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Author Topic: Help! Purchased 2017 Audi A4 2.0L Progressiv at auction, and engine won't start!  (Read 7160 times)
quicksilver545
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Hi everyone, I apologize in advance for my naivety..

I purchased a 2017 Audi A4 at auction recently, as it seemed like a great deal. The auction states that the car can be started, and run at idle, but that there are transmission issues. I sourced a good, used transmission, for replacement, and had the car towed to a transmission shop. However, the shop owner tells me that he cannot get the vehicle started to even to run diagnostics on the transmission. I called Audi, and they report that the car had previously been stolen, and of course want a ridiculous amount of money to repair everything, so I really want to avoid the dealership..

After doing some digging, I see that the vehicle has an Immobilizer system on it, and I'm fairly certain that this is what is preventing it from starting. Doing a little research, it looks like there are options to swap out the ECU, or "flash" the ECU with some equipment. I'm fairly tech savy, so could handle some small tech tasks, but would likely rather pay someone else to help if the cost is not too prohibitive. The vehicle is also located a few hours from my normal residence, which of course complicates things further.

My questions are:
1. Is there a way to bypass the immobilizer system fairly easily, just so the mechanic can at least run diagnostics on the transmission? And possibly, allow me to drive it back home so I can work on things further here?

2. What are the other solutions/more permanent fixes to correct this? Is my only option to go to the dealer? What sort of costs am I looking at?

Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate the assistance. Happy to provide more details if needed.
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fluke9
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First of all, if the car was indeed stolen, are you the rightful owner of it now ?
I would clearify the legal status first before even touching/working on this car.

There is no "press this button three times and put the car in reverse" procedure to bypass the immo.

If you are tech savy, borrow a tow truck and relocate the vehicle to work on it, who knows if the transmission really needs work at all if the car does not even run.

You just bought a project and need to learn how to "IMMO OFF" that vehicle or have someone do it for you.
After the engine is running find out what needs to be fixed, but not before.


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quicksilver545
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Thanks for the help, fluke9. I am the rightful owner as I purchased this vehicle through a copart auction, and have the ownership papers.

OK, sounds like the best option is to tow the vehicle back to my location, purchase the VCDS cable and software, and do some diagnostic work. Is there any way to know that it is indeed the immo that is preventing the car from starting? I have two FOBs, but I suppose they could not be coded correctly.

Here's what the dash shows:

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prj
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So put the fob against the area that it says, so it can read the RFID, if the batteries are flat.

This has nothing to do with this forum.
This has nothing to do with IMMO OFF on the ECU. The BCM won't even let you turn the ignition on.

If you have no keys at all for the car then go to the dealer, prove that you are rightful owner of the vehicle and order keys.
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BlackT
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So put the fob against the area that it says, so it can read the RFID, if the batteries are flat.

This has nothing to do with this forum.
This has nothing to do with IMMO OFF on the ECU. The BCM won't even let you turn the ignition on.

If you have no keys at all for the car then go to the dealer, prove that you are rightful owner of the vehicle and order keys.
That wont work eather. My friend has been robed, and tieft stole him car keys. He went to audi dealer for new keys, they give him the key. But it can only unlock the car, it can'not unlock the sterring wheel or start the car, they say he must tow the car to audi dealer so they can program new key
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fluke9
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That wont work eather. My friend has been robed, and tieft stole him car keys. He went to audi dealer for new keys, they give him the key. But it can only unlock the car, it can'not unlock the sterring wheel or start the car, they say he must tow the car to audi dealer so they can program new key

I dont know VAG cars at all, but isnt there some kind of code card you get with the car (or can get if you proof ownership) ?
Atleast for most italian cars it works this way, you also get unprogrammed keys which match mechanically if you order them,
but with the code on the codecard you can program the keys to the BCM or IMMO.
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quicksilver545
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So put the fob against the area that it says, so it can read the RFID, if the batteries are flat.

This has nothing to do with this forum.
This has nothing to do with IMMO OFF on the ECU. The BCM won't even let you turn the ignition on.

If you have no keys at all for the car then go to the dealer, prove that you are rightful owner of the vehicle and order keys.

I do have two keys with the vehicle, but the mechanic reported that he couldn't get it to start. I suppose it's possible that the batteries on the FOBs are dead, though I doubt it. He did report that the car battery was completely flat, and charged it up a bit. Perhaps it wasn't charged up enough to recognize the RFID.

It was my assumption that, after talking with the dealer, that possibly the thief had altered the ECM or cluster somehow, and that's why I was thinking this might be related to IMMO. The dealer was a complete jerk to me over the phone, so I am pretty hesitant to give them any business. I suppose I could have it towed to another dealer, as there is still free tow coverage associated with the dealer. I had hoped that the warranty would cover possibly transmission repairs, but the dealer claims that as it was stolen, they aren't responsible for those repairs.

I will tell the mechanic to try and put some new batteries in the FOB, and make sure the battery is fully charged. It's frustrating because the auction stated that the car could be started and put in idle, but so far have had no success with that.

Anyways, sorry if this is not a nefmoto issue, I was just confused where to go and have been screwed by dealers before. Will still end up getting the VCDS interface, as I like the possibility of doing some mods. Thanks again for your help everyone.
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quicksilver545
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I dont know VAG cars at all, but isnt there some kind of code card you get with the car (or can get if you proof ownership) ?
Atleast for most italian cars it works this way, you also get unprogrammed keys which match mechanically if you order them,
but with the code on the codecard you can program the keys to the BCM or IMMO.


