars dont/shouldnt have immo btw.

I did I am trying to flash an immo off  eemprom but got this error the last time I tried  Searching Chip_Select pin ... FAIL. (error=0x01) to fix it if I know what part of the code to change I would flash with Galleto 1260  



Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Followed the Getting Started Guide using a supposedly genuine VAG KKK-Line USB cable. When I plug the USB cable in it installs the latest FTDI 2xxx drivers in Win 10 but in the Events section of the driver I get this message:

“Device FTDIBUS\VID_0403+PID_6001+47514789A\0000 requires further installation.”

I searched online and the MS support forum states this is an ongoing issue...

I suspect this is the reason why I am getting the following error message over and over even after refreshing and repowering the ECU when I try to use the Nefmoto software:

“Failed to read test echo from FTDI device.”

Has anyone been able to get Win10 to read a ME 7.1.1 ECU and if so do you show the "...further installation required" in the driver events section?

I have confirmed the bench harness is wired correctly and the voltages and grounds on the PCB are correct.

TIA

Yes, ME7.1.1 works fine in win10. Try another cable.

Thanks nyet. Can you or someone else confirm if the message in the driver Events area exist because MS says this is an ongoing issue. Device manager claims the device is installed and properly working but it does not appear to be the case. I'll need to purchase another cable to do any further testing.

UPDATE:

It turned out to be a Windows issue with failing to properly install updates even though there were no error messages and no yellow exclamation icons in the driver settings. The solution was to use the Windows Media Creation download to "Update this PC" which reinstalled everything. This is a known issue in WIN 10 V. 1803 and 1903.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-hardware/i-have-win-10-v-1903-installed-and-i-get-the/f8e98d77-cc7b-49da-a7ac-59ec36b24c25?tm=1571356948589

For anyone working with a ME 7.1.1 ECU with the ST10 chip you might want to try a MPPS cable to read the ECU as the Nef software was unable to read mine with a K-Line cable and the Galletto cable only works in boot mode which is not always possible with ST10 chipped ECUs contrary to the jumper permutations shown in pics online.

The MPPS cable worked for me and the 64 bit driver worked fine under Win 10 even though the Ebay sellers know nothing about Win 10.

https://www.ebay.com/i/254061717723?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254061717723&targetid=475515278101&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016917&poi=&campaignid=6469750705&mkgroupid=78329391340&rlsatarget=pla-475515278101&abcId=1141176&merchantid=101701404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6N30qNe45QIVAdbACh2lqAUMEAQYAyABEgJ_K_D_BwE

Earlier and cheaper MPPS cables (version V13 I believe), will also work with ST10 chipped ECUs but the included drivers may not work for Win 7 or Win 10 so choose accordingly.

This is a tricky topic because while Nef does not work with ST10 (which is the main gap in documentation, since it isn't clear how to tell a user to determine if their ecu is ST10), bootmode will work with galletto and any cable (assuming the galletto exe is hacked correctly).

What confuses people further is that getting many ME7.1.1 ecus (st10 and otherwise) into bootmode can be challenging.

So there are a ton of moving parts here, not all of which I know how to document in shortform w/o being overly confusing in a "getting started guide"

Yup it can be a real cluster. That's why I suggested that the MPPS cable might be a better choice for most people if they open the ECU and determine they have the ST10 chip.

Hi There Im new here and I am going thrue all the topics here.

I have an issue with most of the pages where it goes about engine codes and the Generations Wiki - my engine code is ARE but cant find it nowhere here..

http://files.s4wiki.com/stock/part-numbers.txt

For those who are new and reading up on which cables to use, you will find all links except for the very latest posts do not show as sellers change over time. Some of the ECUs such as the ST10 7.1.1 are a hybrid ECU design that many people are unable to read with a standard KKL cable with the Nef software. The MPPS V18 and some other cables read these however and have 32/64-bit drivers for Windows 7/10 if needed.

Thanks nyet. Is my EC interchangable with others and is it 512k cos it does not say on the list you have shared.

If it doesn't say 512K it's 1M

i keep getting "ECU reports that security access request was rejected " anyone have any thoughts ? kinda stumped ?

If using nefmoto flasher, try different connection speeds. Worked for me

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk

i tried all the speeds and still the same thing