NefMoto

I guess for starters a easily attainable set of larger injectors that require few to moderate amount of alterations to get working. If anyone is considering stage 2 I would even say better intercooler solution too. Other bits like ignition system and such I guess may be suggested. I'm not a pro just an amateur learning myself, others may chime in with greater suggestions too  :)

Well, there is also the question of what stage 2 is..

On the 2.7t, stage 2 means chip + exhaust, and stage 2+ means chip + dp + exhaust... neither call for injectors.

I am not familiar enough with the 1.8t tuning conventions to know what stage 2 means for 1.8t...

Any input?

Some stage 2's also ask for fmic and 4bar fpr.

I think we're going to need a way to get more fuel into the engine.  We're already approaching the limit of what the stock injectors can do for duty cycle. Intercooler upgrade and full exhaust/DP would allow a lot of room for tuning. Maybe a 2.0T coil swap too (cheap enough). I heard they are the dogs dangly bits.

I cant afford most of these upgrades at the moment, hopefully someone will do the project with their car and post logs etc. I'm going to continue to refine the stage 1 file until I've saved enough to do the next upgrade properly.

My understanding of stage2 on a 1.8t is:
-dp (stock is tiny)
-fmic
-exhaust
-filter/cai

But that's just from reading skoda forums and could be incomplete.

This is true on the return system cars. Problem is, the returnless are out of fuel at 15psi-lol.

That is pretty much stage 2 on a 1.8t.

3" turbo back, supersize TIP, filter, FMIC.

If you're holding as much as the little K03(s) can hold, you'll run out of injector DC pretty fast.

That said, mine took 10k of solid abuse, NLS and AL on a daily basic and it never threw up, or threw a rod!  Loved that engine..

That said, the K04-064 that's in it just now is loooovely! :)

Could use a 4 bar fpr to get a little more out of the stock injectors, right?  That's only $40.

In my opinion, stage II would require;

downpipe at the very least, full turboback exhaust is best
better cooling (intercooler, wmi)
an upgraded TIP would be nice, but not really required.

On a normal stage2, yep. B6 being returnless and all kinda ruins that.

Stage 2 for k03s requires
-4bar fpr
-225hp 386cc injectors
-225hp maf
-fmic
-wastgate forge
1.7bar over and 1.1 limiter boost. With those you can make 250+hp

There is no need for a TT225 maf on a k03 car. Hell. There is no need for a TT225 MAF on a bolt on K04 car either. Injectors don't hurt, but you definitely don't need injectors AND a 4 bar FPR.

If only there was some standard that defined the different stages, like an rfc

I consider stage 2 to be all supporting mods to gain maximum performance from the stock turbo and block. The experts (not me) can tell what components are restrictive on the stock car. It's not just the finetuning in my opinion, the best recommended tuners in the Netherlands will write a car specific tune on a stock components engine (true stg 1, just software) as well to max performance. The "off the shelf chip/1 chip suits all" philosophy is not that common around here as in the US.

In the uk the 518al which is the same as the 518ak is a return less 4bar fuel system, with in filter fpr.

Running 386cc 225bhp at 0.83 lambda will see you at around 200grams Maf ie 245bhp before they start running 100 IDC..

3" Maf isn't needed for stage 2 but decent TIP is

3" downpipe is needed,

And fmic

Main issue with stage 2 power is the timing, with higher boost levels and the poor flowing turbine housing you can easily be down to 2degrees timing at 6k

Porting the exhaust manifold helps

stage 2 from my pov is the
4bar fpr
downpipe
fmic

with the 1.2 to 1.0 boost level

p.s. tt225 injectors are stupid idea anyway because new 550s are cheaper than used tts

I agree especially in regards to the 550cc injectors ; I have a set of 550cc bosch ev14s , correct nozzle pattern as well as low cost ~140-200 bucks.

Is the FPR mounted in the filter in the US cars 3 or 4 bar? I think there are 4 ports on those filters...Is there a way to add a larger fpr without much hasslehoff?

In US it's 4 bar there was a vin cut off point where some cars had 3 or 4 ports, and its regulator located in the fuel filter unfortunately.

modified to add this url:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/363026-Very-Simple-way-to-make-your-B6-non-returnless-fuel

Seems to me that very few of you who have chimed in with your 2 cents have bothered to read the title of this thread.

8E0909518AK... for a B6 A4.

