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Author Topic: Knock sensor on stroker  (Read 4472 times)
kacperoooni
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« on: August 18, 2019, 05:27:18 AM »

Hi,
Is it needed to recalibrate knock sensors on 1.8t/2.7t after making it strokers to 2.0t and 3.0t? If yes which maps should I adjust, at least in the beginning
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Blazius
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« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2019, 06:09:09 AM »

Well first off all you'd need to fix up KUMSRL and other related maps which in turns messes up a whole load of other modules so you gonna need to fix them up aswell.
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prj
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« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2019, 04:12:47 AM »

Hi,
Is it needed to recalibrate knock sensors on 1.8t/2.7t after making it strokers to 2.0t and 3.0t? If yes which maps should I adjust, at least in the beginning

No.
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quattro85
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2020, 11:25:51 AM »

Why "No"?

Just started to look at maps of my A3 1.8TFSI convertible, which I stroked to 2.0.
First thing I noticed when I drove it with stock 1.8 tune - there is more torque low down even compared to stock 2.0TFSI which is a little strange.

I decide to copy KFZWx and KFZWOPx from 2.0 file, but it was strange for me that in my 1.8 file there was low-mid rpm zones with more advanced timing compared to those in 2.0 file. It is quite contra intuitive for me but it was obvious Maybe this is part of the reason that I can feel this stroker more torquer than stock 2.0. Another thing is that 1.8 request more load before 2000rpm, because of the smaller displacement.

Another thing I've noticed - I think KFMIOP/KFMIRL seems that wasn't been calibrated @ high load ranges (not used in stock tune). Nevertheless 2.0 file looks much better even in those ranges.

As for the knock control - sure there is quite a difference there and I find it to be normal. We use same length rods with longer stroke (for EA888 difference between 1.8 and 2.0 is only stroke) and in my opinion this changes will make a difference in normal noise frequencies.

That's why I really wonder why it is not needed to recalibrate knock control when stroking those engines.

Kind Regards,
Chris
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nyet
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2020, 03:13:34 PM »

this changes will make a difference in normal noise frequencies.

There is very little you can do in the ECU to compensate for that, short of flat out numbing KR, which you shoudn't do w/o a dyno, det cans, and a lot of experience with knock.
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
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Blazius
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2020, 04:04:57 PM »

Some people in the Big turbo 1.8t FB group claim their ME 7.5 ECU did not run very well with strokers apparently ignition and knock sensor causing issues and all sorts of stuff... I call bullshit on that, since there have been cases on this forum where people run me7.5 on strokers fine if you adjust all the stuff needed.

There are still "loads" of companies that just flash off the internet files, or flash one file made for a car to multiple ones..
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quattro85
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« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2020, 11:27:08 PM »

There is very little you can do in the ECU to compensate for that, short of flat out numbing KR, which you shoudn't do w/o a dyno, det cans, and a lot of experience with knock.

Re-thinking the whole thing again I should admit maybe you are completely right! But when we speak for stroker build with tuning parts because there is no such engine left the factory (ME7 2.0T & 3.0TT).
However in my case I used totally stock parts from an engine that was produced like a 2.0T engine. So I think it will not be too wrong just to copy from 2.0 file whole KR structure into my file.

What I've noticed looking @ two transverse 2.0T files (different cars - GOLF Vs Skoda Ocatavia, different engine codes) whole KR structure is the same. Comparing it to 2.0T file from longitudinal application (A4 B8) it is quite different and sure there is different kind of noises because of transmission at least.

This makes me think that maybe I can get this shortcut and modify KR structure without det cans and dyno. Let's hope I'm not totally wrong in this Wink
Right now I have flat 0 CRs with stock tune, despite load calculation is off because of 11% increased displacement.

Kind Regards,
Chris
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_nameless
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2020, 04:09:03 AM »

Try tuning the cars first. Before gutting kr
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nyet
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2020, 08:56:11 AM »

Try tuning the cars first. Before gutting kr

x10000
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ME7.1 tuning guide (READ FIRST)
ECUx Plot
ME7Sum checksum checker/corrrector for ME7.x

Please do not ask me for tunes. I'm here to help people make their own.

Do not PM me technical questions! Please, ask all questions on the forums! Doing so will ensure the next person with the same issue gets the opportunity to learn from your experience.
quattro85
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« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2020, 02:26:17 PM »

Try tuning the cars first. Before gutting kr

And here comes another problem - what tool to use.
For my previous Med17.5 car (2012 A3 8p 1.4TFSI) I bought a Russian tool PCMflash which is perfect for DIY, because it is not prohibitively expensive.
However in "virtually read" files (based on SGO originals) there is no file for my ECU number 8P7 907 115 H 0030.
However there is a file for 8P7 907 115 K 0030, and looking at pictures in internet it seems both ECUs share the same hardware number 8P0 907 115 Q and both part numbers are used on CDAA 1.8TFSI engines.
Now I'm thinking to crossflash my ECU with K lettered ago with ODIS-E, and after that to work on K file and finaly use PCMflash to write it to the car.
What do you think - should I try this plan, or to search for another solution?
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quattro85
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« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2020, 01:08:17 PM »

So it seems I'll have serious problem to write my ECU on a budget, so I decide to move this discussion to a new tread
http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=18169.0title=
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