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Author Topic: Zwout following zwsol  (Read 10335 times)
golfputtputt
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« on: September 27, 2019, 08:32:12 AM »

I can't seem to get my zwout to part ways with zwsol at idle and low load part throttle. Zwsol is also demanding -8 degrees at idle, so, unless I change min ignition time to force zwout, it's idling ATDC.

I've been reading for months and trying things with ARMD, IRL, IOP, ZWOP. I've looked at ZUE and MDZW and traced it back but I can't seem to find where zwsol values come from. Also tried obvious things that did not work like KFMRES/K and KFZW/2
« Last Edit: September 27, 2019, 08:43:24 AM by golfputtputt » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2019, 09:34:51 AM »

None of that makes sense, you shouldn't be modifying any of those to do what you want. If idle timing is not doing what you expect, you should be restoring more things to stock until it is fixed, not modifying them further from stock.

Otherwise, it is a hw problem. I think your philosophy here is completely backwards.
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golfputtputt
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« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2019, 10:23:38 AM »

Did that as well. Flashed stock file only changes being MLHFM, TVUB, KRKTE.
For 550cc ev14 and 3” maf.

Zwout ended up being around 7 degrees +-5-10 degrees or so.

Came back to the car a few days later, logged, back down to -8 degrees.
This is all after pressure testing to 50 psi, every gasket and hose being fresh. Turbocharger being RTV’ed shut. Individually tested all coilpacks and sparkplugs on bench. Then replaced all of them for the hell of it any way. Twice. I replaced every sensor with genuine oem audi/vw. Twice, just for the hell of it. I have no DTC’s or CEL’s. No soft codes or hard codes.
I’ve called a dozen “pro” tuners locally. All of them either only do box tunes or said they werent interested.
 The only other thing to do is throw the motor in the trash.

Any ideas?
« Last Edit: September 27, 2019, 10:25:42 AM by golfputtputt » Logged
nyet
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« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2019, 10:41:27 AM »

Did that as well. Flashed stock file only changes being MLHFM, TVUB, KRKTE.
For 550cc ev14 and 3” maf.

Zwout ended up being around 7 degrees +-5-10 degrees or so.

Came back to the car a few days later, logged, back down to -8 degrees.

That points to a physical issue that fundamentally can't be solved by modifying maps *unless you are doing that for diagnosis to narrow down the root mechanical/electrical cause*.

You're going to have to either diagnose it the old fashioned way (replacing parts) which it looks like you've already done, or the hard way, which is finding ram locations and diagnosing via logging the entire ignition path.

Note that most mechanics do not debug mechanical/electrical issues that way, but it may be your only choice.
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golfputtputt
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« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2019, 10:57:03 AM »

Ok see you in many months. Gotta learn IDA Pro.
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BlackT
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« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2019, 12:53:40 PM »

Did you turn off CAT heating?
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« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2019, 02:28:05 PM »

I was going to say, is this something expected in during warmup or some torque reserve condition?

Perhaps you have a bad clutch switch or ac compressor sensor, or maybe an o2 heating issue.

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golfputtputt
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« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2019, 03:50:14 PM »

I currently possess and have put into the car a total of 13 clutch switches. Brand new and otherwise. Broken apart and inspected. Plus, i’ve logged clutch condition. It’s recognizing the switch. zwout follows zwsol at all times at idle. Well past cat heating. But yes FKHABMN is 0 and LAKH (lambda influence from catalysts heating) is neutralized.

Possibly o2 heating issue? I have no idea what to look for in data to quantify that. I’ve put 5 oem Wideband o2 sensors in. All exhibit the same behavior. Same with rear o2’s.

All kfmres/k/nl/kh/sta maps are oem. But at one point, i did flatten them all to the same value to try and see if that changed things. It got worse. Then when i went back to stock, it shot back to 5 deg BTDC. It did not stay that way. Same thing. came back a week later, back down to -8.


Just took a look at the oldest log i possess. The car, at that time had no emissions equipment and a cone filter. All else being OEM. -5 DEGREES IDLE....ATDC. It was idling ATDC on a factory file.

I hate this fucking car.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2019, 04:08:04 PM by golfputtputt » Logged
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« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2019, 04:48:17 PM »

Did you try to put 0 in CWKONABG
See if there is any change. If you already didn't try that
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golfputtputt
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« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2019, 04:57:15 PM »

It has been changed to 0 for some time.
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nyet
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« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2019, 06:05:36 PM »

Just took a look at the oldest log i possess. The car, at that time had no emissions equipment and a cone filter. All else being OEM. -5 DEGREES IDLE....ATDC. It was idling ATDC on a factory file.

I hate this fucking car.

Is it possible then that it is expected?
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golfputtputt
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« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2019, 06:32:05 PM »

It is but many people, including yourself have said aim to idle the car at 5 degrees btdc and 20-30% load.

aside from that, zwout does not follow zwgru in the idle regions via kfzw, i currently have no control over idle ignition timing.

On top of that, it swings alot. +-5-7 degrees. I have no clue if this is normal based on sampling individual cylinders or what.

Also, the idle rpm is surging which is the real issue. I’m trying to track down whats responsible for that.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2019, 06:40:19 PM by golfputtputt » Logged
fknbrkn
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« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2019, 10:50:06 PM »

Timing is not a problem
Imo it's a result of compensation excessive torque at idle
Is it stock flywheel installed?
Is the AC turned on (or ecu thinks it is)
Also check power steering sensor, AC high pressure sensor etc
30% load and 800rpm idle it's too high for me
 20-25% should be fine
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golfputtputt
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« Reply #13 on: September 27, 2019, 11:16:01 PM »

Timing is not a problem
Imo it's a result of compensation excessive torque at idle
Is it stock flywheel installed?
Is the AC turned on (or ecu thinks it is)
Also check power steering sensor, AC high pressure sensor etc
30% load and 800rpm idle it's too high for me
 20-25% should be fine

That is an idea i have considered but have not gone down that path yet.
Flywheel is single mass g60. Steel, heavy, but not as heavy as a dual mass. I think its 25 lbs. aprox 3-5 lbs lighter. Give or take.

Perhaps, because the engine is a 1.9L, the 1.8 maps are expecting less actual torque at idle...? I’d have figured changing to the rs4 values would solve this. I converted to rs4 irl, iop, wop. It did not solve.

AC is off via button, i have not logged the variable yet. I will see if i have it. There is a definitive change in feel of drive when i turn the AC on. Otherwise, i have not logged any AC Based data.

Power steering pressure sensor was actually removed. I installed a braided pressure line kit that did not have a provision for it. I BELIEVE, that my earliest data logged did indeed have the oem sensor in place at the time. Does anyone know what module is responsible for receiving data from this sensor?
« Last Edit: September 27, 2019, 11:20:24 PM by golfputtputt » Logged
golfputtputt
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« Reply #14 on: September 28, 2019, 07:52:26 AM »

Is there a torque reserve maps for power steering? Is it any more complicated than that? Is there a whole module devoted to PS?

How to people tune for a complete power steering delete? Compensation for the lack of parasitic loss.
« Last Edit: September 28, 2019, 07:54:45 AM by golfputtputt » Logged
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