I'm torn between the non-Bosch 710n @55 each, finding some nos borscht made 710ns @80+ each, and or getting forge 007s for $42 each. I keep seeing that the non-Bosch 710ns aren't great.
And to keep on egts, the rs6 boards convert normal egts into wide and right since the actual probe is the same type of thermocouple. Obviously plus adjusting the ECU parameters.
Don't use fake stuff when it comes to valves, maf's and injectors....well, anything to do with air n fuel or just on your car really, it never ends well for those I've seen "take a chance"! I think I paid about £60 for my gen 710P a few years back.
Speaking of which, the 710N's were replaced with 710P's years ago if you are struggling to find new ones, just use a genuine one of those, also, if you do try 007's and N's/P's you'll need to change your mapping to suit for best results.
As an example - I bought a car from a "friend" a few years back, felt nice and quick on test drive but slow when I bought it off him. Did some checks and he'd removed the 007 and replaced it for an old N for his own 1.8T (tosser), these are same day log plot's for reference on my 1.8T-
Custom Code with the 007 it was supoposed to be, he'd replaced with the knackered old N when I went through everything - then I added the P, logged, went to stock map and made a couple of base maps. So I'm sure the CC map lost about 30hp/lb/ft with the change.
AUQ Comparison tq by
Rick B, on Flickr