Set TABGBTS to 980 , then BTS will trigger when modelled EGT is above that value
there is also TKATBTS , set this to the same. BTS will also trigger to protect the cat.
980C is way too late. You realistically never want to exceed 1000C pre-turbo.
I accept this. The problem is that the tabgbts is 730 celsius from the beginning. So I will always run from the BTS table with full throttle. I will check the EGT modell parameters. I don't know what could be the difference between the current model and the real EGT.
730C is not on all the time, it will be on from only longer WOT runs where you need it... log your actual tabgm and so on.
There's a lot of basics missing here, a lot of suggestions without EVER asking "why?" or "how?".
An engine's ability to heat it's cylinders is directly proportional to the amount of flow through the engine. Until you get to very rich mixtures that help to cool.
That means that at 3500 RPM you are almost never going to actually have EGT problems vs. for example 7000 RPM. This is because the engine cylinders have twice as much time to cool between two power strokes, and there is also (very roughly, depends on curve) half as much fuel burned. So literally, as your RPM's go up your EGT gain increases very quickly, and as RPM's are lower it decreases quickly.
The same idea should be applied to BTS tuning. Tune it so that at lower RPM's it only actually kicks in if there is a bunch of timing retard. This can be controlled with the base delta and KFFDLBTS.
Other than that with normal fuel lambts should be very close to output from LAMFA throughout the range. Actually as EGT heats up, backpressure of exhaust gas also increases and there is more timing pull, so having KFFDLBTS at reasonable values will richen up your mixture as the engine gets hotter.
If you want some additional safety you can set FBSTABGM to be a little more aggressive after a certain temperature. For example 1.01-1.02 at 900C calculated and 1.0 below that.
Not using BTS at all or not using KFFDLBTS is a great way to melt the engine on part throttle on the autobahn when you are going fast, but you are not triggering LAMFA and running lambda 1 with a bunch of boost. Or if you get some bad fuel.
To do these things correctly at least some knowledge about the internal combustion engine process is required. I've seen outright ridiculous "advice" posted in this thread, which really makes me scratch my head...