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Author Topic: Planning to convert a non turbo 1.8 to turbo - Some questions/help needed  (Read 33706 times)
Carsinc
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https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261953&dateline=1374238934


RED ARROW is iat, on turbo cars the iat is in the intake.
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_nameless
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on na cars its in the maf
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Blazius
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on na cars its in the maf

Allright, you think I can take it out separetly , or its builtin ? Cause then I would have to use the MAF at the throttle body instead of the turbo , relocating it still works right ?
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Carsinc
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You can use a 1.8t intake sensor or 2.7 and wire it in. I've done it a bunch of times...even 2 on a blown audi r8.
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Blazius
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« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2018, 04:58:02 AM »

You can use a 1.8t intake sensor or 2.7 and wire it in. I've done it a bunch of times...even 2 on a blown audi r8.

Allright nice, so I would just have to splice into the MAF wiring ( 5 pin one) where pin 1 is the IAT sensor circuit with one pin of the IAT sensor , and the other pin to pin3 on MAF connector ( for ground ) or pin 2 12 V , how does the IAT work ?
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Blazius
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« Reply #20 on: October 27, 2018, 07:37:18 AM »

So , it has been while since I posted here... what happend since then.. Not much Cheesy I got the turbo a while ago. so i will post some pics of it ... the rest is in waiting, currently unemployed so no money to get all the parts to get it running roughly atleast. Hopefully next year spring or something.

Anyway.. its a ebay turbo t3/t4 8 psi internal wg.

https://i.imgur.com/Crz0i5Y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/96ffnhC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/spggOjY.jpg
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_nameless
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« Reply #21 on: October 29, 2018, 03:21:59 AM »

https://vimeo.com/297681693

T04e stock block e85. 24-25psi 27° max advance
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Blazius
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« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2018, 07:21:47 AM »

https://vimeo.com/297681693

T04e stock block e85. 24-25psi 27° max advance

309 whp ? what motor code ? Seems crazy, but there is a guy in the country who runs 351 HP on a stock 1.8 for 2+ years now lol
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Blazius
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« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2018, 10:09:57 PM »

So, I have been reading the responses but there is still some confusion I would like to clear up.

1st, Do I NEED a MAP on IC or not, also how does a MAF and MAP work at the same time , also I dont understand how would the wiring work.
2nd, If I need a MAP I guess I need an IAT, which is straight forward , as it takes ground and 5v , which could be spliced from the MAF ( I guess).
3rd, Wideband lambda.. as the current ECU is narrowband, from what ive read it takes a bit to convert to wideband, I know it makes tuning etc. way easier but I hope it could be run without it decently.

4th, Would this setup work and would it be tuneable atleast to get it working alright or not , as this is what I understood clearly so far Tongue.



Thanks Smiley
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nyet
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« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2018, 10:16:28 PM »

MAF is used for fueling and load based decisions, MAP is used for boost control.

If you intend to use Motronic, MAP is a misnomer because the boost sensor for Motronic is upstream of the throttle body, and does not actually read intake manifold pressure.

IMO don't take this wrong, but i do not think you have the knowledge, ability or experience to do this properly; you need to read a lot more about engine management in general, not to mention FI control etc.

The right way to do this is indeed a motor swap btw. The Motronic NA and FI ECUs are very different, even if they are both for 1.8.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2018, 10:20:02 PM by nyet » Logged

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« Reply #25 on: October 29, 2018, 10:25:35 PM »

MAF is used for fueling and load based decisions, MAP is used for boost control.

If you intend to use Motronic, MAP is a misnomer because the boost sensor is upstream of the throttle body, and does not actually read intake manifold pressure.

IMO don't take this wrong, but i do not think you have the knowledge, ability or experience to do this properly; you need to read a lot more about engine management in general, not to mention FI control etc.

Well. the project as I said is still far away,also that is why I posted it here to see what is up, but I got quite confused with the replies , as some people said get x, then others said get Y ( Don't get me wrong either I appreciate all answers.), but from what I understand everything on these ECU is load based /calculated, but essentially what am I asking is what is the simplest way to slap a turbo on this engine and make it run average( not some super perfected tune , maybe in a few years). And if I manage to fuck up with all the answers provided, then it's my fault , oh well Tongue
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nyet
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« Reply #26 on: October 29, 2018, 10:29:22 PM »

This is kind of the wrong way to go about learning about these motors, motronic in particular.

You really should be starting with a 1.8t motor and matching ECU, and learning how to tune that first.

Alternately, you can take the standalone approach and ditch motronic entirely, but the risks are much, much, much higher.

If you are indeed on a budget, you are asking for trouble.

You'd better have enough cash floating around that you can get a replacement motor, etc.

And if you had that kind of cash, you'd already have a 1.8t motor sitting around, along with the tools (and ability) to swap it :/
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
Blazius
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« Reply #27 on: October 29, 2018, 10:40:05 PM »

This is kind of the wrong way to go about learning about these motors, motronic in particular.

You really should be starting with a 1.8t motor and matching ECU, and learning how to tune that first.

Alternately, you can take the standalone approach and ditch motronic entirely, but the risks are much, much, much higher.

If you are indeed on a budget, you are asking for trouble.

You'd better have enough cash floating around that you can get a replacement motor, etc.

And if you had that kind of cash, you'd already have a 1.8t motor sitting around, along with the tools (and ability) to swap it :/

I see. :/ As for 1.8T motors , yes there are some for sale in the country, but there are issues like transport and stuff, I'm sure it is way easier to get stuff in USA, here not so much Tongue that is why sometimes we have to cheap out / go for ghetto setups , but that does not mean we/I dont want to do it properly Tongue As for mechnical experience , I got some of that but most of that is suspension / replacement parts, not swaps so that is definitly out from the plans, and if I must do it, then I'll call help for sure, but hopefully I wont need it Smiley.
As for cash,I'll definitly wont/cant start it until I dont have a stable income and stashed money , to get urgent , replacement stuff if something goes wrong. Smiley
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_nameless
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« Reply #28 on: October 30, 2018, 02:56:57 AM »

309 whp ? what motor code ? Seems crazy, but there is a guy in the country who runs 351 HP on a stock 1.8 for 2+ years now lol
423 wheel horse power and 309 wheel torque brah
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woj
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« Reply #29 on: October 30, 2018, 06:24:13 AM »

I am not sure how many folks around here actually successfully converted an N/A engine to turbo, but I did, and it lasted for 60kkm before the shell got rotten, I had to move countries, the turbo setup and control system I (proudly) built went to another and another owner - the setup still runs and feels fine (will soon be 10 years that it does). Base engine 73HP, 1.2 8V, end result 0.8/1.0bar boost on a suitably matched turbo and 120-125 HP (these engines can do waaaaay more, but unconditional reliability was the target).

Now, that was a cheap (compared to what guys do here) and straightforward Fiat engine, which I could probably now do blindfolded. The cash required was between 5k-7k Euros (estimation, I stopped counting after 5k, not brave enough) and that considering I had many things sourced second hand in good quality from trustworthy people. The development time was around 2 years for ECU / control work plus 1 year of engine work to get the first start up and car running, plus another 1 year of calibrations, fine tuning, small upgrades, etc. My experience was probably not that much higher than OP's BTW. Oh, and I read two books about the topic "Street turbocharging" and "Maximum boost", can't recall the authors, google is your friend.

So trust me, it's not about knowing where/if to place sensor X or Y, or where to splice +5V from, you have to DESIGN this if you do not want to finish your ride at the end of the parking lot Wink
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