oldcarguy85
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« Reply #15 on: November 22, 2013, 11:13:25 AM »
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If you've done some deletes, maybe DTC codes aren't showing up because of that.
Thanks for the reply. I was wondering about this also. I only deleted rear O2, but i wouldn't be suprised if i did it wrong.. maybe someone can verify? The file is attached to first post. I will try setting all teh O2 delete stuff back tonight, although that might cause some other issues as i don't have the rear O2 in the car at all. |
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adam-
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« Reply #16 on: November 22, 2013, 02:42:57 PM »
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Rule out hardware and try a standard map?
Or mine?
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #17 on: November 22, 2013, 03:09:51 PM »
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Rule out hardware and try a standard map?
Or mine?
I would try a standard tune, but I don't think the problem will creep up with only 6-7lbs of boost. Maybe i should try a standard tune from an AWP? If you have a known good tune and can post it that would be awesome! |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #18 on: November 27, 2013, 09:37:00 AM »
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Ok just an update for anyone who might be following this ---
I did do a new boost leak test and found a ripped silicone coupler. Replaced that and car runs much better, but i'm basically back to where i started at the beginning of this thread. Tee problem is still there, the boost leak was just amplifying it. I did a VERY thorough boost leak test after i replaced the coupler on a hot engine and there are definitely no boost leaks now. I also tested with the DV out of the inlet tube and it did not leak at 25+psi or 0-10 psi.
I did flash stock AWP software and the problem was more subtle (running far less boost), but still there -- so i think i can rule out any software issues.
I did have some issues with this ECU a WHILE back that i forgot about. car was generally running strangely so i took ECU apart and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and car ran better.. however, i also fixed a shorted wire to the p/s pump at the same time, so i'm not sure the ECU actually had any issues. I ordered a new one to test with but i haven't gotten it yet. Maybe the ECU is just bad? that would be an easy fix at this point...
of course, now my clutch is slipping due to all this new-found power lol. So it might be hard to diagnose this until i get that fixed. We shall see. Any new advice is, as always, greatly appreciated.
I'll try to get some fresh logs today or tomorrow.
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userpike
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« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2013, 01:56:09 PM »
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of course, now my clutch is slipping due to all this new-found power lol.
the clutch slipping was going to happen, it was just a matter time. my stock clutch lasted 56,000 miles before coming apart at the track. After going through a stg2 and stg 2+ clutch kit from Spec, got about 30,000 miles on each.. I went with their stg3+ clutch disc, which has a double sprung hub with full face phosphor/brz compound and got just over 90,000 miles out of it using thier 525 ft/lb pressure plate and 7.5 lb flywheel. I'm on my second round of stg3+ clutch and expect another 90,000 miles out of it. just sayin.. its a good setup from Spec, the stg3+. I can't really compare it though because Spec is all I've ever used. I can say that it feels pretty much the same as a stock clutch AFTER break in. |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #20 on: November 27, 2013, 02:14:45 PM »
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the clutch slipping was going to happen, it was just a matter time. my stock clutch lasted 56,000 miles before coming apart at the track. After going through a stg2 and stg 2+ clutch kit from Spec, got about 30,000 miles on each.. I went with their stg3+ clutch disc, which has a double sprung hub with full face phosphor/brz compound and got just over 90,000 miles out of it using thier 525 ft/lb pressure plate and 7.5 lb flywheel. I'm on my second round of stg3+ clutch and expect another 90,000 miles out of it. just sayin.. its a good setup from Spec, the stg3+. I can't really compare it though because Spec is all I've ever used. I can say that it feels pretty much the same as a stock clutch AFTER break in.
thanks for the advice. I ran a spec clutch in my last GTI and it was great. However, i think i'm going to cheap out and go with a $300 ebay deal with a lightweight flywheel. probably the 6-puck version (If i keep teh car long enough to go witha 2871 or 3071 maybe this will hold up for a while). I may not keep this car too much longer (considering a Golf R), so I don't want to throw too much more money at it. Plus, i love it when cheap things work well — i believe the ebay clutch kits contain parts made by the same people as the big names. |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #21 on: December 05, 2013, 11:05:30 AM »
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attached are two logs. The second one (included screenshot -- sorry for the messy log view) might be the most telling. It shows throttle cut, presumably related to overshot on boost. I'm somehwat convinced there are two problems here. I think the overboosting and surging is one problem and the misfires/generally running lioke crap under partial boost is another. I think even when boost surges beyond request the ME7 should still run the car fine -- e.g. there shouldn't be misfires/etc.
I did notice a lean spike again during the overboost? is this normal? Also, I'm only at maybe 50% throttle but throttle plate angle is 100. Is this normal? Is a lambda 1 request normal at part throttle like this? I'd think it would want/need more fuel at these boost levels even at part throttle. maybe I'm wrong there.
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littco
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« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2013, 11:17:47 AM »
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attached are two logs. The second one (included screenshot -- sorry for the messy log view) might be the most telling. It shows throttle cut, presumably related to overshot on boost. I'm somehwat convinced there are two problems here. I think the overboosting and surging is one problem and the misfires/generally running lioke crap under partial boost is another. I think even when boost surges beyond request the ME7 should still run the car fine -- e.g. there shouldn't be misfires/etc.
