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Author Topic: 2007 Audi Q7 4.2FSI...i want to clone ECU  (Read 6653 times)
prj
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« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2022, 12:55:17 PM »

If the Bosch part number is the same, then it will.
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AudiMoneyPit
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« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2022, 06:49:00 AM »

If the Bosch part number is the same, then it will.

Right on.

Thanks man. I'm anxious to learn about this whole process...

This is for my girlfriend's car as stated, but I'm sure much of this I am learning will make it easier for me to get a handle on how to do this on other vehicles

I have an '08 Chevy Cobalt SS for my daily driver, and it has an E69 PCM...it's tuned already, but I would like to use the knowledge gained from messing with my girlfriend's Audi's ECU and apply it to my own car.

Think I will start a separate thread on that in order to keep this thread on topic.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2022, 07:21:21 AM by AudiMoneyPit » Logged
AudiMoneyPit
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« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2022, 06:52:43 AM »

I don't think I mentioned, but I do have a Ross-tech cable and VCDS..I've had it and been using it since we first got the Q7 in 2019.

Just FYI.

Oh, BTW..once the ECU is cloned onto the donor ECU, will I need to perform any adaptations or any coding I will need to do with VCDS?

I don't think I asked about that yet(?)
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AudiMoneyPit
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« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2022, 02:22:31 PM »

OK so I got the donor ECU in..it still has the ECU connectors on it, and just enough wire left on them such that I could make a bench harness if I want to later (bonus!)

I want to test the T35/60 pin to see if it has continuity to anything, to verify whether or not the original ECU should or should not. The fact that the original ECUs T35/60 pin has no continuity to anything has been bothering me..so I will hopefully find out today or tomorrow if I run out of time today.

About to bitch the security bolts so I can take them out with a screwdriver...wish me luck lol
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« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2022, 02:28:14 PM »

BTW ..I got the BDM frame in, I got the BDM100 in, I was able to solder the BDM Frame Bosch Adapter together (the one with the 10pin header connector), I got a laptop and wiped it out with a fresh install of windows (32 bit, quadrupled the RAm because it was slow AF, and bought a fresh battery because the original was 100% gone not charging), then I install CMD, I have Xprog as well.

So I have much of what I need to do this...the extractor screws never got here from the UK..I will probably just open it without them since my girlfriend's car has been down so long, and her son wants his car he got for his bday back lol..

I need to get this done so I can move forward with replacing the HPFP if it needs it.
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prj
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« Reply #20 on: April 07, 2022, 05:06:10 AM »

If you turn the BDM header 180 degrees, then you will instantly fry the BDM port.
So make sure you don't make that mistake.
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« Reply #21 on: April 07, 2022, 06:31:20 AM »

If you turn the BDM header 180 degrees, then you will instantly fry the BDM port.
So make sure you don't make that mistake.

The connections both have a little squarish notch so it only goes one way...hopefully the notch is on the right side lol..because I already put it all together yesterday.

Green light doesn't come on on the BDM100...

I can hear the relay inside click when I plug the USB into the laptop, but when I click "ON"..no click and no green light.

When I first got it, the LED would flash very briefly when plugged in. Maybe the update to v1255 I didn't do properly?

Or maybe I need to click the executable with the "1" and then "2"?

I get the "12Vcc power error communication error" when I click "ON"..

I tried with and without the power supply plugged into the BDM.

Shit
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prj
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« Reply #22 on: April 07, 2022, 07:36:49 AM »

The level of support you get is always proportional to the cost of the tool.
If you buy cheap shit from aliexpress you are obviously on your own.
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AudiMoneyPit
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« Reply #23 on: April 07, 2022, 07:42:18 AM »

OK so I just did some continuity tests.

The BDM Frame adapter circuit board :

Verified that there is no unwanted continuity between separate pins on board (pogo pin to pogo pin and/or header pin to header pin)

Verified that pin 1 on BDM100 does make connection to pin 1 on BDM pads of ECU.

As for the header cable..

Verified each position on cable has continuity to the corresponding pin on the connector on the opposite end.

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AudiMoneyPit
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« Reply #24 on: April 07, 2022, 07:55:40 AM »

The level of support you get is always proportional to the cost of the tool.
If you buy cheap shit from aliexpress you are obviously on your own.

Yea I get that. Something something about money lol..
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« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2022, 10:21:37 AM »

So I got the green LED to flash briefly when I click "ON"

Laptop wasn't communicating with the BDM100 apparently..

So then I verified the proper pins get power and ground when it does flash.

After that it was just a matter of putting the ECU in the BDM Frame and connecting it, and I did a full read, and an individual read of the Ext flash, Mpc, Serial E2Prom, and then ran a checksum.

This is all on the donor ECU.. just in case. Plus if I fried one, better that I fry the donor rather than the original ECU
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« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2022, 02:23:52 PM »

Good news fellas!

I was able to back up the donor tune, then back up the original ECM's tune, then copy over the origin tune onto the donor ECU.

No more DTCs for short to ground, and the two MAFs appear to be actually working for the first time since we got the car in 2020(?) 2019(?)..

It also seems to have resolved various other issues like the rear trunk not automatically closing and fully latching, trans harsh downshifts, jerky throttle response, erratic idle, popping fuse S13 instantly upon starting(main issue), trans shift indicator not working, hard starts, and probably more stuff I haven't checked yet.

I'm super happy right now
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« Reply #27 on: April 07, 2022, 02:39:07 PM »

I really appreciate the help from everybody here!

Guess now I can add that to the list of services I can perform
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gumanov
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« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2022, 04:18:11 PM »

Hey, I read through this post about the issues you had with your Q7 (blowing fuse S13), and how you programmed a replacement ECU.

My friend has the same car with the exact same issue, so I was wondering if you can help me out.

I'd like to confirm that his ECU is the cause. You mentioned that pins T60/60 and T60/35 were behaving differently in regards to pin 35 having continuity to other pins, but pin 60 did not? Was this the case with the new replacement ECU as well? Or could this be used to confirm the fault?

His S13 fuse blows every time he cranks the engine, just as yours did. Unplugging N402 (fuel metering valve 2) fixes that, so the fuse doesn't blow. He replaced N402, which didn't fix the cause.

You also mentioned this damages the HPFP?

If we confirm his ECU is at fault, I will follow your solution and attempt to clone onto a donor ECU.

Thanks!
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