Jason
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« on: July 24, 2010, 09:03:39 AM »
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Long story short, I have a well built stage 3 car that's just a toy (I have other transportation), with a tune that's notorious for being poor. It doesn't matter what fuel I run (we have 100 unleaded and 110 leaded at the pumps here). You may have seen me post about this before because this car is a ping machine. CF's are always below 8, but the car likes to ping at high RPM tip in and mid-range in second gear. The NefMoto tool can't read the tune due to the tuner disabling the RequestUpload function, and I'm contemplating just starting fresh today and waving goodbye to a 5 year bad tuning saga. After all my read attempts these past few days, the car lost my lemmiwinks tweaks which I had made to correct most of the issues. Not a huge deal, but I think I've passed the point of irritation with this tune.
My intentions were to start fresh, but read the existing rom as a fallback in case I am not successful in this endeavor. I ordered a galletto setup for this, but I am impatient as the weather is cool here this weekend (In the 90's... last week it was 118 during the days and my garage didn't fall below 100 until about 2am)
I have one other option and that's swapping the smd 29F800BB with another that has my old GIAC-X flash. Obviously this is somewhat risky, but would allow me to keep the old tune, and then overwrite the flash I don't care about.
So, my question is - should I wait, or should I take the plunge? I have spent quite a bit of time reading up on getting a baseline tune established, and it seems many here have had good success.
Thoughts? Flames?
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ArgDub
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« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2010, 04:04:02 PM »
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Considering that many tuners do it that way, I don't think it is that risky. It depends on the tools you have and your experience. But you will need a programmer if you want to read it after it is removed.
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Jason
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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2010, 04:10:31 PM »
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I do have experience swapping smd's but there is always the risk of lifting a pad or damaging a trace. I have sneezed before and ruined things... lol.
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ArgDub
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« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2010, 06:51:07 PM »
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That is why I said experiance rather than skill. Getting skilled involves screwing up things.. lol
Being it a stage 3, you aren't running stock injectors nor maf, right?
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Jason
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2010, 06:54:52 PM »
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Correct... I've got an 85mm hitachi maf, and 440's. Which is obviously going to make getting the maf and injectors scaled properly a pain. I don't have a stock hitachi housing, and who knows where the stock injectors are... I can't even find my spare ECU's at this point so I am assuming they are in the same missing box.
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Jason
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2010, 12:35:01 PM »
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Oh boy. So, I took the ECU out this morning and when I removed the eeprom, I noticed two of the pads were missing from the board. I guess I'm not surprised since this board had had a few eeproms on it over the years.
I melted down the glob of Lowmelt and found them. I scraped the solder mask away from their traces, laid the pad down, hit it with some flux, and was able to solder the pad to the traces.
At this point I decided this was the last time this eeprom would be swapped, and since the whole point of this operation was to keep my old tune as a backup, I elected to install the old eeprom so I not only have a backup, but so that I can help Tony test his alternate read methods.
I successfully soldered the old eeprom back on, and it works, despite being ugly. I also ordered some ChipQuik as it melts at 138 degrees instead of 300, so it should be much gentler on any future work.
But that means I need to either buy another ECU or try to figure out where the heck my spares are.
Edit: On the up side, last night I figured out how to fix the checksum on the 2001.5 Audi S4 - 8D0907551M - 0261207143 - 0002.bin that tony posted, so as soon as I have a good flashable ECU, I will be in business.
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Tony@NefMoto
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2001.5 Audi S4 Stage 3
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2010, 11:46:27 PM »
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I will see if I can put together a special release for you to test out the security bypass ECU reading. It will be a few days though.
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2010, 12:29:22 PM »
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I'm sorry, but doesn't boot mode completely bypass whatever security options the "tuner" might have set?
Why not just read it out in boot mode?
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Jason
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« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2010, 12:42:55 PM »
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I'm sorry, but doesn't boot mode completely bypass whatever security options the "tuner" might have set?
Why not just read it out in boot mode?
I need a cable... I ordered it but as you know most of that stuff takes about 300 days to show up from China :p |
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Tony@NefMoto
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2010, 03:20:42 PM »
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You can do it in boot mode of course. But removing the ECU from the car and pulling the boot pin low is a pain.
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Jason
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« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2010, 03:22:24 PM »
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You can do it in boot mode of course. But removing the ECU from the car and pulling the boot pin low is a pain.
So I can use your software in boot mode? |
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Tony@NefMoto
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« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2010, 03:24:05 PM »
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Nope. Boot mode is a completely different protocol, and it requires opening up the ECU and applying a ground wire to the ECU circuit board.
I'm working on a test release for you Jason, to see if my back door reading method will work for you.
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Jason
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2010, 03:25:28 PM »
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Nope. Boot mode is a completely different protocol, and it requires opening up the ECU and applying a ground wire to the ECU circuit board.
I'm working on a test release for you Jason, to see if my back door reading method will work for you.
Ok, that's what I thought... but I just wanted to make sure so I didn't have to leave work early to go try it since the ECU is just hanging there  |
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Jason
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« Reply #13 on: August 04, 2010, 09:53:30 PM »
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Tonight has been a good night. I successfully read the current tune in boot mode. I ended up soldering a little 3 pin Molex PC fan pin strip header to the ECU (with a little pigtail so I can extend it outside the housing if I want), and then made a little extension cord to plug into it with a switch so that I could boot mode from within the car. Ghetto, but it works I then threw together a baseline tune to account for my big maf and injectors, fired up the NefMoto flasher, and flashed the new ROM in about 2 minutes. I turned the key... and she started and drove around the block! So that means my checksumming works right! I then read the file back out of the ECU, and compared it to the original - it was identical. Yay! I then flashed the old tune back, and the car started up. I then tried to read that old tune, and couldn't, so now I know I successfully accomplished my "failsafe" objective. Now, the dirty work lies ahead. I have to hook the N75 back up (I'm running an MBC) so I can start working on properly scaling the maf/injectors. I will still run the MBC once I start boost tuning, simply because the driveability is much improved with the MBC - it spools sooner and the car just *feels* better. All in all, thanks for all your hard work Tony! |
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Jason
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Breaks everything!
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« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2010, 07:45:57 AM »
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Minor update:
My wideband is kaput so I am in the market for a new wideband. Digging around in my garage I found a NIB stock hitachi MAF, so I will be swapping that in, along with my stock injectors, and then hopefully picking up a new wideband setup this week, so I can get some good baseline logs so that I can properly scale the big maf and then get the big injectors setup. This way I am not tuning them in relation to each other, so my load should be pretty accurate. I will also be swapping the sensor element over, so the electronics will be the same and I won't be comparing a new vs old sensor in an stock vs big housing.
I think I am going to tune off the N75 for now, and then replace it with the MBC, simply because the MBC dramatically improves spooling. Hopefully I will have some results next week.
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