I did notice a lean spike again during the overboost? is this normal? Also, I'm only at maybe 50% throttle but throttle plate angle is 100. Is this normal? Is a lambda 1 request normal at part throttle like this? I'd think it would want/need more fuel at these boost levels even at part throttle. maybe I'm wrong there.
Just from looking at those graphs.. The throttle cut is because it is over shooting boost, or at least the deviation is too great.. The misfires.. Well it running horribly lean in log 2 especially for 21 psi of boost! Maybe look into that.. Might solve the lean misfires. Are you running a stronger actuator on this at the moment? |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2013, 11:28:59 AM »
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Just from looking at those graphs.. The throttle cut is because it is over shooting boost, or at least the deviation is too great..
The misfires.. Well it running horribly lean in log 2 especially for 21 psi of boost! Maybe look into that.. Might solve the lean misfires.
Are you running a stronger actuator on this at the moment?
thanks for the help! I assumed the throttle cut was because of boost overshot. I'm not sure the history of the turbo ro actuator, but it's definetely suspicious. I actually have another thread open in the "wanted" section looking for a stock k03s actuator. I have a sneeking suspicion that this might be a chinese ko3s, but haven't actually looked yet, As far as the lean misfires go.... I'm not really clear why/how it's going lean? On a full throttle pull, the AFR is spot on at 12:1, so i THINK my fuel system is able to keep up. Does this point to some sort of hardware problem or is there something in the tune i should investigate? (i believe the tune is attached to first post if you want to take a look) |
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« Last Edit: December 05, 2013, 11:30:35 AM by oldcarguy85 »
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littco
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« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2013, 12:02:24 PM »
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thanks for the help! I assumed the throttle cut was because of boost overshot. I'm not sure the history of the turbo ro actuator, but it's definetely suspicious. I actually have another thread open in the "wanted" section looking for a stock k03s actuator. I have a sneeking suspicion that this might be a chinese ko3s, but haven't actually looked yet,
As far as the lean misfires go.... I'm not really clear why/how it's going lean? On a full throttle pull, the AFR is spot on at 12:1, so i THINK my fuel system is able to keep up. Does this point to some sort of hardware problem or is there something in the tune i should investigate? (i believe the tune is attached to first post if you want to take a look)
Its a bit of a mess this chart, but you'll see here that the boost actual is at the limit at 2550 and the requested at the point the throttle cuts is more than 300Mbar EDLDRP limit ( over boost) To get rid of the throttle cut you can increase this but then you'll not solving the problem! What you have to remember is that 2550 is the ecu limit for reading boost, so you could actually be at 30 psi! Not good and would explain a few things! Where abouts are you located as I have actuators. Also the WOT fueling is by LAMFA and hence why you get 12afr. Part throttle isn't and it needs sorting but I'm guessing your issue is the boost over shoot, to be over 2550 on partial isn't good for sure |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2013, 12:44:20 PM »
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well that's some very interesting info! I was always under the (obviously incorrect) impression that the map limit was 2550 OVER atmospheric! i can confirm that i never see of 21/22psi on the boost gauge though, so at least the boost levels are safe(ish).
I'm in the US -- Philly area. I'm guessing you are in the UK?
Assuming the actuator is, in fact, tighter than stock, if i just blanket lower KFLDRL for testing, would that be a reasonable way to quickly "adjust" for a tighter actuator (at least to cut out the overboost)? I realize the boost control wouldn't be ideal, but i think that would stop initial overboost at least.
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littco
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« Reply #26 on: December 05, 2013, 12:58:32 PM »
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well that's some very interesting info! I was always under the (obviously incorrect) impression that the map limit was 2550 OVER atmospheric! i can confirm that i never see of 21/22psi on the boost gauge though, so at least the boost levels are safe(ish).
I'm in the US -- Philly area. I'm guessing you are in the UK?
Assuming the actuator is, in fact, tighter than stock, if i just blanket lower KFLDRL for testing, would that be a reasonable way to quickly "adjust" for a tighter actuator (at least to cut out the overboost)? I realize the boost control wouldn't be ideal, but i think that would stop initial overboost at least.
2550 Mbar is 36 psi, you need to take off the atmospheric pressure ie around 14 to get the 22 psi cap.. ECU plot show 2250 which is uncorrected or actual PSI boost with the correction.. standard atmosphere is 1013, 2550-1013 = 1537 or 22.2psi... To test the actuator just unplug the N75.. that way you will get a base line boost pressure for the actuator by logging, it's worth doing a full run 2000-redline to ensure you are not getting boost creep as well, which isn't uncommon for the chinese turbos. |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2013, 01:43:14 PM »
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To test the actuator just unplug the N75.. that way you will get a base line boost pressure for the actuator by logging, it's worth doing a full run 2000-redline to ensure you are not getting boost creep as well, which isn't uncommon for the chinese turbos.
never even crossed my mind to do this... Thanks!! i will do it on my commute home (that's my usual 1hr long test session lol) and report back. |
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oldcarguy85
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« Reply #28 on: December 05, 2013, 03:39:00 PM »
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never even crossed my mind to do this... Thanks!! i will do it on my commute home (that's my usual 1hr long test session lol) and report back.
Ran exactly 5psi on the nose with n75 disconnected. I think that's correct for a factory actuator |
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userpike
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« Reply #29 on: December 05, 2013, 08:38:56 PM »
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Ran exactly 5psi on the nose with n75 disconnected. I think that's correct for a factory actuator
yep afaik. |
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