B6, as in a returnless fuel system.

Returnless.

Let me reiterate... Returnless.

On the B6 returnless system, you cannot adjust the fuel pressure by changing the FPR. The FPR is built into the fuel filter.

So, on a stage 2 B6 A4, injectors are a must. TT 225 injectors are cheap and plentiful, as are Volvo 1.9T injectors.

My B6 is ready to go with FSI coils, 225 TT injectors, test pipe and custom exhaust. I'm ready to proceed with stage 2!

That's a little bit harsh!

I am more than aware what the a4 b6 has and those that don't then this is a good place to start.

Stage 1 fuel pressure isn't an issue but stage 2 it is potentially.

225bhp Injectors will see u upto and around 240bhp on the static 4 bar fuel filter .However if it's never been replaced 3.5 bar is more than possible as seen on 2 current cars a4 b6 I've worked on and then you'll be lucky to see 280bhp .. So I'd almost suggest the 1st thing you do before starting out on a stage 2 is to either go and fit a return or a new filter

I agree. There is the return system conversion, but IMO Making the B6 A4 fuel system into a return system is very invasive, kind of a Frankenstein move, and could have some serious safety issues if "BRO-mod-stage-2 guy" doesnt know how to work with gasoline. Not the kind of free advice I would personally give to the average knucklehead trying to go a bit faster.

The necessary modifications should include parts that are easy to find, reasonably priced (this is a DIY) and don't require too many work-arounds to implement. Plug and play, with the exception of exhaust.

If everyone likes edgy's setup to start, I say start. We can always add to/modify the necessary modifications list as we go along.

I swear these injectors do their job really well...

Bosch 550cc , dual cone correct pattern , correct connector converters included, stock fuel rail height retained too no spacers required.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310872550059?item=310872550059&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

they are good .. but be wary they're fake ones around which don't work.. at $150 I'd be sceptical for 550's

I pay significantly less than that.

Source??

Do you want to order 100 of them?

If not, my source won't help.

If you want to piggyback onto an order, I think my last quote was 27 bucks each with adapters. Maybe 30, depends on when I do it.

You spent a grand on injectors?! :o

I guess if you're selling them on it'll be alright!

Put me down for a quartet after xmas daz. I'll pm you when the money's ready.

27 bucks each

100 injectors

2700 :P

But that was just the 550s. I buy the 60lb in bulk as well when I can, but the prices on those skyrocketed. It's easier for me to just provide them when tuning. Otherwise I end up with RC injectors, or drilled 32lb, or whatever else people buy.

Remember I'm British! ;)

OK, worked on this last night and a little today. KRKTE modified for TT 225 injectors, upped boost, upped redline, removed speed limiter, SAI delete, as well as a few other things. Pretty much did all I could with the most recent .XDF from BlkSerialKilla (finding maps just isn't my thing). Checksums fixed and rechecked...

Praise or criticism, lets hear it.

Logs plz.

Agree. Only logging will tell you if you got it right!

I'm not going to be able to log for at least a few days to a week, sadly I lost a family member today.

In the meantime if you guys can find some more maps and update the XDF, I can work on those maps in my free time, update the file and do a serious logging session once I'm able .

Sorry for your loss. Wish you well.

Took a look at your .bin file, looks like LDRXN is stock? You're going to want to up the maximum requested load. Also, LAMFA is stock. What were the changes you made?

Yep, don't know why the original table was in there... long day.

Here's an updated file with corrected checksums. I may have to revisit it and tweak it, might be a bit too sloppy and aggressive

so uh, logs?

Not tonight, dear. I have a headache.

How did you make out with the tune Edgy?

I'm curious too, perhaps Leroy can ask injectors for Christmas and log the sh*t out of this topic   ;D

;D

The stage 2 tune is dead :( so i will revive it. I took the fall and bought some 630cc injectors. Yah they are but I'm also doing an e85 conversion which I'm planning on documenting well. Has anybody else just starting out on injectors tuning?

I had purchased some 550CC EV14 Bosch injectors and made an attempt to get them running close 100% correct (still not even 80% right at all now) but have stopped pushing the envelope of the rest of tuning since I figured out I have noticeable hardware issues with my stock turbo. Chasing my tail trying to find boost leaks and troubleshooting other suspect hardware bits only to realize my turbo may be in need of replacement. I'll probably resume after purchasing a F21 frankenturbo some time. Willing to learn and help as I see these threads develop  :)

This is prolly a dumb question, but one I need to ask.

