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savages4
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« on: December 07, 2011, 01:04:35 PM »
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I used an anti-lag map and compared differences, made all relevent changes, my car runs perfect but no anti-lag, and no 4000 rpm hold? I'm flooring it and everything so I know thats not the problem. Anyone think they could take a look?
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-SlowSilverTIPJason-
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2011, 06:03:36 PM »
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You have VNMX at 20km/h and NMAX at 7000 rpm.
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savages4
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2011, 06:23:12 PM »
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So what should those be set at 3 and 4000? Are you sure? Does it matter than my clutch switch is jumped because it went bad?
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Jason
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Breaks everything!
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2011, 07:10:10 PM »
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Uh, the clutch switch is what enables the antilag.
You will have to buy a new clutch switch to make it work.
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-SlowSilverTIPJason-
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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2011, 07:44:37 PM »
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So what should those be set at 3 and 4000? Are you sure? Does it matter than my clutch switch is jumped because it went bad?
I lol'd. Yes, like Jason said above you need the clutch input if using a modded .bin with the additional anti-lag function. If implementing launch control the "old" way I think it would still work if vehicle speed was below VNMX. |
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savages4
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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2011, 07:55:19 PM »
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Ah lol, yeah I was thinking i'd be cool with the antilag speed cut off... But maybe I should not play around with that until I get the switch fixed.
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savages4
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« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2011, 11:43:39 PM »
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Still not convinced, how is nmax (maximum engine speed) the right value? Woudln't setting that at 4,000 rpm make my rev limiter always 4,000 rpm regardless of vehicle speed?
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 12:13:02 AM by savages4 »
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masterj
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2011, 03:09:38 AM »
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Still not convinced, how is nmax (maximum engine speed) the right value? Woudln't setting that at 4,000 rpm make my rev limiter always 4,000 rpm regardless of vehicle speed?
you're setting two limiters. first one is nmax - which becomes your start limit and then you set nmaxog which becomes your main limiter. |
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savages4
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« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2011, 10:46:42 AM »
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So i'm guessing the problem with no clutch switch would be that it won't turn off until 2 km/hr which could be bad for the car right?
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julex
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« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2011, 11:16:14 AM »
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Your clutch switch is shot which means it doesn't give ECU a signal that clutch is engaged... which is precarious b/c how else are you starting the car then since clutch needs to be pressed for that?
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savages4
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« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2011, 12:25:35 PM »
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LOL if you read up I said it's jumped, my bad, yeah the switch went out and the previous owner just jumped it. It's like one of those 4x4 wrangler rock climbers that use the starter to get out of bad situations.
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julex
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« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2011, 01:47:27 PM »
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Ah... ok.
The kicker though is that clutch switch is two stage.
First stage, probably at 1/4 or so in, when triggered sends signal to ECU to indicate "clutch pressed" condition. When this is engaged, ECU modifies its behavior in anticipation of increased torque demand due to imminent release of clutch by driver. This is most noticeable when idling. Pressing clutch in and activating 1st stage causes ECU to open throttle a bit, retard timing and increase torque reserve to prevent stalling of car when clutch kicks in as driver releases the clutch pedal. This is also what anti-lag and launch control look for.
Second stage about 3/4 in is what enables starter.
I have a feeling that previous owner just jumped 2nd stage and never did 1st stage since if you had it jumped, you'd be anti-lagging and launch controlling all the time.
You probably also don't have the idle torque reserve increase which helps with starting the car from a stop.
Get the switch fixed, it has its uses.
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savages4
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« Reply #12 on: December 08, 2011, 04:46:56 PM »
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Yeah too bad it's so pricey for a damn switch.
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