I'm not sure. I'll ask the mechanic, but because it was an auction, not sure there is any code card there. I will try calling Audi to see if they have any additional info on a code card, though I doubt they will be helpful..
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prj
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Put the key where it's supposed to be put jfc. Once you have that message on the dash, the car won't start until you PHYSICALLY put the key against the correct place so the RFID can be read.

Read the owner's manual.

If someone really swapped the BCM you're fucked, go to dealer, order new BCM, have it programmed, then have the keys programmed to it.
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cherry
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Go to dealer and check if keys have correct VIN at all, every dealer has a key reader. Check which parts was changed, compare VIN. If everything in car is "destroyed" and nothing correct anymore you need to give car new identity via ODIS and then order BCM2, ecu, tcu, steering lock, keys...
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quicksilver545
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Thanks cherry.

I am pretty certain that the mechanic attempted to have the RFID read by putting it in the right spot, so I imagine it is going to be a more complicated repair... I looked in the manual and know where the RFID key needs to be placed, so I will make sure tomorrow he is putting it there. Next step is just going to be to tow the car back to me so I can start fiddling around.

I have been reading online, and it looks like with the right equipment (like the VCDS interface and VAG K+) it might be possible to reprogram keys? Obviously this is out of my element, but am just curious.

Also, if the parts are operational, do they all have to be replaced? Or is it possible to flash the cluster and ECM to get everything recognized.

Thanks for all your help
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prj
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It's exactly how you were told.

VCDS will get you absolutely nowhere with keys. But you can at least read VIN of modules and see what is happening.

ODIS with GEKO subscription only.

If keys are not for the car, you need to order new keys at dealer and have them programmed.
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quicksilver545
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Thanks for all the help, guys.

Update: So the guy at the transmission shop towed it to his Audi specialist, and they apparently worked on it for 8 hours to "reprogram the software". After that, the car started, and he checked it out, and told me that the "transmission is fine, mechanically car is perfect, you got an amazing deal". So that was somewhat relieving.

So I finally have the car, and it drives great. However, there are still issues with it:
1. Audi drive select doesn't work, and is telling me to take it to the dealer to fix.
2. MMI does not work, nor does bluetooth. Cannot enable bluetooth settings.
3. Telephone or wifi settings do not work.
4. Passenger side airbag light is on, and says there is a safety malfunction.
5. Hood release in the cabin is broken, and spare plastic part was in car. I managed to force it once, and get the hood open, but can't anymore.

So I am wondering what the best next steps are. I don't have a VAG-COM cable, but am thinking of purchasing so that I can see what codes come up. When I did get the vehicle, the rear seat was unseated, so I was wondering if they disabled or unplugged something in the bag. Checked the cables, and everything appears fine. Also had a quick look at the fuses, and don't see any unplugged.

Looking for some guidance as to what to do about airbag/MMI/nav. I am considering getting a cable, but would love it if someone in Edmonton could let me borrow one. Happy to provide additional info. I do see that there is a recall related to the airbags, so I suppose the airbag issue could be related to that. Wanting to avoid dealer as they have not been helpful so far, and wanted to replace the whole transmission for 15k...

TIA
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fluke9
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Update: So the guy at the transmission shop towed it to his Audi specialist, and they apparently worked on it for 8 hours to "reprogram the software". After that, the car started, and he checked it out, and told me that the "transmission is fine, mechanically car is perfect, you got an amazing deal". So that was somewhat relieving.
Like i said before "who knows if the transmission really needs work at all if the car does not even run.".

1. Audi drive select doesn't work, and is telling me to take it to the dealer to fix.
Might be a coding issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0cws5oAc4M

2. MMI does not work, nor does bluetooth. Cannot enable bluetooth settings.
3. Telephone or wifi settings do not work.
Both issues might be related, also look like a coding problem, i guess VW/AUDI forum guys can help you out there.
But hey, that's a minor thing ?

4. Passenger side airbag light is on, and says there is a safety malfunction.

Is the passenger side airbag disabled to use a childseat on it ? (can be done either with a setting or a key, depending on the car)
Next step here would be to read fault codes from the airbag ecu and see whats the problem.
Might be the occupancy sensor or some loose connector under the seat. Some cars had bad connectors.

5. Hood release in the cabin is broken, and spare plastic part was in car. I managed to force it once, and get the hood open, but can't anymore.
Minor mechanical issue, you can fix that.

So I am wondering what the best next steps are. I don't have a VAG-COM cable, but am thinking of purchasing so that I can see what codes come up. When I did get the vehicle, the rear seat was unseated, so I was wondering if they disabled or unplugged something in the bag. Checked the cables, and everything appears fine. Also had a quick look at the fuses, and don't see any unplugged.
Airbag related faults need to be cleared with a tester, they do not automatically clear.

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quicksilver545
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Thanks for your advice, fluke9. I think I will purchase the Rosstech VCDS cable (thought it is a bit expensive).

Do most people on here use the official cable from Rosstech, or purchase a discount cable? I see that there is a forum for other cables that work, so am naturally wondering if I can save some money and use one of those. Will that cable work with the VCDS system, and for coding? Will it work to do all the things in the video you linked, if I follow the steps?

Thanks
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