If one has already installed an FMIC, upgraded turbo (K04 Hybrid from G-Pop), rods, TIP, exhaust, high-flow cat, and has 386cc injectors ready to go would it be better to start from scratch by installing the new injectors, or sticking with the stock injectors then migrating over?

I think conventional wisdom says dial in fueling first, which in your case means drop in the new injectors and get them adjusted for fuel trims etc.

There isn't any point  trying to run an upgraded turbo/higher boost without more fuel. In fact it's a quick way to burn up your exhaust valves or turbo fins....our 1.8t engines don't have much fuel to go around even with stock turbo.

This is exactly what I thought, but wanted to clear with those in the know. Thanks!

This isn't gospel, just my opinion based on reading here. Does your car have wideband o2 sensor?

Yessir. I have a BQ box that I just ported over to CH, and am in the process of converting KRKTE values for the larger injectors. I'll be logging once I install them and will be sharing here to see if I'm going about everything correctly.

CH eh? I'll be following this, once I get some injectors I can be a guinea pig too.

can someone start posting logs and info on tuning for injectors? I'm a little bit scared to try tuning injectors after reading all day about this.

What injectors are you using?

I'm running 630 Bosch, and used the 550 values for TVUB, sorted KRKTE and my trims are within 3% just now.  Gonna go lower, but I've got exams this week, so it's a no go.

About to install 630cc ev 14

Alright, I took the plunge and installed my injectors, setting the KRKTE to my calculations and TVUB to the specs that were provided with them. It looks like I'm running a little off on both the stft (~-3) and on the partial adaption (`-.99), which I can deal with right now.
I think my fueling looks great, until I hit about 4500rpm where afr desired really begins to drop and the idc begins to ramp up. Would this be a result of bts kicking in?

I have also raised ldrxn and ldrxnzk a little, because I just couldn't resist after seeing good fueling in a previous log. Even with the very minor changes it's a really different car now.

My plan is to get the fueling completely dialed by aiming for a flat afr, trims close to zero, decreased idc, then moving on.

Attached is the log from today, the changes are to KRKTE, TVUB, KVB, LAMFA, LDRXN, and LDRXNZK.
What would you folks like to see next?

Looks like BTS to me. The AFR drops off as the IAT climbs through 25.5*c. Holding the boost pressure into the higher rpm range is going to get pretty hot. What was the ambient temp during this log? Does anyone know if BTS is triggered by ambient temperature vs. IAT as well as calculated EGT? 25*c is not all that warm in the summer.

Three77, have you altered the BTS temp threshold at all? The AFR drops at 935* calc EGT What fuel is this? Might need a richer mixture target to keep temps down.

Question: Will hot days cause an agressive tune to run BTS fueling all day long? I know there are some that use BTS for enrichment, it might be necessary to go this route if a consistant fuel profile is priority. An improved intercooler setup would help too i'm sure.

bts is kind of what I was thinking as well, it really flattens out after 4500. I haven't touched any values for bts, and if I remember correctly it is set to trigger somewhere in the 800s, I'll check later this morning. 11-12 psi at redline shouldn't be too much to ask of the k04 hybrid, but you never know.

Ambient temp was in the high 60s/low 70s, fahrenheit. As for intercooling, I'm running an abd fmic, so that shouldn't  be a choke point either. 91 octane is pretty much the best fuel out here, unless you don't mind driving all across town for 93, so you may be right about having to run a bit richer.
I'll raise bts first, what do you suggest as a target point, 950, 1000?

Learning of your ambient temp, I'd say the IAT isn't a factor. I checked the FR and it looks like the only reasons to activate BTS are calculated EGT exceeding the threshold and further enrichment thereafter if there is poor calculated ignition timing efficiency.

Nyet suggested 11.5-11.8 target AFR with 91octane over in the stg1 thread. I'd go there first and see where (if at all) BTS kicks in. Do you have the compressor efficiency map for your turbo? Which turbo is this specifically, or custom perhaps?

Does anyone have a suggestion for an absolute maximum calculated EGT ceiling for 1.8t? We don't want to find out by trial and error......I've read 950*c is ok for a peak, but not sustained number, 900 would be safer?


