NefMoto > General > General Discussion > NOTORIOUS VR's M-box Stage 2++ and ALL VARIATIONS. NO NEW THREADS ON THIS.
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Author Topic: NOTORIOUS VR's M-box Stage 2++ and ALL VARIATIONS. NO NEW THREADS ON THIS.  (Read 263628 times)
amd is the best
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« Reply #45 on: January 31, 2012, 01:55:13 PM »
Quote from: NOTORIOUS VR on January 29, 2012, 04:30:13 PM
I'll have to see about maybe loosening up the duty cycle table a bit around ramp up in the next few days when I get a chance.

Which table specifically are you referring to?
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #46 on: February 05, 2012, 10:04:21 PM »
Quote from: amd is the best on January 31, 2012, 01:55:13 PM
Which table specifically are you referring to?

I actually changed my mind.. I would try to lower the D-term of the PID control first around 3k... see how that goes...
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SCHNELL ENGINEERING BLOG ·  STANDALONE ECUS · TUNING · DYNO · WIRING · PARTS · VEMS
Google Talk: NOTORIOUS.VR
n00bs start here: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
marcellus
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Thank you so much for posting this tune!  I spent the day comparing the tune I got to yours and it was really comprehensive as to why my car was acting a nut.  The tune I got was garbage, and I dont know how he got anything to run with that file.  I cant believe I paid for that mess. 

So, for a large single turbo setup limiting boost to WG spring (13psi)....Mafless because I still havent finished up my intake...your tune has me smilling ear to ear. 

I just need to get the readiness to pass for o2 sensor so I cando emmisions and register.
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Snow Trooper
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I haven't had a chance to work on a tune for marcellus but if its running okay on his file just do the hack I showed you and have yout wg duty cycle max around 35% in areas that it was 95 and the turbo should ne spooled.  That should be 20 ish psi with a 13lb spring.  Every.setup varies so go easy
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Glad people are enjoying the tune Smiley
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SCHNELL ENGINEERING BLOG ·  STANDALONE ECUS · TUNING · DYNO · WIRING · PARTS · VEMS
Google Talk: NOTORIOUS.VR
n00bs start here: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
marcellus
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Quote from: Snow Trooper on March 01, 2012, 08:10:13 PM
I haven't had a chance to work on a tune for marcellus but if its running okay on his file just do the hack I showed you and have yout wg duty cycle max around 35% in areas that it was 95 and the turbo should ne spooled.  That should be 20 ish psi with a 13lb spring.  Every.setup varies so go easy

I Kind of cobbled my way through it.  It runs well enough, the idle is a little rough.  I just wanted to try a file that was more towards my cars setup without swapping in the 630cc injectors and introduce another variable I will have to troubleshoot.  This tune served its purpose for me, showing me that my setup wasnt causing the big driveability issue. 

Going from this tune to my full setup, I wouldnt even know where to start.  I only got this far by painstakingly comparing 4 files, and a lot of reading on the forum/wiki. 

I got the Hack you said all done in this file.  My LC-1 is being retarded with the 8 flash error.  I got it to work for a few seconds, but that was it.  I have yet to get the readiness for the 02 to pass yet though.  I think I have done everything I have read on the forum still NADA for that last one.  Heres my hacked file.
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corradovolksb
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I started with the N.VR stage 2++ file and tweeked it to work for my 2000 S4 in Arizona with 91oct. The file has the folowing changes

Mbox
bosch maf
91oct timing
rev limit is 7200
boost spikes at 21psi and tapers to 16psi at redline
no cats and rear o2's
no egts
antilag is set at 4000rpm
no lift shift is set to 5500rpm
overboost protection kfdluls set to 1275 in all blocks
checksums are ok.

my mods are ssac turbo back with no cats, K&N intake and EVOMS DV's. My car pulls really hard and is a blast to drive. big thanks to N.VR for making the orginal file. here are a few vids of my car with the no lift shift and antilag in action. i will be dynoing it soon and will post my results. just a reminder you will be using this file at your own risk. im not resposable for any car failures you might have.
enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6BZ7UWaVpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rket-MkubQI&feature=related


Dyno runs 338 TQ and 274 HP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRIlemCqv6c&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H3ls76x64A&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Edit:  I posted an updated file on page 3 that has fuel corrections so disregared the file in this first post thx.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2012, 11:00:48 AM by corradovolksb » Logged
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« Reply #52 on: March 18, 2012, 03:28:43 PM »
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
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SCHNELL ENGINEERING BLOG ·  STANDALONE ECUS · TUNING · DYNO · WIRING · PARTS · VEMS
Google Talk: NOTORIOUS.VR
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stabilo87
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« Reply #53 on: March 20, 2012, 09:26:57 AM »
Your video's made me smile Grin she sounds badass.
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corradovolksb
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« Reply #54 on: March 20, 2012, 09:35:10 AM »
thank you very much. I love how it sounds at WOT it makes peoples heads turn when I fly bye them haha....
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« Reply #55 on: March 20, 2012, 06:53:23 PM »
cool videos!
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rotor_powerd
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« Reply #56 on: March 21, 2012, 06:08:32 PM »
What conditions have to be met for it to engage? I flashed it to my car, but couldn't get the anti-lag or no lift shift to work.
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corradovolksb
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« Reply #57 on: March 21, 2012, 10:29:32 PM »
Quote from: rotor_powerd on March 21, 2012, 06:08:32 PM
What conditions have to be met for it to engage? I flashed it to my car, but couldn't get the anti-lag or no lift shift to work.

For antilag the clutch pedal must be pressed and the the gas pedal held at WOT or to the floor. For no lift shift gas pedal must be pressed more than 90% so I keep it to the floor and you have to be over 5500rpm and the clutch pedal pressed. Make sure that both of your clutch pedal positions of your clutch switche are working because if the 1st part of the switch is not working ALS and NLS will not work. A quick way to check the switch is to press the clutch with the engine at idle and see if your rpms change a little and your exhaust note also changes. If you don't notice a change than your switch is bad.
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2000 Nogaro blue S4 Stage 2. VAG for life.
wannabeS4
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« Reply #58 on: March 22, 2012, 12:04:34 AM »
Can you post some logs of this file please?
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rotor_powerd
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« Reply #59 on: March 22, 2012, 06:55:27 AM »
Quote from: corradovolksb on March 21, 2012, 10:29:32 PM
For antilag the clutch pedal must be pressed and the the gas pedal held at WOT or to the floor. For no lift shift gas pedal must be pressed more than 90% so I keep it to the floor and you have to be over 5500rpm and the clutch pedal pressed. Make sure that both of your clutch pedal positions of your clutch switche are working because if the 1st part of the switch is not working ALS and NLS will not work. A quick way to check the switch is to press the clutch with the engine at idle and see if your rpms change a little and your exhaust note also changes. If you don't notice a change than your switch is bad.

I figured it was something with the switch - thanks.
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