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Author Topic: Just finishing up my custom bench/bootmode harness but missed one small thing...  (Read 7485 times)
royce5950
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Ok, So I was just re-reading the DIY guide written by @k0mpresd one last time before finally finishing up the harness and I realized I forgot something... I added an additional 12v power wire and an additional ground wire but I accidentally left out the second ground wire used to initiate boot mode... Here is my particular situation as well as my solution. I wrapped up everything really good, wrapping up each wire individually followed by wrapping all of the wires together as one and lastly I sleeved the entire bundle of wires with power supply sleeve so everything looks clean  Cheesy

Anyways for reference here is the pinout for the ECU (I'm me7.5 btw so I made sure to add 21)



I noticed in the DIY that @k0mpresd only used one of the grounds in his harness (pin1) and I double checked to make sure and found two individuals who backed him up saying that only one is needed... So my harness also only utilizes pin1. Now I'm hoping that its possible to use the wire on pin2 with a 1kohm resistor soldered onto it as the ground that will make contact with pin 24 on the eeprom? rather than completely dismantling my harness?

I hope that this will work but of course, I feel its always best to reach out to you guys for advice and/or opinions regarding situations like this... The ol' saying applies here "better safe than sorry"  Smiley

Thanks in advance for the help! I greatly appreciate it!
« Last Edit: September 24, 2016, 09:42:52 AM by roycerollz503 » Logged

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royce5950
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... Or if that isn't possible could I just tap into the wire further towards the end? so that I can still avoid fully dismantling the harness?

But what I'd actually rather do IF my first idea isn't an option, is to remove pin1 from the harness, carefully uncrimp the connector pin and tap my 2nd ground directly into the connector for pin1. So 2 wires would be crimped in connector pin #1. The original ground wire and the new wire for ground would basically be coming OUT of connector pin #1 would be my ground wire for bootmode.

I'm pretty sure there wouldn't be any difference between these two ideas, but ideally the second idea in this post would be a little bit better since the less tapping into wires the better off you are imo. I think its always best to get a direct connection by crimping into a pin rather than splicing and tapping into wires. Less of a chance for any type of fault or error to occur, like a short, disconnect, spark/fire, melting of the insulation on the wire... etc.

But all things considered I would much rather just go with my first idea, once again IF that is at all possible and would actually work... I guess technically nothing could actually go wrong since thats technically a ground anyway right? worst case scenario it just wouldn't work and I'd know because I just wouldnt be able to get into bootmode?

So even if you guys don't know for sure, could someone atleast confirm that, in your opinion, I likely wouldn't experience any issues just giving it a try?

Thanks everyone!
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nubcake
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Easy enough to check, take a multimeter and check continuity between pins 1 and 2. Fairly sure that they are connected, meaning your boot pin idea will work nicely.
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royce5950
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Easy enough to check, take a multimeter and check continuity between pins 1 and 2. Fairly sure that they are connected, meaning your boot pin idea will work nicely.

Excellent! I will give it a go and report back with results. I'll also include a nice little shot of the finished product because without a doubt, I absolutely did not construct the most beautiful bootmode/bench cable known to man kind lol... But in a couple hours once its 100% done, I personally think it will be something yall might enjoy seeing. We all share the same passion and I always geek out on other peoples rigs/setups and creations whatever it is... So I figure I'll share my work so anyone who likes to geek out on this shit like me can get a nice little taste of me7.5 p0rn for all the p0rn you've all kindly shared with me over these past 14 months or so (since I started creeping around nef).. Shit sometimes I even get a little stiff at the sight of a well calibrated load table  Lips sealed  Roll Eyes lol

Anyways be back in a few  Cheesy
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royce5950
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Well, technically if I do happen to be saluting the troops while viewing / filling in values on a table related to load its 9/10 times pure coincidence...  Embarrassed
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Carsinc
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Pics or it did not happen.
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adam-
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Pin 121 might need to go hot too.
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royce5950
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Pics or it did not happen.

True dat
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royce5950
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Deadlink
« Last Edit: February 13, 2017, 10:19:55 AM by roycerollz5950 » Logged

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Carsinc
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HAHA I'd bet thats nicer than 98% of what most use.
I have a pretty nice one not that nice and then 2 or 3 others.
they all work and thats what counts.
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gman86
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I'd buy that
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royce5950
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...they all work and thats what counts.

Amen to that. I appreciate the compliment as well. Thank you!  Smiley

I'd buy that

Lol, Thank you I appreciate that!
Honestly if your serious, I will in fact be offering a few of my various hand crafted items to the public here soon. Some of the items I'll be offering include: custom gauge pods for locations such as: ashtray, driver side vent, center dash vent, Double din gauge pod mount that occupies the top two dins below the center vents. one of the dins requires removal of the shotty pop out cup holders in mk4 jetta and possibly golf and passat, custom speaker / subwoofer rear deck panel. Can build a custom panel that is able to house anywhere up to a combination of 2 12" subs & 2 10" subs, 4 6x9" speakers and 1 12" sub... Or even something basic like the image I posted below where I made one for two 6x9" speakers... And I'll likely add bootmode cables to the list of items as well. I can cook up like 3 or 4 for easy ordering to see how those sell at first. What do you think would be a legitimate price for a cable similar to the one I posted above? Took roughly 3 hours of straight work to complete. Mainly because I removed all of the crummy old wires and replaced them with brand new 18awg thick insulated wire. I just used 3 different colors. Red black and gray. I'm waiting to verify I did everything right. Bench powersupply is en route to my place and should arrive early next week.

Haven't decided how I'm going to market my goods yet but I'll let you know when I think of something. I have a website with SSL encryption and a stripe account too so I'll likely go that route.





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royce5950
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Originally my custom harness just had the wires twisted together but I picked up a soldering iron and some 60/40 rosin core electronics solder and taught myself how to solder last week... The night before last I completely disassembled the cable and rebuilt it. The wires are now soldered and heatshrink wrapped followed by a single layer of electric tape insulating each of the wires. As you can see I've managed to reduce the diameter of the main section of the harness. I also extended the lengths of both the negative and positive power wires. My power supply arrived on friday too so I removed the connectors from the original leads that were included with the power supply. Once I had finished with the sleeve on both the negative and positive leads on my harness I then soldered the connectors onto the negative and positive wires for the harness and finally I added another layer of black woven sleeve onto the main section of the harness and I then reassmbled the obd terminal along with the ECU connector terminal and badabing badaboom there it is!   Smiley



btw, @nubcake thanks again because I am happy to inform that the idea did work just as I had hoped and the harness / power supply are working wonderfully. I'm stoked!
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