This is from the stage 1 project. DDillenger, did you mean that the calculated temp tends to be higher than the actual temp? I guess the only real way to know is with pyrometer.

My last log for the stage 1 file shows peak at 950*c. I've been running this latest file for almost 3 weeks and pushing my car pretty hard on the daily. So far no issues, but I'm never at the redline for more than a fraction of a second before shifting. If this was for extended high-demand application (race) I would likely bring BTS back into the picture. IIRC I set the threshold for something reckless like 1100*c  :o Here's the chart for EGT from my last log.

I'll try to answer this for him.  From all the different 1.8t's I've tuned (golf, jetta, passat, a4) these a4's seem to have higher calculated EGTs than the rest.

Use TABGBTS as the threshold for when BTS kicks in, and use FBSTABM as the multiplier for the value out of KLFBTS (maybe not directly) over the current calculated EGT temps.  So, set your FBSTABM axis something like 900, 1000, 1050, 1100 and the values to .9, 1, 1.05, 1.1.  This will make bts fuel more as temps increase.

I'm not totally sure about this, but I feel like the TABGBTS map was wrong in the definition.  I swear when leroy was doing his stage 1, bts was kicking in even when the threshold was not yet met.  Maybe I am understanding TABGBTS wrong, but I thought no BTS fueling occurs until this limit has been reached.  That's not what we were seeing in his logs, which leads me to believe that the map may be incorrectly defined in our map pack.

I'll aim for somewhere between .82 and .78, then log to see what that does before moving on to anything else. I'm running a gpop k04 hybrid that pushes around 25/lb min, iirc, which reminds me to contact them for a map.

My TABGBTS is set at 839.99*c, and FBSTABGM settings are as follows
which happens to coincide with the drop in afr according to the log. I think that SB_GLI is on the right track, but I'll wait to see what the lamfa changes do.

Thanks for the help guys, I truly appreciate it.

Here's tonight's log.
I added more fuel via lamfa but it looks like I could bring some more in a little earlier to get into the range that nyet likes for us crappy-fuel-laden folks, and I prolly don't need to request more fuel past 5k. I also copied the LDRXN and LDRXNZK values from the tt240 CA box, and will stick with them until I get fueling dialed.

The 4500 rpm dropoff is at the same place, so while I think that I can get lower afrs on the next run via lamfa, I'm pretty certain that I will need to visit bts in one way or another. It'll be nice to get my idc back in line as well.

Your turbo takes longer to spool than the K03, I think you're going too rich too soon. From what I've been told you want peak enrichment at peak load:


There likely isn't anything to gain by "stepping" the requested AFR down after 5k. I would just go to the final mixture when you expect peak load.

As for BTS, looks like you could bump the threshold up a little and change the factors like SB said. The reason for pushing BTS out on the stage 1 project was primarily to keep IDC from spiking to over 100%. With your injectors,  even with current BTS configuration you're only seeing 90% IDC. Try some things out, see what works on your setup. 8)

For LAMFA I think you're looking for something like this:

Your log is all messed up due to opening it with another editor and saving it with that editor.  When you post up log files, try to post the file that was created directly by ME7Logger.  Don't open it up in something else and try to save it, otherwise it hoses the formatting and causes headaches for those that are trying to look at it.  I can't run this log though VisualME7Logger due to the formatting changes that were made.

Based on your EGT temps and current state of BTS enrichment, I would update FBSTABGM to a value under 1 at 950c.  Add a larger value after that for safety, and if you plan on using LAMFA for fueling otherwise, I would set the first column to 0.


Of course, you will want to review the values in KFLBTS to make sure they are not set too rich in the higher load/rpm ranges.  Set the values in this table to what you want to see and then use FBSTABGM to enrich even more once the temps get too high.  Or, you could ignore KFLBTS all together and just modify FBSTABGM to get what you need.  There's a couple of ways to skin this cat.

Your egts will come down a bit when you advance your ignition timing a bit more.  you have no CFs, so you have room to advance the timing a bit.

Don't forget the DDLBTS!

from the S4WIKI

KFLBTS_0_A - requested lambda for component protection when calculated EGT is above TABGBTS, scaled by FBSTABGM. Note that lambts also modified by [KF]DLBTS and KFFDLBTS: lambts = KFLBTS + ([KF]DLBTS * KFFDLBTS). Therefore, setting KFLBTS to 1 where you don't need it won't disable bts, you also have to set KFFDLBTS = 0 to disable bts completely.[20] Note that Mbox has DLBTS (2D), not KFDLBTS (3D).[21]

TABGBTS - Threshold for KFLBTS. Unless calculated EGTs are above this threshold, KFLBTS is ignored. You may have to lower TABGBTS if you have a scaled MAF, since calculated EGTs will be artificially low.

