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k0mpresd
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« Reply #16 on: July 07, 2012, 01:13:34 PM »
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score. narrowing it down.  |
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nautica
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« Reply #17 on: July 07, 2012, 01:22:55 PM »
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #18 on: July 07, 2012, 01:35:13 PM »
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bueller?
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BDK
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« Reply #19 on: July 08, 2012, 08:03:36 AM »
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The ground is added by splicing in to pin 33 and/or 36 at the ecm, connect one or both of these to chassis ground. It is easiest to splice in a few inches back in the harness. Leave both sides of the existing wire intact and connected. These are the internal ecm grounds for the potentiometers for the accelerator pedal (g79 and g185) not the throttle body. On the car I had I could ground either pin or both and both potentiometers would work. I had a a4 jetta and used the ground in the plenum by the ecm. I'm not recommending this as a long term fix but it does seem to work. I don't know what side effects you may have but on a short test drive I didnt have any. You could alternatively add the ground anywhere in the circuit, or at the throttle pedal itself.
I found the ecm that I have that was damaged like this. I opened it and it is clearly burnt at the 30345 chip which I guess may be the wideband controller (according to one of your posts). The ecm is #06a906032LQ.
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nautica
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« Reply #20 on: July 08, 2012, 03:46:40 PM »
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The ground is added by splicing in to pin 33 and/or 36 at the ecm, connect one or both of these to chassis ground. It is easiest to splice in a few inches back in the harness. Leave both sides of the existing wire intact and connected. These are the internal ecm grounds for the potentiometers for the accelerator pedal (g79 and g185) not the throttle body. On the car I had I could ground either pin or both and both potentiometers would work. I had a a4 jetta and used the ground in the plenum by the ecm. I'm not recommending this as a long term fix but it does seem to work. I don't know what side effects you may have but on a short test drive I didnt have any. You could alternatively add the ground anywhere in the circuit, or at the throttle pedal itself.
I found the ecm that I have that was damaged like this. I opened it and it is clearly burnt at the 30345 chip which I guess may be the wideband controller (according to one of your posts). The ecm is #06a906032LQ.
It's the same thing that I showed on the photo, 32 pin it's a free ground pin. |
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vwaudiguy
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« Reply #21 on: July 09, 2012, 11:52:49 PM »
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I once had an ecu that surely seemed to have hardware faults (pedal potentiometer or throttle body I dont remember)..I was able to "repair" this by in fact flashing the ecu over with the same software it already had. I was shocked to say the least..It is worth a try. I am not saying this will work in most cases obviously, but I think It's worth a try!
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"If you have a chinese turbo, that you are worried is going to blow up when you floor it, then LOL."
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slklite
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« Reply #22 on: October 01, 2015, 04:58:14 AM »
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Hello guys, sorry to bring back this old thread, but did someone actualy find a way to fix this without any side effects ? I have a ibiza cupra ecu to repair with this problem. It is a rare ecu and is a pain to find, and most of the time, it is very expensive ... Thanks  |
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Placebo
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« Reply #23 on: July 29, 2016, 01:52:51 PM »
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Playing with an ECU that can't do a throttle body adaptation.
How hard is it to remove the circuit board from the metal case to inspect/see the circuit board backside?
Tried push n pulling to break the glue but seems stuck in the case pretty good and can't tell how the ECU pin-out connector is held in the case.
Maybe need more brute force to break the glue? Let me know if you know. Thx
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gman86
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« Reply #24 on: July 29, 2016, 04:18:54 PM »
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Playing with an ECU that can't do a throttle body adaptation.
How hard is it to remove the circuit board from the metal case to inspect/see the circuit board backside?
Tried push n pulling to break the glue but seems stuck in the case pretty good and can't tell how the ECU pin-out connector is held in the case.
Maybe need more brute force to break the glue? Let me know if you know. Thx
Plenty of heat round the sides (from the back) and pry with something flat but wide. a 2" wallpaper scraper is perfect for lifting boards off. Just make sure you get the scraper under the board or you'll ping up and shave a zillion surface mount devices off the board (don't ask me how I know). |
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Placebo
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« Reply #25 on: July 29, 2016, 04:26:21 PM »
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Thanks for the how to. This is already broken but hopefully I can get it free w/o more damage.
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pycmsp
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« Reply #26 on: August 05, 2016, 01:20:36 PM »
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most of the time we replace the ecu when the 02 sensor wires get damaged, love to see how you guys repair them
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10101011
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« Reply #27 on: August 10, 2016, 01:54:33 PM »
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Great info |
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Poor quality lingers long after the price is forgotten ....
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aef
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« Reply #28 on: March 19, 2021, 12:50:55 AM »
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hi, the yellow errors are the 5 errors to expect when checking on the bench. all other errors are ontop of that. the wiring of the engine is bad and killed two ecus of the owner. problem not found by now. does someone know which IC is killed here to produce theses errors? speculation right now: must have samething todo with the 5v output because sensors are affected? Think i'm going to measure the 5v on the 30343 when ecu is powered up. related topics: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=9500.15http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=65.0 |
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:38:56 AM by aef »
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