everything is so wrong i dont know where to start lol. the factory charge pressure sensor so anything over 22 psi youll have no closed loop boost control unless you do the 5120 and install a larger charge pressure sensor. odds are you fucked up your load scaling and its suck at a lower load row hence the lower boost. lower load cells have more advanced ignition timing so thats why the car feels strong with less boost. this is just a guess based off the extreemly limited info you provided. if you want actual help upload me7logger csv of a 3rd gear pull and ill have a look. also good luck trying to get 26 psi on a stock turbo and wastegate. back pressure in the exhaust manifold is so high it will surly blow the gate open.

I'll start with my original tune and build up in small increments. I was under the impression that the car could boost over 22 psi as I've read that people are "spiking" a lot higher. I'm assuming that you can't physically go over 22 psi without the hack. I was under the impression that you could, but it just wouldn't have full control over the boost via the ECU. Is it likely that people are asking for a 22 psi spike and the reason they are seeing 25, 27 etc is just overboost?

Edit. My laptop broke a while back which is why I have been absent for so long. I rooted a netbook out of my cupboard and it has a dead l-ion battery so I wont be able to do any logs until it arrives. I just took a look at the file I took off my car before re-flashing which was a slightly different revision of the one I was using as a base. It turns out that the tune I was running on the car had a maximum boost request of 16 psi tapering to 10 at redline. So according to my boost gauge it's boosting a few psi higher than I was requesting, so it would explain why it wasn't happy with the last map I tried with stupid high figures.

I have a 3" decat downpipe and a 2.25" centre silencer style backbox with a centre res delete pipe and a ported manifold so the exhaust system is pretty free flowing, healthy 710p DV and an uprated silicone tip, as well as the front mount which has 2" piping out of the turbo stepping up to 2.5" the rest of the way. I made 2 tunes a while back, a "stage 1" and a "stage2" I was under the impression I was running the stage 2 because of what my recently installed boost gauge was showing, but thinking back, I put it back to stage 1 levels because at the time i didn't have a front mount.

My boost stayed the same after installing the front mount to be fair. I think it's because people go overkill with the core sizes that they lose some boost trying to fill a massive core and end up with a pressure drop. I'm stuck atm anyway, I just went out to put the old map back on the car and my flasher isn't working. After about 5 seconds of connecting it disconnects its self and comes up with a "no response from tester message"

I had this problem a few times when I flashed in the past and I always thought it was because my lead wasn't connected properly to the obd2 as if you push too hard the obd comes off it's mount and sinks into the console, but I think it's just an intermittent problem with the 032HN ecu's because It's a brand new lead and I've pulled my obd out of the housing so I can physically push on the back of it to get a good connection. Worked first time doing it earlier, this time tried about 20 times with no luck :/ Even tried different baud rates, just not my day today.

Thanks nyet. I won't be going over the limit then. Hopefully I can get the flash software to connect to the car tomorrow and put things back to a safer level. What Marty said about ignition timing makes a lot of sense as I remember when I logged my tune a while back I was seeing cfs of 6. I put this down to having no front mount and at the time i was getting lower load levels than expected so I've since bought a new genuine maf.

Is it normal for the car to be boosting a few psi higher than requested by ldrxn? Or is this something to do with my boost pid/cheap ebay boost gauge? Hopefully I'll have some logs next week and take out some of this guess work. I will say one thing though. It's so much faster with a peak boost of 16 psi as opposed to the tune with 18-20

LDRXN(Maximum Specified Load) I'm just going off what I read on the wiki. LDRXN x10 +300 - atmospheric pressure. Eg when I request a value of 140 I'm actually requesting 0.7 bar or 10.1526 psi. Or is that not correct?

I spent months reading through the wiki and the stage 1 community thread before even attempting to mess with the car as I didn't want to damage anything or brick my ecu. I'm by no means an expert but I thought I at least had a basic understanding of things. Are you saying that LDRXN doesn't equate to an exact psi, but is only used as a rough guide to get you to a close figure, which then must be fine tuned using other methods? Is that why LDRXN can not be used solely to reach a specific boost level? Or am I way off?

And the alignment of the stars haha. Thanks i should really re read the whole thing. A lot of it is double Dutch to me but I'm surprised I forgot about that part. I just remembered the ldrxn equation as I'm better with numbers.

I can definitely see why logging is so important on these ecus as it's all guess work without it. I remember when I first started tuning it and I did 4-5 revisions and sometimes it would be a monster and other times so so. And that was just small changes to ldrxn. I think I'll hold off on the tweaking until I get my logging capabilities back. My tune obviously needs some work. The fact that it's running better with less boost makes it pretty apparent i need to be checking out my idcs and cfs