FBSTABGM (0x150C2) - KFLBTS multiplier. Make sure you change the axis properly to represent your lowered TABGBTS. Again, not necessary if you have a properly scaled MAF.

You're so right, I gleaned that from your stg1 thread after I posted up my log. I'm going to start from scratch and see what I can come up with. I'll have to look at my load graphs, but I'm thinking that ramping it up between 3000 - 5000 would work well.



Sorry about that, I took two logs and forgot to rename the second run so I just cut the data out and saved it not knowing that it would hose things up.


It appears that working with FBSTABGM is the simplest way of working with this, for now, and I'll apply your suggestions to the next revision (thanks, btw!). However, is this the correct way of going about it, or is there so much variability that there is no "correct" way? I like to learn how to do things right the first time.

I'll get after that once there is a consensus that my fueling is good.  ;)


I'll have to read through this about 20 times to make sure that I totally understand it.

I have a question regarding the rl axis of KFLBTS and KFFDLBTS. Does this need to be changed when you are increasing load? I ask this because my KFLBTS and KFFDLBTS rl axis stop at 150, and the TT CA file I'm looking at goes up to 191.

Knowing that this map isn't activated until I reach my TABGBTS threshold of 839 it may be a moot point, but one that I was interesting in knowing.

Thanks!

Wow! spent all morning reading and rereading the stage 1 and stage 2 threads.  Really shed some light (well... a lot of light!) on tuning software for me.  Kinda took all the hocus pocus out of tuning.  Still not a 100% on everything but, way.... further along than 8 am this morning. These threads are a must read!  If I can get my car running properly today, new parts are came in! I will try to contribute sometime in the future.  Really appreciate the step by step and the logs being reviewed by the senior members.  Great work! thanks for the good read and all the Info!  Cheers

What tune are you running this on? I have an 064 fitted ( have done for a good while) but haven't gotten around to tuning it as yet due to mechanical issues. I have currently pegged the N75 DC at 25% to allow some boost etc

I'm running it on my own tune.  630cc injectors, 3" MAF, 064.  Controlling boost with purely N75 values (this is frowned upon), but gives me a controllable 26psi.

What do you mean by "N75 values"? Why would it be "frowned upon"?

Yesterday there were alot more replys in here. what happened to the thread?

What adam means is the uk way of tuning which means: using KFLDRAPP all day long :)

It's a bad way of tuning I know, but using KFLDRAPP to tune for duty cycle is faster.  Going to do more logging and prepare a 5120 hacked file, but it'll come later, rather than sooner.

Does anybody have a kp or ols of this BIN. Need it to compare and find KLDLUL in my file.

Faster, meaning, less work, you mean.

I believe I have located KLDLUL in 518AK 003 bin based on the location in the 518AK 004 bin (27E8B) shared by ddillenger awhile back.

KLDLUL
Map 27F47
Axis 27F3F

Thanx mate

Would you share your KP??

No problem.

I wouldn't mind sharing at all but only have the demo version of winols which I use to compare to other bins when searching.  PM what you are looking for (don't want to clutter this thread) and I will post what I have or give you links to what I have posted already.   

I need  KLDLUL  in 2D. Can you post a dump, That would be perfect.

Attached is KLDLUL in 2D (highlight bright blue), not sure what you mean by dump.

I know KFDLUL is specific for the 518AK bin not sure which others use it but you may want to look at KFDLULS 8x8. 

There is no LULS in my Passat 2003 DH box. Searched for it for days :).
This is exactly what i needed.
Thanx mate.
OPs, plz separate this from this thread.

Hi guys,

Did anyone try to disable TM control at all in this kind of BIN AK/AT?

I know in order to disable TM control the following tables KZMIZUOF, KFMIZUFIL, KFMIZUNS and several *_UM tables should be modified
zeroed/filled by FF. But unfortunately I've managed to find only KZMIZUOF, KFMIZUFIL tables in AK/AT BIN file. The tables were
modied KZMIZUOF=00 and KFMIZUFIL=FF. However I still have EPC light on and P1335 error. Although the same way
(with KZMIZUOF and KFMIZUFIL tables) is working for my friend's HP BIN file.

