Use the compare option and see what was changed. Or if you do not have the capacity, start with a stock file. I mean you ask for help, but you are not helping yourself. The questions you ask have been answered several times. Put kflbts and lambda back to stock those are the only fueling changes made that would effect anything, again if you used the compare feature you would have answered your own questions. Furthermore, you ask for help how much help do you need?? Besides making a map pack from scratch for you, I included some calibrations I have used in the past for fuel economy (as you requested). Rule number 1 never flash anything until you understand why the individual made the changes they did. You need to start helping yourself more, making random changes is a waste of time, learn the acronyms, learn how to take a data log, god forbid and stop wasting forum space asking pointless questions. I'm not trying to be an asshole here, but notice I was the only one who offered any help?? Yeah, it's because none else has anything worth offering or the ones who do, do not like how you conduct yourself here and won't waste their time, don't shoot the messenger it's just how it is. For example I help with one post and you are expecting me to what exactly, be your on call confidante? Sorry I'm not interested.

Well sorry about my post, its not easy to learn by reading forums because there is different information from same things... i just dont understand why my TABGBTS in original file was -46.. and it was changed to -48, ive been searching and everywhere people has like 300c-900c? Why to lower tabgbts? That is exhaust temperature and seems i dont have any sensor so ecu calculates it? Not sure am i right? But why that is "-xx"

I tried change USR to like 0.080 and after that car idle was not ok.

I did take log from your map nameless and only bad thing was so low lambda (when car was at idle there was weird sound in motor) also responsive was not good.

Heres my log: https://datazap.me/u/a1pp4/log-1701279703?log=0&data=0

I have made some changes, left foot braking of and torque monitoring back to original and trying make some changes to KFMIRL, KFMIOP. Does car go any leaner if i change USR (original 0.442v) to like 0.300 and take lambda protections off?

Never been interested in leaning the motor, but why not disable closed loop and lean out the appropriate maps? I had a 1986 swift gti efi with no lambda sensor from factory   , so no closed loop, and an LC1 wideband I put in it showed rock steady 14.7 afr everywhere except high loads. All done with maps and no feedback.

Look at RLLRUN to disable closed loop , like I said, never done it before myself. Watch out, you might fuck up 3 way cats if you run lean all the time

No,leave high rl alone. Put perhaps 50, but its best to log your rl while cruising and use that as a maximum!  Get a damn wideband sensor and gauge from ebay, so you can dial in your lean mixture properly. Chrysler use to use18:1 in their leanburn system, before cat converters required oscillating around 14.7 for their operation. Be sure to log knock real good though. Remember, Im not a tuner, it just what I would do without help from a pro.

By help you mean do it for you? No

agreed, garbage, worthless motor. Not even worth learning to tune on.

You're not tuning jack shit, you haven't made a single log or even have a WBO2.

What you're doing is not tuning but playing theorycraft excel spreadsheets, which is even more of a waste of time than tuning this thing.