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k0mpresd
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« on: June 18, 2012, 09:18:06 PM »
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ive seen a few of these ecu's. the rear o2 wires short out due to bad downpipe placement, ect. the end result is an ecu that does not work the throttle. i have tried replacing the 30348 ic on the board but that did not seem to fix the problem. i checked the board over for other obvious faults but coudlnt find any. does anyone know where the fault lies?  |
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2012, 10:00:09 PM »
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is it a mosfet problem? would seem to make sense since looking at that diagram a mosfet controls the wb heater.
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DonSupreme
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« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2012, 08:20:12 AM »
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When the ecu is placed/running in the car does it throw any codes?
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robin
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2012, 12:06:39 PM »
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I've seen this happen a few times, usually the ECU will have a little scorch mark on the underside underneath the Eprom. Never bothered trying to fix, simply got another ECU and cloned it.
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masterj
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2012, 12:25:08 PM »
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Does ECU holds ~1000 rpm? Check group 60 and see if the throttle body adaptation will start. If not then say bye bye to your ecu and get a new one. I accidently touched wrong pin for boot mode and ecu responded with the dead accelerator pedal. Had to replace ecu since it was unrepairable (possibly damaged processor or other blocks). Just change ecu, it will be much cheapier and easier  |
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2012, 12:27:10 PM »
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but its not cheaper if i already have a few spare ecus i can ri parts off of. |
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masterj
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2012, 01:12:26 PM »
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but its not cheaper if i already have a few spare ecus i can ri parts off of. Well, start with the processor chip then try to resolder one by one every chip on board with chips from spare ecus... |
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2012, 01:13:23 PM »
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that sounds like too much work. there are lots of diodes, caps, resistors, ect that would be blown as well.
ive looked over and over this ecu though and im thinking the best would be to change the cpu.
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masterj
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« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2012, 01:20:17 PM »
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that sounds like too much work. there are lots of diodes, caps, resistors, ect that would be blown as well.
ive looked over and over this ecu though and im thinking the best would be to change the cpu.
Told ya I was thinking same thing but then bought another ecu :d |
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2012, 02:44:43 PM »
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eh, id still rather fix it. i hate replacing. id rather fix. |
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parts_hoarder
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« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2012, 08:43:06 PM »
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I had an ME7.1.1 from VW 24V with this exact problem and cause. I always figured the ECU was NFG, but a friend later cloned his ECU to that box and its been working ever since.
Try reflash before labotomy.
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2012, 08:50:41 PM »
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i dont see how that could be it as i ripped an apr chip from an ecu with these symptoms and soldered it to a new board and it worked fine.
its most definitely hardware.
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parts_hoarder
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« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2012, 11:00:19 PM »
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your probably right, hardware issue is what I suspected right away too. It's just strange how different software brought it back to life in my case.
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BDK
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« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2012, 03:02:29 PM »
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I had one where I added grounds externally to verify the ecm was in fact the problem. By the wiring diagram it looks like pins 33 and 36 which are grounds for the accelerator pedal assembly. I remember being able to see the effect in mvb 62. I still have the ecm somewhere, if I can find it I'll take a look but I would try to trace back those ground pins in the ecm. For what it's worth the car ran and drove fine with the hack extra grounds, but if it was my car I would want to fix it right.
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2012, 03:32:29 PM »
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so you ran a jumper from the throttle body > ground? is that what youre saying?
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