Let's start discussing about other tables wich also should be modified and its addresses in the AT/AK BIN file.
 

I have never disabled this ever. In any file I have ever done. I don't understand everyone wanting to.

Hi Daz,

To be honest I just don't want to waste my time to fine tune IRL/IOP.

Daz is about to kill you when he reads this message monday!

Waste your time? It literally, and I mean that, takes 5 minutes start to finish. You spent more time creating this post.

How do you do it DD?

I tried the Excel in its early stages (not sure if it's changed), and it gave me a crap idle and part throttle.  Left the stock table and just upped the last row in IRL and IOP.

Obviously there's a better way by interpolating between the results, but is it really necessary?

Any new developments?

I just bought a B6 with 386cc injectors and exhaust. I'm waiting on a new ECU from Ebay to replace the APR'd unit it came with. I'll be adding to this project as soon as I get it...

My general approach is to leave everything but the last one or two rows stock, and copy the results of the excel program for those one or two rows (and, of course, scaling the axis data if needed)

Hi guys,

Did anyone try to disable TM control at all in this kind of BIN AK/AT?

I know in order to disable TM control the following tables KZMIZUOF, KFMIZUFIL, KFMIZUNS and several *_UM tables should be modified
zeroed/filled by FF. But unfortunately I've managed to find only KZMIZUOF, KFMIZUFIL tables in AK/AT BIN file. The tables were
modied KZMIZUOF=00 and KFMIZUFIL=FF. However I still have EPC light on and P1335 error. Although the same way
(with KZMIZUOF and KFMIZUFIL tables) is working for my friend's HP BIN file.

Let's start discussing about other tables wich also should be modified and its addresses in the AT/AK BIN file.

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There is never a good reason to disable torque monitoring

Coming to a thread near you... EV14 injectors installed and dialed in, FMIC arrived in the mail and cat is about to be gutted. I plan on trying to run about 17 psi on my k03s when I finish the newest mods. I have made a lot of changes, but I would say the main changes regarding boost/load so far would be LDRXN, KFLDHBN, KFMIRL, KFMIOP, KFZW and my AFR is following requested which I have set at about 12 for now. Any suggestions on whether I should do anything with KFLDIMX? Any other changesI should make other than ones listed above? It seems like as far as software goes, a stage 2 tune is just like a stage 1 with slightly higher values to the same parameters.

After reading a bit more I've found a few more maps that will probably need some adjustments in order to increase boost pressure to where we want it. KFLDIMX, KFLDRL, KFDLULS or KLDLUL, and possibly KFMLDMX. I'm not 100% sure where I should start making adjustments, but I think adjusting KLDLULS would be a good candidate. I included a picture of the map below... Does anyone know if this is correctly defined and/or where I might start adjusting. What data are we getting for the y axis?

Why? What makes you think this is a good thing to change?

Just going by what I have read from other threads. Doesn't it limit boost pressure to about 14.7psi in stock form? KFDLULS I beleive was falsely defined in the 1.8t stage 1 thread and actually doesn't exist in my bin. I've heard from some of Daz posts regarding my bin that it exists in the form of KLDLUL.


ddillenger once said...

How would it accomplish that? Is there a document that describes the function of KFDLULS? The FR? The s4wiki tuning page?

From the s4 wiki: KFDLULS - Delta pressure for overboost protection

And according to the FR, what does it do?

More or less: if rl_w>SDLDRL and lde > KFDLULS for longer than DLUL, LDO max error is set.

Thanks for the response's, nyet. I guess it serves the purpose but in a different way than I was thinking. I'll have to study the FR a whole lot more before I really understand all this. I guess I'm going to read more about boost PID and making small changes and see if I can note any positives/negatives from logs for now. I'll probably look into KFLDIMX and KFLDRL at this point.

After reading about KFLDIMX it is actually very simple and I believe I have modified it correctly. I removed the 300 and 500 mbar rows and moved everything down, thus creating space for 1200 and 1350 mbar rows. I probably have a little fine tuning to do with the duty cycle in those rows but I think it should be close. On another note, I'm having a hard time with KFLDRL. I've read all the info I can find on it and I still don't fully understand how it works. I know it's a linearization of boost pressure, but I don't understand everything about it's axis and how they work (X: rpm, Y: hpa 0-95, Z: %charge).

