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Author Topic: P0234 Overboost Condition Diagnosis  (Read 23160 times)
TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #30 on: December 28, 2015, 05:35:48 AM »

Those wastegate cracks shouldnt keep your turbo from making boost unless the wastegate isnt closing at all. Our TT k03 had these cracks (well I even guess all turbo's that have over 200.000km) and happily spooled to 22psi. Would blow itself into bits without wastegate control. Have you done a pressure test on the inlet side? And hows the compressor doing, is it in good shape?
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fR3ZNO
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« Reply #31 on: December 28, 2015, 11:13:02 AM »

Those wastegate cracks shouldnt keep your turbo from making boost unless the wastegate isnt closing at all. Our TT k03 had these cracks (well I even guess all turbo's that have over 200.000km) and happily spooled to 22psi. Would blow itself into bits without wastegate control. Have you done a pressure test on the inlet side? And hows the compressor doing, is it in good shape?

I did notice that the disc did not close very firmly against wastegate.

How would I go about pressure testing the inlet side?
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #32 on: December 29, 2015, 05:03:29 AM »

Take off the first silicone connector that is fitted to the compressor outlet of your turbo. Plug it with a 2" O.D. cap with a connector for pressurized air (I have made a very simple version with just a car tire-valve). Take off your oil filler cap and apply pressurized air to the tire valve (or connector) untill you reach your boost pressure (I would want to see at least 20psi), then go and listen for air leaks around the engine. You can also have this done at a garage, where they will usually include smoke into the system so leaks get visible. If your system can hold 20psi with only gargling from the valve cover, your turbo is the problem. If not, repair and test again.
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fR3ZNO
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« Reply #33 on: December 29, 2015, 10:04:01 AM »

Okay, so I feel dumb for not trying this earlier. I took the air nozzle from my air compressor, adjusted the regulator to about 6psi and connected it to the wastegate port with some vacuum line.

On the old turbo, the wastegate would not open under 6psi and I could hear and feel air rushing past the diaphragm. It wouldn't open until I adjusted the regulator to 20 psi.

However, on the new turbo, it opened right up at 6psi and there were no air leaks.

So now I feel pretty confident I found my problem.
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TijnCU
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flying brick


« Reply #34 on: December 30, 2015, 05:41:17 AM »

Good news, you could not have replaced the actuator without removing the turbo anyway  Grin
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fR3ZNO
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« Reply #35 on: December 30, 2015, 11:10:20 AM »

Ugh. Just finished up swapping the turbo and one of the coolant lines are leaking. The car doesn't go into limp mod anymore at least. I think it might be the coolant feed line. Used new copper washers and made sure it was torqued to spec. I guess that wasn't enough. It's also a fairly large leak, took it for a quick spin and the coolant tank is only half full now.

I'm waiting for the car to cool down a bit and I'll get under it and see where it's coming from.
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dream3R
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« Reply #36 on: December 30, 2015, 08:25:47 PM »

I was just going to say check the actuator arms you can generally attach a hand pump and observe / adjust normally.

Also check Id of hoses and their wear.

Gets got though after a few runs so mark ur original spot!

There will be threads all over on this on Google (wg Check)
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How to work out values from an A2L Smiley

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5525.msg52371#msg52371


Starting Rev's http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=5397.msg51169#msg51169

noobs read this before asking http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9014.0title=


ORGORIGINAL 05 5120 creator for Volvo
ORIGINAL Datalogger (Freeware) Author
ORGINAL finder of the 'extra' torque' limits
I don't have ME7.01 A2L I just use ID
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