No just moving imx around randomly isn't "correct".

ldr does not "linearize boost pressure", it is to make the wg response linear with respect to dc changes.

It seems my wgdc matches my new IMX values at these levels (1200mbar and 1350mbar) pretty well. Alternate route to creating higher values in IMX? Again, just going off of the seemingly best information I read.

Hi guys, I know this thread seems dead and buried but after reading over the Stage 1 1.8t project lead by leroy about 5 times I felt a stage 2 needed to happen!

I've got a reasonable amount of understanding through searching this forum and constantly reading the s4 wiki., I'm in a position to do regular logs as I now have everything set up and working...finally! A spare ECU if things go wrong etc.

As alot of people disagree on what actually pertains Stage 2 on the 1.8t, I'll tell you what I'm running:

Seat Leon Cupra mk1
AUQ 1.8t
3" downpipe
Decat
Pipercross panel filter
N249 and SAI delete
Boostgauge  :D
97RON fuel.

If this does not qualify I may be able to buy injectors/turbo pipe if absolutely needed as I'm eager to learn and contribute to this forum as did the stage 1 thread helped me and so many others.

Let me know guys and we can get this thing going!

Hi guys,
regarding stage 2 tuning...Brief question, after turbo (k04) change I want to hold 1.1 bar boost until 6000rpm. Is it necessary to modify timing or can I leave it stock as it was designed for basic k03 tune? Thank you.

That depens on many many things( fuel, intake air, base map...)

Okay.. I will be running basically stock tune.. Only  injectors (krkte, tvub), boost (kfldhbn, ldrxn), and bit of lamfa will be changed according to stage 1 topic.

Will I be safe to put 1bar boost at 6000rpm at stock timing? I assume yes, but I will ask for better feeling  ;D

depends on IAT and octane, but stock timing at high load is pretty low and can result in high egts.

Okay, so I could advance timing more after  let's say 4500 RPM and high load..Fire the spark 1 or 2 degrees sooner to cool exhaust gasses am I right?

And of course keep IAT as low as possible to prevent knocking and ignition retard.

I'd start with stock first, and see where you end up with the IATs you normally see and the gas you normally run.

Finally I end up with copying BEX - KFZW and KFZW2 values and more aggressive timing solved all problems..Timing was advanced average 5 degrees on higher loads . Boost is much better, EGT is 100'C lower and the car feels much more agile even with a stock boost.. Stock timing on AWT/BFB is pretty much piece of slow crap.  Logs are fine, no retardation from ECU.

I just caught up with this thread and would like to learn from this series of contributions:

I'm running an Audi A4 B6 1.8T Quattro AVJ - Bosch Siemens ME 7.5 ECU 8E906018B 0261206868 0004

EPROM 29F800

Decat downpipe
KO3s - hybridised with KO4 compressor wheel and cut back exducer veins - 360 journal bearing - uprated seals
Ported head exhaust ports - std intake ports
Forged crank, rods, mahle pistons with new Hastings rings, forged BAM cams and a rebuilt and sealed head.
Seat Leon Cupra R headgasket
Red R8 coil packs
Cone intake filter with new N75 valve
Standard injectors
EGR delete, Sai delete & N249 delete - running on resistors
Boost gauge
S4 B5 brake kit from rebuilt calipers with new pads

I get a DTC code for the intake air temp sensor low reading - wiring checked, but no fault - maybe ecu
Get a code for sensor 1 bank 1 heater circuit and lambda on pre cat sensor.
secondary post cat sensor is gapped with an adapter to stop it throwing codes.


File store: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zs8hvddjfs2yxrc/AAA_F7yll-HUq3KpQNzgKfdea?dl=0

Video of setup: https://youtu.be/JSy4b-v9kVo

I would appreciate some tuning help as I can use the software to add new data from thread posts and such, but am limited to adding antilag, launch deletes etc....

Any help appreciated.

My Project dropbox is shared above.

Aidan.

If I were you I would start with basic stage1 tuning , learn how log with me7logger, get rid all the error codes in ECU, play with boost PID and make turbo follow your boost request properly in all the rev range.. After that you can proceed with timing and add more boost to make some serious power.. Than you will be pretty sure what you are doing and why.  Everything  what is needed for good tune is written on this forum.